New tune.

No vac advance at all. Just 10 degrees base timing.

 

Carb is tuned with 55/55 idle, 165/160 air & 150/145 mains.

Idle mixture is turns out and idle speed is 1&1/2 turns in.

Idle is lumpy but relatively even with moderate manifold vacuum at 1000rpm.

 

I think the camshaft could have been fitted with about 2 degrees advance instead of just fitting it straight up but maybe next time.

 

Today I fitted an old set of 6" Monza spot lights I've had for years. One lense is cracked so I'm on the hunt for another set. At least the wiring is done now. With the on set of winter and dark morning runs to work on Kangaroo hazard roads I could do with the extra visibility.

Edited April 6, 201511 yr by GJM85

Loving the idea of the old school spot lights! The old 70's scene is coming back in! Oh and by the way................piccies?

Beautiful car!

They're a great size, not too much going on up front, well done!

They're just a cheap 160mm 100w h3 lights. I had them on my ae92 seca about 8 years ago.

I'm gonna swap to the Narva 150mm spot beams as soon as I can. Keeps it looking tidy.

 

Options are quite limited with space restraints on front bumper. I'd like a spot and spread beam combination in a 6" pair but they just don't make them. Any smaller and there's no real lighting gain. Any bigger and they interfere with grill and you can't tilt them up enough.

LED's are an option but the price isn't right and they just don't look the part.

 

It's been recommended the I get the headlights on relays to brighten things up also.

Edited April 7, 201511 yr by GJM85

For less than $30 you can't beat these kits. I was gonna make and sell them but no way I can compete. I use a quad light one and the difference is quite noticeable with decent bulbs.

 

Same guy sells a quad light kit for a few bucks more. So you could hook your spotties up to high beam with it. Such a piece of piss kit to install too.

Edited April 7, 201511 yr by B.L.Z.BUB

Brilliant. I just spent the last hour reading up on making my own kit. I couldn't make it myself for less.

Cheers Reed!

I bought my kit for $140 before I knew basic electrics :(

So after a week of trying to find a mischievous fuel leak from the carb. I discovered a crack in a brass plug in the idle circuit.

This leak has been a nasty bitch of a thing, leaning out my idle/progressive fuel mixtures, vacuum leak, fire hazard...

I swapped all the bits over to the spare weber I have. The issue is the throttle shafts are worn pretty bad so I'd like to fix this plug.

Can I just drill it out and make my own plug or is it more complicated?

I'd say drill and see, weber's are so basic. just my 2c. Surely a welsh plug that small should be able to be acquired to replace?

 

cheers!

Lay it on its side and fill it with solder.

So I ended up drilling it out. It's a 7mm plug. I'll just turn some brass on the old mans lathe when I get the chance.

 

On another note, I received the relay harness, Blzbub put me onto. I decided to integrate my own ground wires into the loom to the battery instead of using the earth ring things the supply for each light.

As was said noticeably brighter light. But I think running the 100w spot lights off the same relay as the high beams could possibly be drawing too much current as it fried the 15 amp fuse within 5 minutes.

I've fitted a 20 amp fuse. I'll see if I get to work tomorrow with out it popping.

Edited April 14, 201511 yr by GJM85

Try using a separate relay for the spot lights, and use the headlight relay to switch it. So it works the same but halves the draw. Use a 20 amp fuse for spot light relay.

200w divided by 12volts = 16amps.

 

Yep so the 20 amp fuse has done the job. For now I'll leave the lights as the are. My next hurdle is going to be an alternator upgrade.

 

I have, what I believe to be an early external regulated bosch alternator. The book says 14v & 19-27 amp at 1800rpm. I getting 13.7v with running engine at 1800rpm. I linked the B pole to the starter cable with 40 amp wire few years back to maximise charge voltage.

 

So at best I'm likely getting around 25amp from the alternator. I'm using 9amp for the ignition at idle, 1.5amp for the fuel pump, 1-2amp for the stereo and 22amp for the head lights on high beam plus all other tidbits. I guess it's no surprise the charge light comes on when I hit the high beam.

 

So, I have a Nippon Denso alternator, it was on my ke70 from way back when. Internally regulated, I think 14v 40amp. Correct me if I'm wrong. Still has about 7mm on the brushes.

I'll need to make a new mount bracket and rewire it. Still have to figure that part out.

Is it worth the conversion or is there a better option.