4k-c Turbo Build!

[Jaydnisevil]

Quite a bit done today and yesterday.

 

Getting annoyed at the detonation I decided to rip the dizzy out again (With intention of taking it to an ignition specialty store)

Well I kinda got drawn in to the whole "Hmm I wonder if I did this"

So out came the dizzy, pulled it apart. Decided not to bend the mechanical tabs any more in case they snapped.

 

But when I was re-assembling, I was looking at the Vac advance pod... One thing let to another and I ended up getting the angle-grinder and sawing the top off.

Pulled the spring out, filed the tabs off to allow the rod to go back into the pod. Cut off about 3-4 coils and wound the spring in on the other side. I lose some of the smaller pieces but that's about what you need to remove.

Got out ye old vacuum/pressure tester, put my thumb over the hole I had cut and applied 3,5 and then 10psi to it and sure enough the rod moved :)

Now there was a hole in the top of the pod, I considered soldering it closed, but was afraid that the heat would melt the diaphragm.

Luckily, on one of my impulse buys I bought a product called "Sugru" Its basically a play-doh that you can mold, is somewhat adhesive and turns solid a silicone in 24 hours.

Put a bit of hose in the hole to give it a good base, applied the putty and let set over night :)

When I went to attach it to the dizzy, I found that the base-plate did not rotate far enough to meet the arm. Some modification was needed in terms of filing to allow that further rotation.

In hindsight probably could have just left it and pulled the arm out to meet, wasn't necessary.

 

 

Dizzy back in, 0ish degrees base advance, hook everything else up and took her for a drive. Sure enough no more detonation :)

Was not making much power though so I bumped it to around 10degrees. Much better :) Still some fine tuning to do but it feels much better :)

 

The rest was just de-ghettoing, I removed the cable-ties holding my secondaries throttle shut and after much thinking I made a small mechanism that will hold her nice and tightly shut.

The wires go through the plate, held by that bolt clamp (Has a hole drilled through it) and is tensioned by the worm drive clamp.

 

 

 

Still need a Tee in 5/16 to hook up my PCV system.

 

Very short clip

[Jaydnisevil]

Reliability win

Drove it to Doncaster and back on Friday :)

Few things to address, mixtures need to be a tad richer being held on boost (currently between 14-15:1 depending on boost level)

Cruise need's to be leaned up HEAPS! 10:1 the whole way, probably used 15L of fuel one way :/

Thermo fans needed, temperature creeps up in traffic. Had to keep a slow roll going to maintain it in the low half.

Bigger air filter, just put one on as a temp solution and it's making strange induction noises now :P (Its a K&N 1.5" opening for a catch/can from a R34)

Few little things to fix, the exhaust (Nearly finnished) need's to be tweaked.

 

The only problem is I may have inadvertently gotten my first speeding ticket :(

After getting off east-link, I recalled that larger wheels will in-fact make my car go faster than what is being read.

Kinda sucks considering I did not speed once the whole trip according to my speedometer :(

[mhmills]

Get a gps work out what speeds are what. That's what I do mines out all over the place because I'm running 195/45/14's.

[Jaydnisevil]

Get a gps work out what speeds are what. That's what I do mines out all over the place because I'm running 195/45/14's.

 

Yes I know that works well, but given I was going to work (a path I know) it skipped my mind.

Iv already done calculations yesterday at work.. and they did not end up in my favor :(

Ohh well, one in 4 years isn't bad :) Especially considering it was not directly my fault, granted I did wonder why everybody was driving so slow that morning :P

[Evan G]

wait your located in melbourne?

[Jaydnisevil]

wait your located in melbourne?

 

Rye not Melbourne but Victoria yes.

[Evan G]

elephant lion same

[Jaydnisevil]

Been a while since I popped the bonnet on ye old rolla.

 

Today after work decided to do some troubleshooting, mainly the boost leaks. Long story short I re-designed the part that seals against the carby hat.

I still want a better solution, but for now its better than it was. I have no idea how to make a round peg fit in a square hole :/

Iv got all tomorrow to sort that out, ill so some researching tonight. Maybe plumbing adapters for spouting? don't know if they will supply them in the dimensions I need..

This is where it would be amazing to have a 3D printer!

 

Secondly (May have mentioned previously) but I have allowed some air to bleed itself from the boost retard pod to stop so much timing being pulled. I had a though though, given my waste-gate spring is only 3.6psi, I could just tee into that. Ill check tomorrow how much 3.6psi pulls the timing with a pressure tester. Any who its much nicer to drive now, pulls considerably harder. Still needs fine tuning, Also the mixtures go too lean above 5psi and quite a bit too lean after an extended period on boost (That'd be jets that are a fraction too small at a guess.)

 

Some bad news, my O2 sensor has had a fit.

Probably due to the oil from when it was draw-through setup. Ill take it out, soak in petrol and if that does not fix ill have to buy another :(

 

Now a strange anomaly, on my road test tonight I found that even with the wastegate hose disconnected I'm only getting 9-10psi at the manifold. Now maybe this is due to the small passage through the carby (one throat is open only) and that's all that can squeeze past. Or maybe its just because of the pressure drop through the inter-cooler and everything, and the turbo could be putting out a much more desirable pressure.

 

I'm not at the turbo's limit just yet for two reasons: One alot of the starlet guys are running 14psi+ (might be turbo pressure readings)

And two, there is no drop off of boost pressure at the higher RPM's. If it were running out of puff, id see a loss of pressure as the airflow requirements increase.

 

Now, hopefully this 10psi issue is because my crappy little waste-gate spring isn't doing its job correctly, I can test for this by applying a light vacuum to the waste-gate, holding it shut.

