GJM85 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Clutch cable just snapped going into town to get my wife a birthday card. The ʇ~~ɔ upstairs ʞ©$ɟing hates me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roo Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Not having much luck, I brought my flywheel in to guy in Bris machined and lighten within the hour, sounds abit rough how long the head is taking, clutches are over rated haha can still drive her home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted December 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 I made the journey to Phil's Rotary's/Fast Fours/New Old Car Company at Brendale for the clutch cable today. I walked out with 2 clutch cables, bailey channel and front indicator park lights. I had to restrain myself. I could find myself in a whole world of trouble in that place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted December 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 It's Christmas Day for the ke20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) So it's been almost 2 weeks since doing the swap. It certainly has more ponies with the cam and flywheel. The gearbox shop didn't assemble the box properly and it was stuck in first gear. I got that sorted out and the rest went quite well. Earlier this week the manifold gasket started leaking. I don't think I did a great job cleaning the surfaces when I put it back together. Long story short I pulled the manifolds off to fix it and I decided to take the exhaust wrap off the extractors only to find the #4 tube has a 2" crack. Hooray! I'm booked in on Tuesday for a new set of tubes. I've been playing with valve clearances. The recommended .014" ex & .012" intake clearances makes it really rattle and I'm not down with that so much. Today I went to .010" ex & .008" intake. It's surprising how much the valve clearance affects the duration of the cam. That .004" difference takes the intake duration from 276* to 301 degrees, the exhaust duration from 270* to 282 degrees and adds 6 degrees to the valve overlap duration. I can't imagine there'd be any performance to be gained here but it certainly runs a bit quieter at idle. Edited January 2, 2015 by GJM85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clapped out Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Sad to hear your up for a new set of extractors, heat wrap shortens the longevity of the extractors, maybe HPC maybe an option if your worried about heat transfer? cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 I thought about going with the ceramic coating and I might go that road if I run into any issues later but for now I'll just see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 I had the same on my first extractors, wrapping around them after the 4 pipes ran paralell. That meant they just radiated heat into each other as they all sat under the blanket getting red-hot, so the new ones are just wrapped where they are individual pipes and where they all run together is open for cooling. Without any wrapping you pump a lot of heat into the carbs. The smaller tappet gap should make it run better higher up, but it might be so high you'll never reach the revs to make it work! We used to change tappet gaps to change the cam characteristics a bit on the rally Datsun. Take another look at the flywheel picture and imagine surfacing the face right across, moving the pins and pressure plate holes right out to the edge, and finding a much bigger pressure palte and clutch plate to suit! We used Datsun 260C clutches on the 1600 like that, it gave much greater clamping pressure, a bigger grip area and kept a light pedal. The plates we had made with a 260C outer and a 1600 spline in the middle. I'm sure something in the Toyota range must fit that idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 A clutch like that might be a bit much for the driveline. You could possibly get away with a lite ace flywheel. They've got a 210mm clutch I think. I don't know if they fit inside the k series bell housing and they use a 21 tooth spline. As for the pipes, mine cracked on the bend of the #4 tube where is was wrapped by itself. The exhaust shop recommended using one of those flexible plate heat shield if I wanted to do anything. They're surprised I got 4 years out of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 A clutch like that might be a bit much for the driveline. You could possibly get away with a lite ace flywheel. They've got a 210mm clutch I think. I don't know if they fit inside the k series bell housing and they use a 21 tooth spline. The 5k clutch and flywheel don't fit in a K bell, if your desperate enough they can be made to fit. I've done it but I wouldn't recommend it. I'm suprised you got more than 12 months out of those headers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 mine cracked on the bend of the #4 tube where is was wrapped by itself. Ah.. damm, now I'll wonder about my partly-wrapped ones! I put a sheet of thin stainless steel (microwave cover) glued to a sheet of Hardie's fibrolite between the starter and the extractors, and a 1mm alloy sheet between the SUs and the extractors. It still boils the petrol out of the carb when turned off after a run, you can smell it in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechanical Sympathy Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 I can also confirm the 5K clutch does not fit in a K40 bellhousing. I did not realise it was an issue until I reinstalled the driveline and turned the key! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 I've never really had issues with heat and the weber. I've machined out the original baker lite plate with them PVC stem and used it between the manifold and the adapter plate. My main concern is the starter and alternator and burning myself while I'm messing around under the bonnet. I've found the Exedy HD clutch hold fine with the worked 5k. Has about 60% left after 4 years. I'd say it'll disappear a bit faster now the cam is in as it doesn't pull off the line as easy with using a bit more rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 New headers fitted this arvo. Hurricanes, $330 fitted. They've changed the thickness of the flange so they don't have those cruddy little half washers tacked on anymore. But the welds on the lower part of the flange interfere with the nuts underneath. But I can't complain about that at all. Also, I purchased a torque wrench while I waited. About time. Everybody needs one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted February 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 I've been having trouble with idle and take off. I've spent the last month trying different jets and settings but no getting no headway. I'll get it running good then the next day it's piss poor and so on. Really poor vacuum below 1500rpm due to the camshaft profile. It was idling like shit, would stumble off the line then she'd eat all her lunch at once and go like blazers. I finally cottoned on the the vacuum advance today. After reading a fair bit on the V8 forums I decided to run it from the manifold vacuum instead of ported vac off the carb. Big difference. With initial timing @ 10* it pulls an extra 5-10* at idle which increases manifold vac and smooths out the idle. As soon as the throttle starts to open vacuum drops away as the mechanical advance comes on. Happy days. On another note. More backyard engineering. I balanced my tailshaft with hose clamps. I fitted 2 clamps loosely at the gearbox end and ran it up to 120km/h on stands with the wheels off. The theory is the lock screw of the clamp will move to the point on the shaft where it's countering the heavy point on the tailshaft. Then you just lock them up where they end up. I'm not sure how accurate this is obviously but for me it's has dramatically reduced the vibration that comes on at around 110km/h. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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