I'd like to CC the chamber as well sometime this week if I get the chance, itd be interesting to see what the CR drops to.. I know the maths, just need a syringe :)

 

 

Just curious as I have never seen it before..... Did you use that pocket axe thingo and lube to clean up the head and inlet/exhaust ports??

If so how did you go about doing it??

 

Nahh, was too big.. its just a palm sized stone with a coarse and fine side used on the cast iron block, not sure as to how well it would work with alloy.

If anybody uses that stone in the future, make sure you put a rag or gladwrap on the inside of the chamber walls before you start, its a bitch to get the fine particles out of the rings.

I used a LOT of CRC, and clean rags to get it all out.

My stepdad cleaned the entire head at his work in the parts bath, some intense chemical that you put in a drum with the part suspended and seal the top with water.

Edited August 15, 201214 yr by Jaydnisevil

Back together and running :)

Brought her up to temperature and set the carby up again, Ill bring it up to temp tomorrow, then re-tension the head bolts and re-do the tappets :)

 

Replaced the manifold bolts all with studs, easier to install and remove when the head is on the engine.

Gate gasket is blown, not a death sentence, but needs to be replaced later.

 

For anybody that's interested

Back together.

Edited August 18, 201214 yr by Jaydnisevil

DAMN!! Thats Niiiiice!

Cheers, she's getting there :)

 

Anywho I drove the car on the weekend again, ive pulled the timing right back as I want to set everything right incrementally.

As previously mentioned, primary mixtures are perfect.. secondary's are on the lean side (which I believe to be the air corrector as it happens around 4k+)

I also changed the air filer to a larger "Whale penis" setup.. For now.

As an intended side effect, I have lost my nice little flutter and am left with a fully sick does :glare:

 

So ill get around to a wrecker at some point and look for a suitable regular airbox, and I'm having my blow off valve welded on sometime this week.

 

Anywho, here's the video:

Mate of mine at work had a friend with a TIG welder, offered to weld up my blow off valve cheap. I should get it back later tomorrow :)

Just a question, why is this thread in "Rides"? Shouldn't it be in "Technical builds" ?

Noooo keep the does lol. i plan on making mine does :P

Edited August 30, 201214 yr by ninja-ke20

i must say but man shes come a long way

looks really good.

Noooo keep the does lol. i plan on making mine does :P

 

*does, not does :P

 

Looking good! Seems a much better setup than the draw through

Seems this site wont let us spell d o s e!!!

Oh shit! You're right!!!! Now I look like an idiot hahaha

Yes. Yes you do :P

I wish i was as cool as you Jono xoxoxox

 

I know mate, But it's okay.

haha all good u can see i tried to fix it at first and was denied

Been quite a while since I worked on the car, been very busy.

Anywho, I've got the top half of the motor apart again for a few reasons.

One of them being that my carburettor hat gasket was weeping under boost and it ruined the paint on my manifold -_-

 

The other is that for Xmas I'll be getting ARP head studs! :)

So the head is off, I have a head gasket (Will need a few others) and am awaiting the studs; Will update when it's all back together.

Once that is done, if the motor gives way again, that's it.

The only reason I'm going down this path is for reliability, not bigger numbers.

 

Also, if anybody would like any measurements while the head and what not is off, feel free to ask.

 

I was having issues with the second hand Blitz blow off valve having huge vacuum leaks to atmo.. Turns out the piston does not have any O-Rings -_-

So after Xmas is all done and dusted, I'll just get an eBay replica HKS SSQV that is a diaphragm pull type; should solve my issue.