MYSTIK[RL] Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 I hope you realise the your governed to 21psi with that ecu? :) I'm am currently using the ps500 on my gte seca, with minor hiccups that have been sorted, due to the almost stock idle and most people do not realise there is an a/m ecu running the show :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted July 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 will this be running by mid next year? if so you should take me boosting when I'm down ;) Not sure.....there's two things that'll hold it back: money & how long it takes me to tire of driving a 4AGE powered car again. After driving a 2A for so long I don't know how long that'll be. :laff: Will take you for a spin regardless, might be three things holding it back if Stu keeps whispering things like "296 degree camshafts & a disco-potato" in my ear. :P I'm am currently using the ps500 on my gte seca, with minor hiccups that have been sorted, due to the almost stock idle and most people do not realise there is an a/m ecu running the show :thumbsup: I'm just wondering about those 'minor hiccups', anything specific to be wary of that you might care to share with me? If it's info you'd rather keep to yourself, all's cool. :) A neat & discrete install is the idea, things like: all that alloy piping will end up black (shiny isn't my thing), no open wastegate ( :( ) & the bov will be the plumb-back type. I know proper tuning might be a bit pricey, but I figure it's worth it as I want it to run properly, i.e like a factory turbo-engine. As much as possible anyway, as I don't have the chequebook of a car manufacturer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYSTIK[RL] Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 the minor hiccups were, basically i was running low impedance injectors without resistors and the ecu didnt really like it, no tach as using 4 coil setup, simple things that haven't stop me from driving the car, but have caused a few headaches with the tuning process. Which mostly have been sorted in the process of ironing out the bugs if you have a read of of my rides thread it details most of my problems there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_kid Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 (edited) I hope you realise the your governed to 21psi with that ecu? :) Does it have anything to do with the map sensor being inside the ECU? If so I believe you can run an external sensor with said computer. 21PSI is plenty for a FWD 4AGTE anyway... if you can get it to hold together with a reasonable CR so you have little lag then youll be right! Edited July 24, 2012 by Subaru_kid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 Does it have anything to do with the map sensor being inside the ECU? If so I believe you can run an external sensor with said computer. 21PSI is plenty for a FWD 4AGTE anyway... if you can get it to hold together with a reasonable CR so you have little lag then youll be right! Yeah in built map sensor is that size. I'm not 100% on fitting an external map sensor, my tuner told me that it wouldn't accept one so I was only going off that. He could be wrong though. Your right though that will be more than enough. Still doesn't stop me from stirring up Luke a bit though. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_kid Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 "Alternatively an external MAP sensor can be fitted via the harness allowing higher manifold pressures." http://files.haltech.com/downloads/platinum/Platinum_Sprint/quick_start_sprint_500.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 (edited) the minor hiccups were, basically i was running low impedance injectors without resistors and the ecu didnt really like it, no tach as using 4 coil setup, simple things that haven't stop me from driving the car, but have caused a few headaches with the tuning process. Which mostly have been sorted in the process of ironing out the bugs if you have a read of of my rides thread it details most of my problems there. This sounds familiar, I'm pretty sure it was from reading your thread a while back that I became aware of things like different impedences with injectors etc to be wary of when sourcing parts. So a double cheers/thankyou for the heads up! :2thumbs: Might head back & re-read a few things now. ;) Edit: This was the one... 1st: the current tacho wont ever work with the haltech, not a big deal, apparently a gze tacho swapped into the cluster should sort the issue but other than that its making 118kw @ 6750 on 7psi which isnt to shabby in my books More parts searching methinks. :hmm: 118kw atw on only 7psi sounds quite good to me! :D 21PSI is plenty for a FWD 4AGTE anyway... if you can get it to hold together with a reasonable CR so you have little lag then youll be right! Correct, too much power is no good to me unless I replicate something like what bazdas developed for his AE92 Levin, re:suspension/wheels/tyres etc setup to be able to put it down. Again, my pockets don't extend quite that deep. :( Nice interwebs searching by the by, cheers. ;) If I get 200hp at the wheels, I will be a very happy camper/torque-steerer. I'm pretty sure what I'll have put together will hold together quite happily. :) Still doesn't stop me from stirring up Luke a bit though. :) You know in cartoons how a little devil & angel hover over the characters shoulders? In this case, Stu's the devil & my bank balance is the angel. :P I'm just going to slap a heap of mostly factory Toyota bits together & see what happens. Edited July 25, 2012 by carbonboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYSTIK[RL] Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 118kw atw on only 7psi sounds quite good to me! :D it was