The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

[LittleRedSpirit]

I'm now completely sick of the facet lift pumps noise. Its something Ill struggle to get used to, so I'm removing it as I have ordered a carter low pressure lift pump rotary vane type that is proven and supposed to be much quieter. Unlike the facet the carter will slow its rotation once pressure is achieved and it will not just keep trying to run at top speed. Sounds way better for a surge tank filling lift pump application.

 

I'm thinking soon Ill have to pull the car apart and remove the interior, weld some stuff up, paint inside, do the sound deadening, and fit the carpet. Paint the plastics and the hatch, then put it all back together with the new quarter window clips, and roof lining. Then it should be a nice clean finished thing.

 

At the same time I will remove the motor and have the 11:1 slugs installed and maybe a valve seat job too to enhance flow a bit.

 

I fitted the rubber bushed stock panhard rod again yesterday, there was a tiny bit of play in the stepped spacer I made and it annoyed me too much so i bought some new whiteline bushes and fitted the stock panhard rod back in, but not before I painted it with silver gal paint. Came up a treat. At the same time I put the koni yellow sport dampers back in and adjusted them to a mid setting 360 out of 720 wound out. Feels a bit stiff I might wind back 90 degrees soon to soften the rebound damping. Car sits lower as the konis don't seem to push up and search for height like the kyb dirtra rally shocks did.

 

I have on the shelf a freshly rebuilt steering rack from Precision steering systems that Id like to fit, as for some reason I liked the feel of the quaife 2.5 rack in the ke better than the sprinter. Maybe its because my daily is an ra65 with manual steering and the power steering arm mod done, but I think its more precise at the centre which is better at higher speed so I might look at selling the quaife rack and pinion and installing the precision rack with some Power steering arms.

Edited April 30, 2016 by LittleRedSpirit

[ke70dave]

Have you considered an intank lift pump?

 

I used a commodore lift pump in my ke70 tank years ago, adapted it to the oem ke70 pickup. Was Silent!

[Taz_Rx]

If you're sick of the facet you won't be disappointed with the carter. The main thing that makes them do quiet is the bracket.

 

Are the konis oil? I had the same sort of issue of the shocks wanting to extend with trd blues. I ran some trd greens before upgrading again to my shockworks stuff and while having the same sort of dampening characteristics as the blues they didn't always feel like they wanted to lift the arse end.

[LittleRedSpirit]

The konis are gas too but they don't have the tendency to extend to full height like most gas dampers. That behaviour is more like oil but being yellow they are definitely gas.

 

I'm not pulling the tank David, just swapping the pump which i can reach from under the car so its just as simple as straight swapping the part, that's why I didn't go in tank, plus the whole wiring problem through the bung as I don't have a jdm tank bung with the wires in it.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Weather is cooler now thinking about going to test and tune again.

 

Anyone keen?

[ke70dave]

I'll race ya in the beema.

 

Although it's currently almost manual but still unregistered.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Cool. Drove by PLR today and asked how much they would charge to fit my pistons and possibly enhance the valve seats and overall flow of the head. Waiting for a quote.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Borrowed a carb synchroniser today. Thanks Chris :thumbsup: . Discovered the adjustment was pretty good. Cylinder 1 and 2 were the same value 50kp and cylinder 3 and 4 were 49kpa. Not going to argue with 1 kpa. I really need a new tps to get rid of the small intermittent stammer as everything is smooth and balanced now but there has always been a burble in the thing that I couldn't get rid of. With the vacuum signal balanced from cylinder to cylinder Ive now confirmed through a number of ways the tps fluctuations I am experiencing are not mechanical. There is no play in butterfly 1 compared to the others, all 4 close in sync with less than 1kpa difference. I am experiencing an irregular tps reading that is fluttering up and down around the actual. When you give it the gas its not a relevant problem but at finer adjustments of throttle, off throttle or light cruising its a noticeable issue. It generally flutters upwards and only slightly downwards. Up to 1.5 percent and with no regular pattern but it never stays correct for moe than 5 or 6 seconds before it flutters again. Its just got to have some bad contacts. I went and picked up medicine man and he concurred.

