You can connect a banjo bolt to either of the bleeds to attach more connections if you need them.

Ah yeah didn't think of that, I had to take out the drain plug on the bottom and put a bolt with rubber washer in from my other radiator I had, didn't have enough room inbetween the rails.

Yeah I'm fitting a banjo bolt to mine with a drain bung on a hose under the car somewhere for those times when you want to drain it but not remove it.

 

It didnt fit between the ae86 rails either with bung in hole, the wingnut part is too tall.

Edited October 25, 201214 yr by LittleRedSpirit

Yeah same as on the T18, should take all of 60 seconds to pull off radiator hoses and unplug fan wiring and 2 10mm bolts to remove mine haha.

 

I still have to use some steel or stainless bends for radiator hoses hardly any room in the engine bay haha. Even with the radiator tilted forward.

Got a set of falcon twin thermos here if ur interested matt.

Thanks Phil but I want to use the stock celica fans for neatness and I don't want to break any fins off the core to fit anything.

 

The idea Jake with the bleed under the car, is that I can save and reuse my coolant when it comes out. I will run the genuine Toyota stuff, its pricey as ʞ©$ɟ but lasts a long ass time, either the Toyota or the Subaru coolant as Subaru is supposed to be as good if not better.

Edited October 28, 201213 yr by LittleRedSpirit

Decided to use y engine flywheel.

 

This is simply because I think its less of a hassle to redrill the y flywheel than it is to tolerate a finicky starter setup.

 

This way I have batched parts that should work with no issues, once I can bolt the Y flywheel to the unique pcd 2azfe crank.

 

So I will have a solidly mounted starter, just like toyota intended.

 

The trade off being that I have to go down to a 9 inch clutch from 9.5 inches on the 2azfe, but in a lighter chassis, thats a compromise I can make.

 

I will need to lighten the Y flywheel aswell.

 

NPC can and will do the work for me.

 

I already have sourced the flywheel and clutch from a Y engine-w5x combo, and a fresh y bellhousing that is unmolested also.

Edited November 1, 201213 yr by LittleRedSpirit

So I have done a bit more.

 

I fabricated what I needed to to make the tensioner work today, I'm just waiting on a machinist to turn down the m10 tensioner stud to m8 at its end so I can attach the rose jointed arm. I used a stud that was splined to mount it on the swinging part of the tensioner, it works great.

 

I have also removed the oil pickup extension and I have ported it out and smoothed it on the inside.

 

I also investigated the slave and its clearance around the steering, the answer being, it just fits, but will need a banjo bolted line connected to it.

 

I also dropped th cooling pipe to Zenith for one final modification, just a slight shortening, a bend and then it will be finished in yellow zinc so its all shiny.

 

Once I finish the tensioner 100% I will remove the engine and box and take it all over to NPC so they can modify the Y flywheel and leave me with a 100% perfect clutch and starter setup.

 

Then its all about the chassis, as I have the motor box and diff there, just need to make a tailshaft to connect box and diff once its all in the car.

 

I'm getting impatient so I may just get it runnign then strip the shell and paint it. Either way I'm putting it together in the christmas holdays so whatever happens happens on that front.

 

So once I get my coil overs back, it will have its rolling gear under it. I'm torn about whether to buy those 6.8 kg neomoto 8S for it or to use my southernways. I kinda want to be able to smash dirt roads and mud puddles so I may end up with the cheap shit neomotos to just consume. Funds permitting that is.

 

Ill probably prioritise the build before the brake upgrades so initially I will just use the ra40 fronts and the MX13 reqr drums, then maybe once its all tuned and nice, I can try to sort something out then.

Edited November 5, 201213 yr by LittleRedSpirit

Tensioner is 100%.

Been thinking about the fuel system.

 

Stock pump is 135 lph and the fuel pressure used is 57psi.

 

I'm thinking Ill use a bosch 979 pump which is 165 lph and 72psi.

 

A little bit overrated, but not by much.

 

I need to check the specs of my lift pump. If it moves slightly more fuel per hour then Ill use that to feed a surge tank.

 

I think I might cut the rear floor out of the car and fit the aftermarket fuel cell and surge tank under the floor, and move the spare over.

 

Might save some weight and do away witht he molested wheel well.

 

I die ground some old rust repairs yesterday and primed them, and I also tidied the manifold and ordered the left hand nuts for the tensioner.

 

I'm ready to rip the motors out of the ae86 and the halfcut.

 

Ill sell the bigport n t50 combo with manifolds from the ae86.

 

Ill drop the motor and flywheel setup over to npc to have the flywheel modified so I can use stock Y series clutch and starter parts.

 

Then when I get it back I can fit the motor, box, coilovers, diff and all suspension into the shell and look at doing the floor repairs then when I am flaring arches.

 

I'm torn between parting out the 20v car and keeping the wheels or just letting her live on and then buying some others.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-CELICA-ZZT231-MANUAL-COMPLETE-RADIATOR-WITH-FANS-1999-TO-2005-9404-/170929067095?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cc2a9457

And purchased.

 

Legend.

Score. What a good price.

Yep, thought you would be interested and in Brisbane now you have a spare radiator as well, haha. Is the one you have mounted now a dual core one? Can't remember.

I honestly don't know.