making 118kw on 7psi, its now making 145kw @ 12psi. but then again i'm also using a tiny .49 rear housing off of a ca18, and not the usual .64 or .86 on most t25 turbos off of sr20's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_kid Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 (edited) Once you hit that power mark i think it would be wise to fab up some front trailing arms to help minimise said torque steer, along with stiff rear suspension to keep the front in place... then you will suffer from lift off oversteer unless you get a good LSD... or just weld it, then its a whole different ball game of suspension setup and you wont be able to street it much without snapping driveshafts... you might want to run PS aswell :P Edited July 26, 2012 by Subaru_kid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted July 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 (edited) it was making 118kw on 7psi, its now making 145kw @ 12psi. but then again i'm also using a tiny .49 rear housing off of a ca18, and not the usual .64 or .86 on most t25 turbos off of sr20's Hell yeah! Upside of smaller housing, spools up faster? That is pretty much the number I'm looking for, no intentions of being the next Backyarder here! :laff: I'm drawing a blank with what spec compressor I'm using...Stu!?! :) Once you hit that power mark i think it would be wise to fab up some front trailing arms to help minimise said torque steer, along with stiff rear suspension to keep the front in place... then you will suffer from lift off oversteer unless you get a good LSD... or just weld it, then its a whole different ball game of suspension setup and you wont be able to street it much without snapping driveshafts... you might want to run PS aswell :P The plan is to have a set of MRP coilovers (& bigger brakes!) in long before the new engine. I haven't pulled the gearbox apart (& have no intention of doing so) to confirm 110%, but I have what I've been told is a decent one. Hunting for a set of E-series driveshafts, if they break (with semi-slicks & a hard launch it could happen...) I'll just get a custom set made. Lift-off oversteer comes factory standard, even Blue Thing got that.. :P Power steering...........................no. More reasons why I like these cars so much: I'm not doing anything that hasn't been done before, so options/ideas are plentiful & lots of factory Toyota bits either bolt up or can be easily modified to fit. Also stops people starting conversations about drifting with me. ;) Edited July 27, 2012 by carbonboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted July 28, 2012 Report Share Posted July 28, 2012 I'm drawing a blank with what spec compressor I'm using...Stu!?! :) Ball bearing or nothing!!!!! I still think the gt25-60 is the way to go. But don't forget your only a handbrake and a couple of maccas trays away from drifting!! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted July 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2012 Blue Things clutch decided that it no longer wanted to disengage on Thursday, so with the help of a mate I managed to get home, grab a spare slave cylinder & get back. Swap it over, same problem. Cracked the shits & drove it home without using the clutch. Pulled the gearbox out today to inspect the clutch fork, showed signs of splitting at the pivot point. Pressed steel fail. Also, the setup for the C40 differs from the C5x series in that the pivot point (bolts into housing) is smaller, as is the clutch fork itself. C5x on the left, C40 on the right. Swapped the whole setup in. Get the whole shebang back together in record time to find that nothing's changed, clutch still won't disengage. :( Time for a new clutch kit or am I missing something here? Buggered pressure plate? :hmm: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYSTIK[RL] Posted July 28, 2012 Report Share Posted July 28, 2012 Once you hit that power mark i think it would be wise to fab up some front trailing arms to help minimise said torque steer, along with stiff rear suspension to keep the front in place... then you will suffer from lift off oversteer unless you get a good LSD... or just weld it, then its a whole different ball game of suspension setup and you wont be able to street it much without snapping driveshafts... you might want to run PS aswell :P um mine is booked in for more tweaks as of saturday next week ;) but yes I'm running an e58 lsd box and i have a spare as well :rocknroll: Hell yeah! Upside of smaller housing, spools up faster? That is pretty much the number I'm looking for, no intentions of being the next Backyarder here! :laff: I'm drawing a blank with what spec compressor I'm using...Stu!?! :) yep and its basically making boost straight away all the way to my redline which in 7000rpm. should be on the rear housing somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_kid Posted July 28, 2012 Report Share Posted July 28, 2012 (edited) Fun times with the clutch...... Just ditch the whole lot and throw a 4AGE+C52 in there... Setup sounds like it will do the trick, have a good chat to Barry about coilover setups in a high powered AE. He knows the issues you will face all too well :P Lift-off oversteer comes factory standard, even Blue Thing got that.. Power steering...........................no. Why does every one speak so highly of this lift off oversteer? Mine is understeer prone unless I run semis up front and KU36 on the rear, but then its slides like a tofu delivery car... :P Edited July 28, 2012 by Subaru_kid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted July 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 2AC clutch killing powerz!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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