To remove axles I did the following:

 

Remove drum cover, turn around to put back on backwards, put wheel nuts on a few threads to hold drum cover on.

 

Tap drum cover with hammer at different points and eventually the axle came out.

 

You can use the drum cover to pull back against the nuts to force the axle out but if they been in there a while you will have not much luck. I tried that method for about 30 seconds and then just reached for the hammer :cool: Hammer was much quicker.

 

Mick beat me to it

Edited January 5, 201115 yr by LukeAE71

Ive always been scared of breaking the drum cover, i suppose its cast so its gotta be reasonably strong. I'll try you guys method this Friday!

You'll do it and say to yourself "why didnt I do that the first time!"

 

Then you'll thank us in beers and cheers :P

 

Haha, let us know how you get on.

If you jack it up and pull the wheel towards you the 2mm, can someone watch the brake drum from under the car and see or feel that 2mm.

 

I'd make sure the axle was sliding in and out 2mm before I pulled it apart, unless there is absolutely no chance of the movement being in the suspension.

 

If its in the axle then either the bearing is sliding in the diff housing via a loose backing plate inside the drum, or the axle is sliding inside the bearing.

 

I can't see how anything in the diff center can affect it.

 

PS- sliding hammer for the axle removal! It has the correct force direction and there is no chance of smashing the drum.

Edited January 5, 201115 yr by altezzaclub

I snapped the centrebolt of the leaf springs on one side once. Made a noise that annoyed the hell out of me and took a while to locate. Thought it was unis, then spring bushes, brake drum noise, etc.

 

If you don't have a slidehammer:

To remove an axle just bolt the wheel/tyre back on with the wheel nuts done up only half a dozen turns or so. Push wheel in against axle, then reef it outwards, repeat until axle comes out. I found it is a lot more effective then reversing a drum.

yeah the wheel works alot better than the drum. more weight = more swinging power!

 

one of these days I'm going to get a spare axel and turn it into a slide hammer. nice chunk of steel slid over the axel, with a stop welded on. its going to be awesome.

 

btw in regards to the weird clearance problem, any chance you coudl have put the wrong wheel bearing in? 2mm too thin? and even though the bolts are doen up there is clearance? about the only reasonably explanation i can think of.

 

as even if the diff centre is playing silly buggers, the axel bearing and retainer plate (whatever it is called) should hold the axel/wheel still. as far as i can remeber there is nothing else that holds it in..

I snapped the centrebolt of the leaf springs on one side once. Made a noise that annoyed the hell out of me and took a while to locate. Thought it was unis, then spring bushes, brake drum noise, etc.

 

If you don't have a slidehammer:

To remove an axle just bolt the wheel/tyre back on with the wheel nuts done up only half a dozen turns or so. Push wheel in against axle, then reef it outwards, repeat until axle comes out. I found it is a lot more effective then reversing a drum.

 

Ill make sure i check the center-bolt before i change the diff, anything is possible.

 

yeah the wheel works alot better than the drum. more weight = more swinging power!

 

one of these days I'm going to get a spare axel and turn it into a slide hammer. nice chunk of steel slid over the axel, with a stop welded on. its going to be awesome.

 

btw in regards to the weird clearance problem, any chance you coudl have put the wrong wheel bearing in? 2mm too thin? and even though the bolts are doen up there is clearance? about the only reasonably explanation i can think of.

 

as even if the diff centre is playing silly buggers, the axel bearing and retainer plate (whatever it is called) should hold the axel/wheel still. as far as i can remeber there is nothing else that holds it in..

 

Well I had this issue before i replaced the bearing and it didn't change anything? So i can only assume the bearing it correct, i ordered it specifically for a jap diff.

the problem seams too much clearance between the bearing and the cone.

 

couldnt you simply put shims behind the bearing therefore pushing it against the cone = less movement?

 

 

+1 for doesnt sound like the centre

the problem seams too much clearance between the bearing and the cone.

 

couldnt you simply put shims behind the bearing therefore pushing it against the cone = less movement?

 

 

+1 for doesnt sound like the centre

 

The thing is the axle is not moving 1-2mm, otherwise from any point on the wheel i would pull it and have it move, its only on one specific point that it gives a distinct clunk.

Possibly a damaged spider gear.

 

I know when a mate broke an axle in his KE, the wheel had alot of slop in it due to the end of the axle not supporting it.

*drum roll*

Huge thanks to Luke for the center!!!

 

Problem ended up being the center. The 'rod' (I'm unsure of correct term) in the center was just sliding back and forth smashing into the gears. I'm certain that was the clunk sound i was getting. How this produced the movement in the axle I'm not sure? There was some damage to the gears but nothing too major.

 

 

Ohh and i could not get the axle out either using the drum or bolting the wheel back on. I ended up doing this:

 

Big chain attached to the studs so it pulls from the center, got mum to hold the crow bar and I smashed it with the axe. Problem solvered. Also keep note of how clean my work area is haha

 

Edited January 7, 201115 yr by RA28GT

I did mention the pins holding the spider gears right under where I posted the diagram ;)

 

Good to see its all sorted :)

Edited January 7, 201115 yr by Raven