Mechanical Sympathy Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Cheers Mat, well met! All up it was a good morning down at the Power Parts store. Good luck, I'm sure you'll iron out the bugs eventually. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted June 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Yeah good to meet you mate, and I hope the webers serve you well. I'm up for a cruise when you get it running the way you'd like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted June 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 Ok two steps forward, 3 back... I decided there must be a correct way to adjust itbs so I did what I should have done a long time ago and I went to samqs website and downloaded the part of the silvertop manual that explains fuel injection. I printed the three pages that had the info about how to adjust and sync the itbs. I followed the method explicitly with the feeler gaiges and all and I was able to get it idling at 900 again and about .75 richer on the o2 sensor, which would indicate less air entering past the butterflies. Seems like success. Moved grounds around a lot and I cannot get rid of the ground loops, in fact yesterday i saw as much as 5 percent tps error while static. I disconnected the wideband and ecu datascan and found no change. I can test the sensor ground wire in the plug and find a connection to ground. I need to find out why and Ill be able to get it running smoother and more efficiently. Oh and just when I had it running right again it seemed to drop a cylinder, must have fouled one I assume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted June 29, 2016 Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 I wish I had your tenacity for this kind of stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted June 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 It takes a while to separate all the anxiety and rage from the exercise, like playing golf well. TPS calibrated to a record low number so was able to definitely get the throttles more closed than before. Had an occasional drip from a shitty hose clamp feeding the rad from the header tank so I swapped it out, and I realised I had used a copper coated steel pipe for rad breather instead of a solid copper one so I swapped it out for a rubber hose and changed the fittings to suit. Job well done as its tiny passage had already filled with crud in just a couple thousand ks. All clear now. Coolant topped up. I heated it up to get it to cycle the thermostat and my adjustment of the throttles is so frugal on air past the butterflies that I had to open the idle controller up from 61 to 64 to idle at the desired 850 to 900 when warm. I think I could even get a smooth 750 to 800 rpm idle with it if I wanted to. Might have to re tweak the idle up settings as well. The only downside is it still will stumble from a perfect idle sometimes, and this is due to the tps fluctuation error which I just cannot get rid of. Have to send out some smoke signals for the medicine man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 I realised the reason it was hard to put a fuel hose on the rail was that I needed to use a quick release fitting. Much neater I think. Polished things a bit and sent the yellow jacket coils back, had a faulty one. have already received replacements that arent yellow funnily enough. They look more like OEM units in colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 (edited) OK I got the quote from PLR and it was a bit shocking really. 3500 dollars to do a piston swap (I provide pistons) and valve job on a near new motor Ill be passing on that I guess. I assume it may not cost the full 3500 if they find the bearings and machining is on point but who knows. That didn't include any mention of balancing. Can anyone tell me from experience if they have had decent improvements from the performance valve work they do on 16v heads? At this point I'm considering just popping the head off and sending that to them if there's some improvements to be had, then swapping in the pistons myself but would require someone who knows motors well to guide me. Any volunteers? Any info on PLR in general? I'm going to make the fibreglass air box this weekend as my metal work guy will have the flange plate made for me tomorrow. The biggest thing I'm yet to decide is how to open and close the lid opening to mount it. I'm tempted just to have a segment that slightly overlaps and has a recessed edge that meets a rubber seal maybe. Then I can just strap the cover down with clips or something if its a nice match, but I'm still deciding that one. Edited July 28, 2016 by LittleRedSpirit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 Most shops will charge around $1500 to assemble a 16v 4cyl these days. If only you were in Vic I'd do the short for cans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 (edited) Got my airbox backplate machined with irregular edge so that it can get a better bond to the fibreglass. The main foam Blank. Yesterday I spent ages adding volume to the airbox as much as possible around the brake booster and clutch master cylinder. I also added some more on the inside edge underneath and 30mm more to the lower edge. I did some tests with the kikusui 101 tape and found it stuck well to the foam but if you multi layer it it doesn't like to stick to itself, so I abandoned that and now have tested simple grey duct tape which releases epoxy resin beautifully. Ill be cocooning the whole thing in that and then laying up the glass on it. Then Ill tidy the top edge and make the cap with the airbox as the base for it. I sawed off the top of the blank to make a removable cap. I was a bit concerned about the thing being too close once layers of fibre went in so I shrunk it fairly evenly all over by painting it with aerosol primer which ate back around 2-3mm of foam all over, and then I sanded it up and filled any holes and cracks with a soft plaster filler. I'm tempted to do some more prep so its prettier when done but I'm also pretty impatient to get it laid up. Edited July 28, 2016 by LittleRedSpirit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 Just filled all the imperfections in the blank with some spaka filler, so will sand it back as soon as its dry enough and then maybe touch it up again, then cocoon it in tape and hopefully lay glass tomorrow. I have some chopped strand matt and some beautiful aramid fibre that should be pretty good for the job. Its nice and not too much weaker than carbon fibre. The inlet will accept a 125mm silicon hose. I need to find a 5 inch outlet pod filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmac80 Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 loving this bit. keep it coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Had a couple more rounds of filler on the airbox, getting it smooth enough to glass up now I think. I'm pretty excited about this project, Ill have to mix up some resin and get to work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmac80 Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 your gonna make it in two sections?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Yeah you can see how I've cut the top off to make a lid. At this moment the plan is to let the plaster dry up to its fullest, then sand back smooth, tape on the funnel I have for a 5 inch inlet, and then glass up the lower part. Before removing the foam from inside the lower body Ill tape the lid mould down with the release tape and make a gap for a seal around the top by applying a thin foam tape as a spacer to make a gap between the overlapping edges. Then this can be removed as a space for a seal after curing. Then once its all cured Ill pop the 2 pieces apart, and melt the styro out from inside the box with thinners or petrol or something. This should leave me with 2 x rigid pieces that form a box with a seal in between. I've got the machined alloy plate as a composite to lay in so it mounts perfectly on the throttles, and I also have a couple 4mm alloy plates to attach in strategic spots as places I can tap threads for PCV and for idle control air supply etc. There will be one plate in the front and one down low as well to allow a dual purpose support bar so the weight isn't just hanging off the inlet all the time, and that will be at the lowest point inside also meaning when you remove the bolt it will drain any fluid that's caught in the bottom of the box away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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