Ke30 Ascf 1200 Junior Sedan Build Speedway

[Andy43]

Thought since I was building one up may as well share PIXs, Info, Highs and Lows with rollaclub members.

I'll keep a update of the cost as well, Just don't heckle me too much each time I get ripped off.

Build so far.

 

Picked up a old KE30 farm hack for free.

 

10 year old son stripped car, with a Kmart tool set, I was hoping to sell some of the interior parts to cover costs but he broke every thing. ( bugger)

Worse job so far has been removing sound deading, A paint scraper and heat gun work good here.

 

Inspected shell for rust, yep it there in all the spots I would expect to find it.

Noticed its been cut and shunt at the drivers front subframe rail.

This wont cause too many issues as in a speedway rollcage, the cage will support strut towers and subframe.

Rust has been treated as the car is golng to wear a fibreglass skin not too fussed about going overboard with the repairs, I just need to stop it from getting worse.

You wont be able to see the rust as panels will cover it.

Lower subframe rail has rust hole this will get reinforced and a plate welded over it.

 

Its off to Scooters racecar fabrication in ballarat to get the rollcage dropped in, over the next few days.

 

Total cost so far.

$50 for Manual Pedal box and Manual crossmember.

$30 paint and rust treatment.

 

Photo of rust in subframe

 

It is easy to see the shunt in upper rail, the lower rail is also Shunt but you cannot see it once its painted

 

A few general pix of where we are so far,

Edited November 7, 2010 by Andy43

[Evan G]

noice! whats the to-do lists?

[Andy43]

Next Job is to call Evan to see if he has!!!!!!!!!!

A brake booster, Master Cylinder and handbrake lever.

 

Source one of those cup thinggys that goes on the firewall for the clutch as this car was a Auto.

( I think the local pinch a part still has a few KE's there)

Front end and rear end need total rebuild.

need to rear mount VT radiator.

Kirky race seat.

Alloy head plate.

Source 3.9 diff and lock.

Import Bilstien P0077 for front.

 

++++ heaps more.

Expect build to take 12 months I will keep all updated.

Andy

[Andy43]

Ok

The weather is bad, racing is called off, So it on to the motor.

 

I picked up a near new motor that had been heat sized and siting in a blokes shed for 30 years, ( I got 3 3k and 2 k40 for $70 on ebay)

Striped the engine down bores are within limits and crank looks like its just come out of factory.

I have got on ebay a gaskit kit, $50, pistons and rings for $40 and bearings for $40, water pump $50 got a wade 446b grind for $80 and lifters refaced $32.

So so far engine owes me about (say $20 for 3k) $312. opps forgot the engine paint better make it $330.

 

I has so far honed the block, done the bottem end and are ready to install sump, I timed the cam a few weeks back but thought I would show you how I check the cam timing while the head was off.

 

Prior to installing the sump, I want to make the timing chain cover removeable, So I have removed the studs and replaced with grub screws, that way best of both worlds easy to install gaskit and easy to remove cover.

Here's how I done it.

 

This is what you need

 

And this is what it looks like to start with.

 

 

 

Using two nuts to lock on each other remove studs

 

 

Once the studs are removed put some lock tight on the grub screws and screw them in.

 

Give it some time for the lock tight to set and put the sump on.

 

 

 

OK now checking the cam timing.

First off you must establish TDC for number 1 when its firing, not number 4 will also be TDC but will be rocking, that is the lnlet and exhaust valves will be open a little bit.

SO we spin the crank around so the timing mark and balancer is at zero, I like to feel down the lifter bore of number 4 to confirm is rocking, if its not you will need to spin the crank 360 degree's

Now we mount a dial indicatior on the piston of number one and move the crank slowly clock wise and anticlockwise until the pistion is at the very top of the bore.

 

 

 

At this point we check the mark on the balancer and remark if required, I have seen some balancers out by up to 3 degree's.

We now know for sure where TDC is on the balancer

 

 

Now we move the dial indicator to the inlet lobe, The grind for the Wade 446B says if you have 72 thou lift at TDC on inlet to cam is timed correcty.