 

I need Sam Q to email me back to sell me a new tps and some more custom trumpets. Its a bit shitty to drive without a good tps. Plus it keeps effectively scaling up the fuel momentarily when its flutters upwards which is probably one reason the fuel economy is poorer than expected. Did about 310klms from 42.5 litres. A lot of that was idling making adjustments and funking around with things. All the driving except for maybe 10klm was city stop go as well. I can make it drive better with a tps baseline tweak but it still flutters.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Put new tps in didn't change much. Motherʞ©$ɟer.

 

I made more fine adjustments to the throttles, which did help fairly well, and went for a spin. I saw it sent the tune rich around 6 percent, so I was able to smooth out and tune a big fuel input flutter it used to need out of the map between 1500 and 3500rpm. I reduced it by about 35 percent to find the ideal afrs. That should help me save a bunch of fuel as it was in the prime cruising zone of the map, and it runs smoother and cleaner and drives smoothly from 16:1 afr at 1 percent tps right through 13.6 afr at 6 percent, then reaches 12.7 by about 30 percent tps.

Its never pulled through the maps that smoothly at small tps openings before.

 

I've ordered some matting and release stuff so I can make my air box soon. I have some epoxy resin and the mould body ready to go.

 

Looking for a set of 4 reducing tees 8-4-8 so I can hook up the synchroniser to all 4 ports simultaneously.

[greenmac80]

love it. Tps are sensitive fckers.

i enjoy reading this technical stuff

[LittleRedSpirit]

Made more adjustments to the throttles, maybe made it a touch worse, as is the nature of fiddling. I have been looking for the causes of the damn unstable sensor readings. Found that the ecu earths were connected to the body not the motor and that seemed to help it a bit when I connected them to the motor but still not perfect to my eye. TPS is more stable than before at 0 tps idling but flutters when the motor revs, I think I need to make sure just the 2 ecu grounds ground on the motor, and I think it will work fine. Ill need to test some wires to see that I have only the ecu grounds there connected to the motor now and I think that should be it. All the sensors seem to be connected to just the ecu earths so thats correct for sure. I feel like I made some progress but who knows. Also the starter didnt click in today, thats the first time its happened. had to hit it with a mallet, and it came good as usual. Bugger. Its rebuilt and all.

[greenmac80]

i feel the pain. my 1uz has been a real dick. at least you can get live data to see whats happening to provide clues.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Yes thats true.

 

Met Brenden (mechanical sympathy) at auto power parts today. What a nice dude.

 

Drove all over to the regular auto retailers and got nothing except an oil filter.

 

Auto power parts was good as he at least had the nipple I need to connect purge in a more sensible spot and also was nice enough to order the T pieces I need for the synchro gauges.

 

Now I'm off to the back yard to sort the grounds and separate body function and sensor grounds.

 

I pray to allah, buddha, vishnu, the great serpent and the anunaki that it works the way I expect it to and I get smooth data and better performance.

 

I might even fit the factory oil cooler while I am at it, and I'm definitely gong to connect an idle up input for the lighting so the idle stays strong when the lights are on.

[Taz_Rx]

Does the ecu have an a/c request wire? My wolf does to compensate for the extra load of the compressor kicking in.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Its got a series of 4 digital inputs that you can connect 12v feed to from any accessories that drop idle, or they do a million other things, control ecu features that need external switching manual or automatically etc depends what you need from them. It also has an ac up on a seperate wire.

 

So made further tweaks to the throttles and I feel they are perfectly even.

 

I connected the 2 ecu grounds to the motor and the other 4 ground wires back where they were and while things seemed better initially when driving once I reset the TPS it was shit again. I also got a sense that the fan switching on bugged out the sensors more than usual. It took a correction of about 25 units over a range of about 2000 tps units from 0-100 percent tps to stop the flutter affecting the running of the motor, so in real terms its about 1.25 percent tps fluctuation for the most part causes all the problems. Its not a tonne but it means if you correct it out with the tps sensors calibration, then you get a bit of jerky running at 0-3 percent tps. Getting pretty over this problem now. My last hope is that the ground loop I'm experiencing is a result of not having the right sensors connected to the right sensor ground wire, the manual seems to indicate that the cam1, crank, tps and coolant temp sensors connect to one wire, and that the air temp, knock and a cam2 sensor if required connect to the second ground. I need to test the source of the wires connected to each of the 2 ecu grounds as they test as separate circuits within the ecu so maybe they are handled in that way to avoid ground loops and I have some cross connection that causes my interference.