prolly just the reground cam, conrods and all the shit that was on the engine when i got it......oil pickup, fuel pump.....all that kinda stuff.....

Are you getting new rods as well???

not sure about the rods....prolly just use the old ones....

AFAIK stock rods are good to 9000rpm?

yea i know...but I want a set of 5K rods :D

5ks use hydraulic lifters, you probably don't want to put big revs thru them because they "pump up" and stuff up your valve lift and lash. you can convert to holden six lifters, i think they drop straight in. not sure what pushrods to use, maybe 5k maybe 4k

 

you'll also want to keep this in mind when getting your cam ground, as a grind for a hydro lifter is totally different to a grind for a solid lifter

 

measure the dish in those pistons, try to be accurate to within 1cc. use petrol or carby cleaner or oil or metho, and a syringe or burette

 

ben, get a photo of your 5k pistons?

 

don't rev any K motor past 8 on a regular basis, or blocks go bye bye

 

if you want to talk to me more, email me

thanks for that superjamie.....i'll prolly end up with the solid holden lifters and try to get some push rods to fit them, the cam is being ground this week coming..... :D .....should have the std block and crank on monday, then it goes to the engine rebuilder to get bored and the crank linished......all coming along nicely :D

don't rev any K motor past 8 on a regular basis, or blocks go bye bye

 

There are, of course exceptions to the rule..... :D

don't rev any K motor past 8 on a regular basis, or blocks go bye bye

 

There are, of course exceptions to the rule..... :|

I believe with correctly balanced conrods and crank there should be able to rev a K up to 8k...not much point...a good grind should be making max power at about 7500

 

Youd probably want to lighten the crank a fair bit..theyre pretty hefty.

thats right, you want to GET TO 8 but you don't want to STAY THERE

 

i don't think crank lightening matters so much, how much do you take off before you start altering the metal structure either thru heat transfer or force loading? i know i'd prefer a strong crank than a lightened weak one. flywheels are where you should make your lightening. and carbon fibre tailshafts (only $1200!)

 

you can however knife-edge the crank, which will allow it to cut thru the sump oil and reduce splash at high rpm. but then again you want splash because that's how the bores and the underside of the pistons cool. knife edging is really only meant for race motors that spend all day at full song and get rebuilt once a season or whatever. i think a street motor should have a stock crank

 

build your motor like a racecar, and you'll have to rebuild it quick, like a racecar

 

and a well balanced K will rev to 10 and beyond, like cafee's 4K. wouldn't take it there often though :|

very true.......i wouldnt want to take my engine to 8 grand anyway since i will prolly still have the stock running gear, although how strong would a carbon fibre tailshaft be......i'm thinking much stronger than a stock one, $1200 is fairly good for one of them. however i'll prolly upgrade the running gear down the track a bit....gotta do some research first, and build the bank up again :|.

valve bounce, or as i call it "the carby car rev limiter" saves alot of old motors, my last 3k for a start :laff: but remember new stock valve springs are only $35 a set. if your valve bounce is below like 6500rpm, you should get new springs (fook). seriously tho an aisan carby can't supply that much air anyway, i'd say you couldnt really get one to rev past 7500, tops. i know mines having this problem now :laff:

 

a properly made carbon fibre tailshaft will be stronger and lighter than the original item, and f@$k it will get you massive gran-turismo-style street cred :|

 

and yes, the more you work a K motor, the tougher sounding it gets. the best sound i think comes from angry little hi-comp 3Ks with twin sprinter downdrafts. a decent 4k gets a deeper note, totally different. a 3k is pissed off, a 4k is MAD!

 

i would like to hear your ridiculously large cam nick, get a soundfile? :)

Heh... New valve springs, new timing belt, new valve stem seals, new rings, why don't I get a new car with that hey? And fries while I'm at it :)

 

I've heard Nick's 4K, and yes it does sound rather lumpy at idle :|

try retarding the timing a truckload. my 3K accually runs better on ULP than PULP...i have a feeling its because of the very short stroke.

you can however knife-edge the crank, which will allow it to cut thru the sump oil and reduce splash at high rpm. but then again you want splash because that's how the bores and the underside of the pistons cool.

AFAIK the K motors oil level is too far below the crank to get ANY splash.

there are baffles in the sump to prevent starvation of the oil pickup, but i would think the oil level would rise above this. i will keep in mind to check this out next time i have my sump off (next weekend i hope, maybe tomorrow if its not 42C again). or if you've got a spare sump lying round (i cbf driving to mums house to get one of mine) fill it with 3.7L of liquid and see where the level comes to

 

with 12 degrees advance, my stock 3k was more powerful on Ultimate than regular. i only run Ultimate. optimax might be alright but it doesnt mix with other petroleum based products well. we don't get mobil synergy here but apparently that is THE SHIT as far as pump fuels go. caltex vortex is just, ugh, you may as well fill up with diesel