Install a lifter in number one inlet and use a push rod to ready the dial indicatior, make sure everything is straight. (inline)

don't forget to zero the indicatior.

We move the crank in a clock wise direction slowly and watch the dial indicator, Once it reads 72 thou stop, as the lifter is unsprung if you go past 72 thou you will need to start again as you reading could be suspect as lifter may not travel down bore correctly.

 

 

 

 

In this case my cam is about 1 degree retarded, its very hard to get better than that, in most cases the factory gears will set you cam up for about 5 degree retarded.

 

 

OK so what do you do if the cam timing is wrong.

First off you need to get some spare cam timing gears, never give these away cause if you a playing with cam timing you will use a few.

For this you need.

The cam gear off the cam.

One spare cam gear to use a drill guide.

A bench vise

some g clamps or vice grips.

A piece of tube that fits very tight into the centre hole of the Cam gear.

A drill and a drill bit the same size as the cam dowel.

 

First off remove timing cover, tensioner, gear and chain. try not to move crank or cam as makes getting back on easy.

slide cam gear to be drilled one the tube face up.

slide cam gear to be used as guide face up.

Note CAM gears are 20 degree's spaced so if you line the peak up on one gear with the valley of the next gear you will have 10 degree retard or advance depending on what teeth you use.

 

Here one set of 10 degrees. ( its a bit blury but youy can get the meassage)

 

 

 

If you need 5 or 15 degree's just half it again, Once you try to get any less than about 5 degrees you setting will start of get a bit random, I normally drill 3 or 4 holes to what I want a take the best one.

 

When its ready for drilling it should look like this.

 

 

 

And the end product will look like this.

 

 

Now its just a matter of installing it again and checking the cam timing, Note I have also marked the timing teeth this helps as well.

 

 

Total cost so far $410 for project

Cheers

Andy

Edited November 15, 2010 by Andy43

[Andy43]

One of the jobs prior to getting the cage in, is to scale up the car.

OK so a KE30 fully stripped, with diff, front end, brakes and steering is 388 kg.

I would be interested to know if anyone else has done this.

Cheers

Andy

 

 

 

[jimi91]

hey mate where do ye live??? and do ya want a corona 3.9 diff ???? i have one if ur interested and i could sell it to ya for cheap???

 

see ya

 

jimi

[Andy43]

The engines done heads on.

And yep change of plan.

Decided need a test bed for the speedway car, and after seeing my Son's effort in running in his motor the last few meetings, Think its better for me the run the engine in.

So the daily drivers 3k get dumped, The race motor goes in.

 

The budget built motor completed.

 

Out comes the old klunker

 

 

 

In goes the budget one.

 

 

 

 

So how's it run.

Lumpy idle, the carby needed bigger jets.

The run in has come along nice, getting 160 psi per pot.

The engine pulls good through rev range and spins up to 8,000 nicely.

 

Next job, this one comes out and the proper built race engine goes in.

[ae824ate]

Awesome job, really sounds like you know what you are on about! :y:

[altezzaclub]

Nice cam work- same as we used to do on the rally car. The P510 has three holes already, and a 4th hole gives 4 or 5 degree shifts up to a tooth's worth.

[ke70dave]

that is cool, nice bit of tech info there as well.

 

keep the pics and info coming!

[Andy43]

that is cool, nice bit of tech info there as well.

 

keep the pics and info coming!

 

Thanks dave.

The plan is show a bit of techo stuff and show it isn't that hard, And to show how cheap it is to get the kids into racing.

Some of the speedway stuff is a bit agricultural and not hi tech but it all fun.

Andy

[towe001]

OK so what do you do if the cam timing is wrong.

First off you need to get some spare cam timing gears, never give these away cause if you a playing with cam timing you will use a few.

For this you need.

The cam gear off the cam.

One spare cam gear to use a drill guide.

A bench vise

some g clamps or vice grips.

A piece of tube that fits very tight into the centre hole of the Cam gear.

A drill and a drill bit the same size as the cam dowel.

Thats pretty techie - Rep point :jamie:

 

Any chance on an article for the tech section on that ?