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Ke11 Beams


drift freak

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Yeah, EF LSD diff and hopper stoppers big brake kit for the front. 5x114.3 PCD all-round. In hindsight a should have stuck with 4x114.3 so I had a bigger range of rims to suit but that will probably happen in the future. Wheels are my last concern at the moment.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Philbey - yeah I finds hey wear out real quick but I just try and use it only in the tight spots as those discs are ridiculously expensive. Just been leaving the bulk of the cutting to the angle grinder.

 

KE70Dave- mate I bought a UniMig 200 inverter welder. It welds from 10-200amps so the thin stuff is fairly easy to weld. Mind you you still need good material thickness to weld too as the rusty stuff just blows out even on the lowest setting.

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  • 4 weeks later...

So its been a while since I've posted anything here, I haven't had too much progress as the knee has been keeping me on the couch for most of it. I have however been able to get some stuff done in the last week. I headed to Jordain's place late last week to help him with painting his engine bay. We hooked in with the filler and etch and now its ready for him to finalize his engine bay setup then I'll get it painted for him.post-10705-0-20158200-1373886477.jpgpost-10705-0-01955100-1373886486.jpgThese two photos show how we shortened the strut tower braces after Jordain shifted his plenum chamber back to allow more room for his trumpets.post-10705-0-23588500-1373886495.jpgThis photo shows where the filler was needed. So working on Jordain's car really made my feet itch so after a weekend in Melbourne to watch some footy I got out there this arvo and started on the rust under the passenger side rear quarter behind the door. I started by cutting the rusted piece out and curving up a replacement panel with my bench folder.post-10705-0-86920500-1373886988.jpg I then cleaned it up and etched it to prevent further rust forming. post-10705-0-17672800-1373887000.jpgpost-10705-0-66966300-1373887008.jpg I then cut a replacement piece for the outer skin that was taller than the missing piece as I wanted it to tuck in behind the original panel to allow for a better edge to weld too. post-10705-0-71904700-1373887016.jpgpost-10705-0-06892300-1373887025.jpgpost-10705-0-57976900-1373887033.jpg I'm pretty happy how it has turned out so far, some more welding and some body filler to smooth it over and she should be sweet as :) I also ordered some split tubing so I can finally finish the wiring loom, it is out of the car at the moment and just needs the alarm and central locking wires connected then the tubing over the top and that part is sorted. Hopefully over the next couple of weeks some serious progress will occur as Davros el Davros is bringing his 10 around and this should provide some good motivation to power on with my build :)

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So I got a bit more done yesterday and today, mainly more rust repairs and started sorting the wiring loom.

 

I finished off the rear quarter rust section by welding a few more lengths along the top edge of the replacement panel and then etched it to prevent further rust.

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I also finished the front passenger pillar, I'd had to wait until I could get my hands on a can of weld through primer before welding on the last section, this primer was used to ensure I had everything primed up to prevent further rusting. The primer has a high zinc content which allows welding to penetrate without burning the protective coating off :)

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I then moved onto the rust holes beneath the rear quarter window, this wasn't too hard to repair with the larger rusty area being removed with the dremel and a hacksaw blade, however due to the tricky position of the smaller hole I used a die grinder to remove the rusty material back to solid sheet metal.

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I made a replacement piece for the larger hole and used an off cut that sat behind the smaller and filled it with weld, ground them flat and etched it up.

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I'd had enough welding and grinding for now so I focused my attention to the wiring loom. I had stripped it from the car a few weeks ago so I layed it out on the floor to assess what was needed to finish it off

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I required some more rolls of wire to hook up the central locking and alarm plus split tubing to cover the harness once it was finished. To make things easier on my back I brought it up to workbench height and starting connecting the remaining wires plus covered some of the finished wires with split tubing I had laying around.post-10705-0-33477100-1374049977.jpg

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F&*ken set myself back a few days yesterday arvo!!!! After not working on the wiring for a month or so I thought I had it sorted but was tired last night and connected a door lock trigger to 12V power and fried the actuator circuit board and a bunch of wiring!!! NOTE TO SELF always clearly label wires and make notes on wiring diagrams. Apart from that some more split tubing turned up today so after my mates engagement party tomorrow night I will be finishing the loom next week.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I've been fairly busy the last day or two, Davros El Davros from Rollaclub has had his KE10 at the panel beaters for a few months getting the body straightened out and we picked it up the other day and brought it to my house, he will be finishing the last of the mounting jobs like pedal box, steering setup etc. here over the next few months. While we were there we dropped another mates rolla wagon off to be straightened up.

 

 

 

I have made some good progress with my wiring loom now finished (WOOO FINALLY), the last of the sound deadener removed and I finally worked up the courage to roll the car over on the rotisserie. I have to be honest I was sweating bullets when we did this as I was worried it could possibly come loose from the rotisserie and damage some panels.

 

 

 

So the next move is to start stripping the underfloor sound deadener/sealer stuff with the wire wheel and finish the rust repairs.

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Edited by drift freak
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