Haha but it doesn't stop Porsche making fast cars...!

 

I like the sway bar, I've got a whiteline one for a KE10 at home and the brackets to mount to the control arm are ridiculous, I'm probably going to chop it and weld some adjustable ears on it and put spherical bearings on there like he's done!

yeah the sway bar is much better than most cheaper aftermarket setups.

 

at first i thought it was a blade type sway bar.

man I dig how he went about mounting his gearbox on the angle, check his shifter too, I suspect he just bent it over a bit.

 

I'm not quite understanding why he's got the spacer plate on the head though? it's not changing any angles, he's got a straight runner inlet manifold.

 

Does anyone know where to get one of those manifolds, while we're on the topic?

The adapter plate is part of the TRD upright kit. The idea of it is to change the bolt locations to better seal the ports. Ie the ex ports have a n extra bolt directly above them. HOWEVER, I can't really understand how this can really improve things all that much when you still use the standard bolt configuration to bolt the adapter plate to the head.

 

Blown5k did a re-run of TRD upright manifolds last year. I can see if he still has any left if you want?

yea I thought that aswell about the plate...

 

This now shows how its done, some very good information here and have got some good pics :yes:

Blown5k did a re-run of TRD upright manifolds last year. I can see if he still has any left if you want?

 

Give him a yell and find out, I shouldn't be buying such frivolous goodies but hell this racecar has me inspired.

PM, or in that case U2U sent. :yes:

If you also look at the shape of a TRD inlet port ona TRD head and how much there ground out with out the plate you can't run stock manifolds even a big port one you would grind right through the manifold and can't weld them thicker as bolts wont hold them on as metal would be in the way so the extra port length gave more freedom.

 

There are also 2 different lengths of TRD up right manifold depending on the tune you bought for them. In a KE1X Id go for the short ones as you need the room.

 

Also up righting the engine gave much better flow back to the sump for oil. As after racing the KE15 around pop the rocker cover off and you will see a great example of how about 1L of oil sits in the back of the head over cylinder 4..LOL

 

But TRD also then matched a HEAP of extra parts to the up right kit. FOr instance they addeda cam driven oil pump for a dry sump the dry sump you could buy was cast so the bottom of it was flat when motor was up righted etc.

 

Cheers

Cameron

To keep myself amused on the morning commute this week I have been reading the Tosco engine manual.

 

I didn't realise that they only used a fancy bellhousing when uprighting the engine if they used a K50. The K40 only needed a new gearbox crossmember mount along with the revised engine mounts.

 

If he is running a K40, perhaps this is why.

Still doesn't explain the shifter position on the K40 though?

If you want an Upright manifold here is what I did to get a upright manifold for the K motor in my car

 

 

The injection is ZX6RR bike injection

Edited September 18, 201016 yr by Crostek