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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

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  • Author

Got stuck into the rust in the ae86. I noticed it was coming through the panel under the roof layer so I drilled it out and got it out altogether to remove the rust as completely as possible. I also removed the rear 1/4 window trims and clips, and rubbed out the openings. I also rubbed around the windscreen, and rubbed down most of the rear 14 panels. I decided to bite the bullet and repair the fuel filler area completely. I cut out the old repair and the rusted bit of arch, but not until I used some paper to make a template, which I overlaid on a spare ke70 gaurd and cut the closest piece I could out of it. A bit of messing with a hammer and dolly and I had it looking pretty close.

Trying to go right over it, cutting sanding and fabricating all the issues away, before one final bout of welding to put it all back together. Then rub down the interior and paint it. Then finish prepping outside then Ill probably end up painting that too to make it last once its repaired.

 

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Edited by LittleRedSpirit
photo fix

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  • altezzaclub
    altezzaclub

    In 16 years time... "The Girl's AE86"

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    oh what a nissan feeling!

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  • actually the second strongest method of clamping a crank is level with the edge of the block like that, pending how much metal is on the other side, have a look at a deisel or an F20C, they have a spl

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  • Author

Spent quite a few hours over the weekend rubbing it down inside and out. Couple mates rolled by on Saturday and helped me gett he doors in a far better spot, got it aligned nice. Then removed mirrors, trims, and mouldings from the doors and rubbed em over as well. I have a couple small rust holes in the boot floor but it doesnt go through to the outer body, so I can just section it out and plate over. Will have to drop the fuel tank soon, and then maybe paint around it under the car too as its had a lot of work in the rear.

 

Looking to go over the whole thing, rubbing it down and looking for trouble spots, then once identified and rust sectioned out, fabricate all the patch pieces, and don't even think about welding until I can do it all in one session. I have the metal shop down the road folding me up some 1.6 steel I can use to repair the front windshield rot.

 

One of the least enjoyable things, someone has removed the sound deadening fromt he floor and firewall, but only about 92 percent of it, the rest is still there hiding under the undercoat they splashed over it, so to clean the floor up its been a combination of scraping, sanding and solvent. Its coming along though, Ive done the boot, its just the front passenger wells to sort now, and they seemed to be done more thoroughly. There are so many screw holes that need welding up. Whoever made this a race car just self tappered absolutely everything in, so if you ever raced it everything would have just rattled apart.

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Edited by LittleRedSpirit
photo fix

  • Author

I have collected the folded metal I needed from the sheet metal place. Its 1.6 thick so i can hammer it thinner and keep enough thickness. I had the vertical edge folded the same as inside of the windscreen gutter so it can sit neat up inside the screen recess and fill in behind completely. I must say I surprised myself with my blacksmith skills and after an hour of bashing I had it in place sitting nicely.

I also removed a bunch more stuff from the firewall and then I got into chipping away the deadening that remains. Its a shit job, lets just leave it at that.

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Edited by LittleRedSpirit

  • Author

Thanks Reed.

 

So now I have primer all the way up the firewall. Looks good.

 

I've also torn the back of the car fairly well apart. I cut out more old repairs from under the rear bumper and I removed the last couple of inches of the rear beaver panel by drilling its spot welds out all along the back and chiselling it off. I cut out the panel between the inner rhs boot structure and the chassis rail in the boot floor. Then snipped out the small rusted area on the other side. I was able to trimout another pile of rusty shit that will never go back in, to cut a long story short. I have now got to get some more sheetmetal pressed up and Ill shape it, then sandwich it in between the layers that make up the pinch seam, along the rear under the bumper. Then Ill clamp it up and weld it through the spot welds that I drilled out. A trim and some paint and sealer and all will be well. Seems like the sealer in the boot failed and then it soaked up water. The bumper hides it all anyhow.

  • Author

Whats left of the beaver panel.

Glass hatch has well and truly finished shrinking.

Finished priming where I ran out yesterday and where I rubbed down last night.

Weight reduction

I ended up cutting out the rust, splitting the rear floor seam completely, scraping out inside, rust converting and ordering the pieces I need from the metal shop to weld in more material.

Also bought more clamps and another wire brush that will get into tight spots.

I also wanted to improve stiffness of the firewall around the brake pedal/booster bolts so I found a spare firewall side spacer plate, and trimmed and bent the edges so I can put it inside the firewall under the pedalbox.

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Edited by LittleRedSpirit

  • Author

Have now done 1 stage of prep on the glass hatch. Since I want it to look like metal when done I will have to have a fine go over it with the lightweight filler and take out the small imperfections. I already did one broad fill from hinge to hinge to smooth out some overlapped fibre layers in the piece.

Looks a lot nicer with primer.

Also got this in the post from the motherland. A new top screen trim with the clips I needed, and the rubber seals for the sides.

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Edited by LittleRedSpirit

Looking good mate

Once you get into it and you see that you have made it better then it becomes enjoyable.

Edited by Trev

Straight!!!

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