I want to think its this because the standard manifold directs gas downward directly at the wastegate valve. However I don't think this will be the issue as I had a plate blocking it some time ago and didnt see more than 10psi (granted I backed off because of pinging)

if not: Boost leaks (Re-design carby hat adapter and piping)

if not: Setup (can only test by removing inter-cooler.)

if not: exhaust manifold design is limiting flow.

 

*EDIT*

Brilliant idea, I can remove my cable for the secondaries and in place have a reasonably stiff spring. Under light throttle or boost (Or even vacuum) it will not open. But once under pressure it would be forced open. Ideally I would like a pod to actuate it open once x pressure has been achieved. The mechanical linkage was a terrible setup, definitely better without it.

 

Rather scary moment when on the way back home I lost all boost pressure, thought something had gone catastrophically wrong. Turns out I just blew a hose off :P

 

reaching about 9psi.

 

Note that my focus was not to record, Its hard to keep the camera vibration free while your hand is firmly grabbing the steering wheel and the camera as a second.

Also note that the speedo is reading about 10-14kph lower if out if you recall me mentioning earlier.

 

Ohh and No I wasnt speeding :) found a nice 80-100-80 road down towards the next suburb, near the transfer-station :)

Edited February 17, 2012 by Jaydnisevil

[Jaydnisevil]

Source of boost issue fixed :)

As I had hoped, it was the wastegate and boost leaks.

 

Long story short I need a 1 way check valve.

My boost reference lines are sourced from the manifold, hence it gets both vacuum and pressure. I clamped the lower wastegate hose when at just over atmospheric pressure, and released on boost. Sure enough 15psi maintaining at the manifold :) Exactly what I wanted.

 

Now as for the boost leaks. Its all coming from the circle -> rectangle join at the hat. I'm either gonna have to spring for a proper hat and modify the baseplate for a 34 opposed to a 32/36.

Iv got it under control for now, but its not reliable, every now and then ill loose pressure or blow the hose right off.

 

 

*Correction*

Was the check valve inside the boost Tee bleeder, I removed that and all is well, fully adjustable. I still want a check valve further up because I'm not sure how the vacuum will effect the wastegate; even if its equal on both sides.

I still really struggling to hold the pressure in the carby with that cursid join, I keep braking worm-drive clamps keeping the pressure on it. I'm back at 11-12psi because I can't hold it in :/

Edited February 18, 2012 by Jaydnisevil

[Jaydnisevil]

Would really appreciate ideas on how to solve my square peg in round hole conundrum.

Tomorrow I'm going to try deforming some automotive plastic intake ducting to slip over the end.

If that does not work I'm not sure what else I can do. Running out of ideas here.

[Smithius]

Is the carby hat aluminum? If so why don't you take it to a fabricator and see if you can get it modified so that it has the correct size inlet opening, shouldn't cost too much and that should stop those annoying issues.

[Jaydnisevil]

Is the carby hat aluminum? If so why don't you take it to a fabricator and see if you can get it modified so that it has the correct size inlet opening, shouldn't cost too much and that should stop those annoying issues.

 

Its alright, I solved today :)

Bought some Metal bonding putty http://www.selleys.com.au/putty/epoxy/knead-it-steel

Cleaned the area, formed it in the shape I wanted and it goes rock solid (And fast)

Iv re-sealed the hat to the carby (had to remove to shape it correctly) and am waiting for the sealant to dry before testing.

[Jaydnisevil]

More development in my boost issue.

Struggled to find a check valve at the major auto stores, so instead just ran the reference line to the turbo compressor housing opposed to the manifold.

Will this hurt my spool time? Possibly, the manifold will pick up the pressure after the gate does, but it seems to be ok.

 

Any-who I found that it was opening with too little pressure because the valve was being assisted open by the exhaust pressure.

Solution, restrict the line to the lower half of the gate, while allowing the top half to receive the full 15psi (Holding shut).

So I found a miniscule hose from a can of upper engine cleaner, and jammed that inline with the hose and bam! fixed.

So now I need a more permanent solution.

I was thinking along the lines of tapping my brass tee and putting a grub screw inside with a hole drilled through it.

Will just use my 1mm or 1.5mm drill bit if I can find them :/

 

Ohh and the hat seals perfectly now :D Thank you very much selly :D

Edited February 19, 2012 by Jaydnisevil

[Jaydnisevil]

LOLZ, drilled the jet out to 2mm today. WAYYY RICH! Stumbling, missing and not revving.

Iv ordered the jets I believe I need. Just did this to determine what the upper limit was.

Was drilled with a 1.55mm, and I have ordered a 165 and a 170 primary jet. Will see how that goes :)

Given 155 was around 17:1 at 10psi and off the scale at 15psi I think 165 will be perfect, if not I have one step up from that :)

[Jaydnisevil]

165 jet is in and sweet Jesus there is an improvement!! :)

Drives so much better and pulls harder :)

Its still wayy too hot tonight, its pinging at anything above 7psi even with 98RON. Need to buy some more octane booster (If it does anything)

Next step, tinker with the waste gate a little more. With my grub screw idea I'm up to 11-12psi, but not my full 15.

Need to change the source of the air to the manifold for the lower half of the gate. Should help in spool up as well.

 

Its sitting around 12.4-12.8:1 :D

 

Tomorrow will be adjusting the plug gap from 1.1 to 0.8mm

I spoke to somebody Friday who had a Blowthrough RX7 who maintained that the change from 1.1 to 0.8mm just about fixed his detonation.

I'm fairly certain its to do with this heat and possibly timing. But can't hurt to check :D

May also need a colder range plug now that I think of it.

 

So happy :)

Edited February 25, 2012 by Jaydnisevil