The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

[Hiro Protagonist]

Haha that would be a pain. You should have used Adaptronic select ecu, but I guess you had to make your own being an engineering project and all. You would need some processing power as the algorithm would need multiple speed inputs, ability to compare them and a feedback output to control the tuning, its quite complicated unless you integrate with ecu I imagine.

 

The GT101DC was recommended by Andy Wyatt, Adaptronic ceo. He knows the good gear, and I have been supremely unmotivated to fit it for fear of it not working right and me having then molested my coilovers for no gain, but my faith was rewarded and I even got a good calibration out of it first go.

 

We were running a Haltech E6X

[LittleRedSpirit]

Finally purchased a welder I can do some repairs with, a BOC Smootharc 180 MIG. On sale at the moment and got gas very cheap and all the bits I need for about $900 new.

 

Pretty happy with that. First priority is to weld up a couple cracks in the floor and any other minor anomalies with the body so I can install sound deadening again, then carpet.

 

Ill also make a harness bar for the car and use that to brace the battery box. If I can work out how to weld thin panel steel Ill repair the rear arches and then I can paint shit nicely.

 

[springersrolla]

Loving the progress mate keep up the good work

[ke70dave]

Very nice. I have a smootharc stick welder and it really is a smooth arc.

[LittleRedSpirit]

You back in town?

[greenmac80]

very very nice welder what they don't tell u tho is the gas runs for 3 seconds after u pull the trigger. and you can't turn it down or off. SO if your doing rust repairs alot like i do you go through HEAPS of gas.

Have one in my own shop. and in two days worth of rust repairs it will kill a medium sized bottle. Also with the reg they give you we found if you set it to the MIG section it really puts out too much. got ours set alot lower and it started welding alot better.

Edited March 1, 2016 by greenmac80

[LittleRedSpirit]

Thanks for the tips mate, I think with the 2t 4t switch you have some control of gas flow fore and aft.

[ke70dave]

You back in town?

 

yeah mate, back in Australia as of about 6 weeks ago. Lookin for my next project.

 

 

Edited March 1, 2016 by ke70dave

[greenmac80]

Thanks for the tips mate, I think with the 2t 4t switch you have some control of gas flow fore and aft.

 

nope has nothing to do with gas flow.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Then explain it instead of just saying no. I'm trying to understand and learn about this and you're a tight lipped fella.

 

The manual says the gas comes on early to create the inert atmosphere and keep the weld ideal from the start and the gas stays on a moment while the weld pools to protect it until its hard enough to not be molten and at risk of oxidisation. I thought this was standard on all mig welders?

 

What I don't understand is the 2t 4t modulation, does 2 t mean you click once to start, and release to finish and does 4t mean click and release to start and click and release to finish so you don't have to hold the button down? The manual makes some reference to RSI from holding the button down, so that's about all I can figure. The manual seems vague to me.

[greenmac80]

i'm tight lipped cos i'm unsure. been a long time since i read the manual. its a function i don't use.

after buying it i had a spit at BOC about how much gas you go through. it keeps the gas going for 3 seconds after you stop welding. When welding car bodies its a ton of wasted gas. It is better for your welds. but... 3 seconds is really too long for MIG. It is becoming standard but hasnt been on any migs ive used in the past.

You cannot turn it off nor turn it down. The next model up in their welders you can adjust and/or turn it off.

 

I do recall something about the automatic feed function but i ignored it no good for me in my application.

mine is set on 2T and operates as a normal welder. press and hold to weld release to stop.

 

the fine tuning on these things is great. i could if i wanted to run a continual bead on a car body.

 

Great welder just be prepared to go through your gas bottles pretty quickly.

[LittleRedSpirit]

OK no worries, thanks for sharing your experiences mate. I'm happy to hear it welds great, I have a D gas cylinder and they have reduced all their gas prices, its 108 for the year including the first 2 full bottles free. So when I go through this one I can go to the welding shop down the road from my house as they are a gas agent and pick up a new one for free. Then a new one is about $40 or something after that.

[LittleRedSpirit]

So I switched to VE tuning and it was an interesting experience. A lot of reading and research to find my injector dead times, and my exact cc/min rating of the injectors and so on but well worth the effort to set up.

 

The car drives amazing, best yet for sure and after adjusting fuel pressure down slightly to 330kpa and entering all this into the VE data along with engine capacity, plus taking away the manifold fuel pressure reg reference which stabilised it enough for the VE tuning to use it as a constant, it all drove remarkably well

 

Its got a smooth character, sounds happier than ever and seems really responsive. I'm sure a fair bit of this was just correcting the vastly redundant and too high data in the injector lag table which would have delayed injection and hurt my economy which I have been chasing.

 

Packaged with the switch to VE tuning was the native use of the map sensor by the VE mode, which meant I could use less of my tuning map tables for basic engine running and load compensation by changing tuning modes to unused, tps instead of map x tps. This freed up one of the fuel tables to use as the vvti angle table. I filled this in with numbers I plucked from my ass but in accordance with the design intent of the system which I found well documented and explained. I also found possibly the most incredibly detailed physics laden report of flow characteristics under different running conditions of the 2az vvti engine as well as Toyotas own explanation of the system operation.

 

To summarise:

VVTI fully retarded (off therefore utilising stock cam profile) conditions:

- HIGH RPM

- OFF THROTTLE

- At idle for minimal overlap and minimal fuel requirement

- Cold start warm up - some late model vvti systems don't turn on until engine temps reach 50 degrees or more.

 

VVTI Fully on:

- Low rpm high load

 

VVTI partially on:

-low to mid load at low to mid rpm.

 

SO thankfully the research and testing was worth it and I was able to get it working in one afternoon. One side effect is I have an idle hunt right now that I didn't have but I think I just need to work on the maps and idle settings a bit to adjust things after the switch. I might even be able to add a digital input from the lights so that the idle comes up when the lights come on. That should allow closed loop idle, and when I get the maps closer I can use closed loop running of the motor. The long term goal being fuel efficiency that I would expect from this engine in this chassis, and the short term goal being more torque at part throttle by finding the right amount of overlap at each rpm and tps point.

 

Heres mileys boobs for the fans.

[greenmac80]

damn man.. how many hours you sat down and researched for. very cluey!

[LittleRedSpirit]

damn man.. how many hours you sat down and researched for. very cluey!

 

Far too many. and yet not enough at the same time. In detailed tech support mode atm, because the partial throttle torque gain has turned out to be my vvti for some reason being stuck at 3 degrees no matter what I do with my settings, which gives more low down torque than being full advanced at low load, but the full power isn't there. I've done all I can I got the engineers over there on it now. I sent over logs and maps so hopefully I've just misunderstood something or there's something else I can do.

 

matt