Been a busy little Byronite then haven't you?

Good sutff.

Been a busy little Byronite then haven't you?

 

Have been.

 

Did this a week or so ago:

 

 

 

 

Then my mate welded it up (I forgot to get pics of the final product), the manifold is finished and mounted on the engine (this got done on the same day I got the engine running). Pretty happy with the manifold, it's just got a blanking plate blocking off the old throttle body opening and a new aluminium plate welded on for the new throttle body mount. It doesn't look amazing but it works fine.

Edited July 25, 201214 yr by rian

Very nice my friend, very nice. I need to pull my finger out. You're beating the shit out of me hahs

Bought my oil cooler lines today, I know everyone always goes for Earls/Aeroflow/Speedflow etc braided hose but that shits pricey and you need AN fittings and I cbfed doing all that. So I bought some Gates SAEJ1019 spec trans cooler/oil cooler hose (rated to max 150*C and max 400PSI) and I was wondering if anyone can see a problem with running this on a car that sees occasional track use? I know it's not the best but I'm pretty sure 4AGEs come from the factory with the same shitty spec oil lines?

 

 

 

Then I bought some shit to put my oil pressure gauge in, as well as new spark plugs.

 

I also wanted to know if anyone had installed an oil temp sensor before? I was thinking of either putting the sensor in the oil cooler lines like this guy did:

 

http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/42549/2511867990042310107S600x600Q85.jpg

 

or tapping a thread into the sump and putting it there. I guess the advantage of putting the sensor in the oil line is it's just before the oil cooler so the gauge will read the oil's hottest temp, but it could leak. Whereas putting it in the sump will be less likely to leak, but the gauge will read the oil's temp after the cooler.

Opinions?

get one for both sides, race spec :P

 

coming along nicely anyways man

^Could be cool, though I only have space for 3 gauges (water temp, oil press, oil temp). I could run 2 sensors with 1 gauge and have a switch to switch between the 2 sensors, but effort.

 

What do people think about using one of these to put the oil temp sensor in the oil cooler line:

 

 

I would just need to find a way to earth the sensor.

 

I could use a sandwich plate under the filter but I already have the factory 4AGE oil cooler sandwich plate there, and having 2 sandwich plates would probably push the oil filter out too far and it would foul on the headers.

Edited July 27, 201214 yr by rian

the lines are fine, and so are all the fittings etc. so long as you have the correct sized hose for the fittings.

 

make sure your oil cooler has some sort of flow limiter when its cold though.

 

id suggest you use the 20V oil cooler sandwich plate (possibly the same as the one you have?), i belive it has a pressure switch in it, so it only pumps oil when your up in the revs.

 

oh and don't use those shitty hose clamps, get the ones with the bolt. you get them from diesel spares shops.

 

Edited July 27, 201214 yr by ke70dave

I think the 16v sandwich plates are also pressure operated. Like this with a valve to stop flow when it's cold.

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the input Dave.

that looks like it!

 

nicely made bit of kit the oem sandwhich plate.

 

i had a 20V one, but i never installed it (never had an oil cooler)

 

never did an track work either, and i never had an oil temp guage to tell me if it was hot anyway!

grex make a pretty good sandwich plate, that's what my setup is using... but $$$$

^Yeah way too pricey for me, i'm poor :( .

 

Okay so this car runs now, but not so well. Basically the engine is 'hunting' or whatever it's called at idle. It seems to be revving really hard. Here's a video:

 

 

 

 

Has anyone had this problem before?

 

Here's some info that might help if anyone feels like figuring this out:

 

There is no coolant in the engine/cooling system.

 

ECU has been disconnected from power for quite some time (maybe it is reprogramming itself or something?)

 

The throttle body was completely closed while the engine was running.

 

I didn't let the engine idle for very long, does anyone think it would eventually go back to an steady idle? I didn't know how high it was revving (tacho not plugged in) but it didn't sound right so I just turned the engine off.

 

The engine was not doing this when it was in the AE82.

 

And just to confirm, this is the wire for the injectors from the interior loom isn't it:

 

Thick black wire with red trace, single pin plug

 

 

And this is where i plugged it into the engine loom:

 

near the coil/ignition module thing

 

 

If anyone has had any problems like this please post it up.

 

Thanks.

Edited August 4, 201214 yr by rian

The ecu is an adaptive unit. It learns as it goes. All being unplugged does is reset it to zero.

So that wouldn't be the cause of the problem?

Shouldnt be. At worse its getting the wrong information and will run in 'limp' mode. Mine is doing that as it doesnt have an O2 sensor. Do you have a check engine light hooked up?

 

Also do you know if the big/small port O2 sensors are the same?