Ke70 Typical 4Age Clutch/Extractor Problem.

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Sooo, as you may know I bought a KE70 4age.

 

Did a bit of hunting on the clutch issue. Would like some clarification from you guys.

 

My clutch line is pretty damn close to the extractors, the banjo joint alone, I can't fit my finger between it and the extractors.

(don't blame me for this ha ha)

 

Obviously its gonna cause issues with heat transfer. I have a bit of an issue changing gears after a long drive.

 

Q1: Will using a high temp clutch fluid help? Or will a standard one be OK with regular replacing?

Q2: Will wrapping the extractors with a heat wrap bandage thing help considering the close proximity? I feel if I add a bandage it'll almost physically touch the banjo joint, leaving no room for..

Q3: A heat shield?

 

I know the best answer is removing the clutch slave from that side but as funds permit (yes I own a corolla) its not quite feasible. At the moment at least.

 

Thanks for any clarification.

 

And ill look at a braided line asap.

[rian]

ke70Dave was telling about this the other day, apparently the proximity of the exhaust to the slave cylinder depends on the brand of extractors you have, different brands of extractors sit different distances from the slave cylinder. You could try changing your extractors?

 

By the way HEL do braided clutch lines and you can order them through Supercheap Auto, all their stuff is ADR approved as well. If you call them they can also make them in whatever size/fittings you require.

HEL Performance: 07 3869 3016

 

Pretty sure SQ Engineering do them as well?

Edited December 14, 2011 by rianwest

[B.L.Z.BUB]

I'm looking for a cheaper option than changing the extractors for the moment.

 

I'm pretty tapped out from buying the car, hence the questions about quick fixes/temp fixes.

[19914afc]

Did you see the fitting that Dave posted on your thread? just try one of them shouldn't be too much from an auto place or hydraulic place?

[B.L.Z.BUB]

I already have a banjo joint as posted in the first post.

[rian]

I saw 4AGE RWD extractors on AE86DC for $25 yesterday(I think?), they may still be there.

Edit: Just checked and they were sold.

 

But other than that I'd probably wrap the exhaust, that stuff works pretty well.

Edited December 14, 2011 by rianwest

[altezzaclub]

Wrapping will slow the heat transfer for sure. It will still happen when you idle after driving hard, but much much less than no wrap. (I've got it on the Altezza and the KE70)

 

If the brake fluid actiually boils you will have no clutch until the bubbles collapse so the higher the boiling point the better. I don't know how fast water contamination lowers the boiling point, but the manufacturers migh have those figures.

 

I'd do both.

[blktoy35]

heat wrap, i heat wrap my extractors and after a good drive you can touch the wrap without burning you fingers so the stuff really does work well.... + bleed clutch fluid, new brake fluid should solve your issue...

[ke70dave]

also remember that brake fluid absorbs water over time (well dot 3 and 4 anyway), so your current fluid may be old and yuck, and water has a boiling point of 100degC....not 300+ like brakd fluid does.

 

so your best bet would be to change the fluid that is in there at a minimum, with preferably something as higher boiling point as you can afford. The 'Penrite Sin 600' has a boiling point of 310degC, thats what i put through my brake system last week. $23 for 500ml of the stuff from autobahn, which should be plenty for the clutch fluid. drain all the fluid out, then flush this through.

 

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pdfs/SIN%20Brake%20Fluid.pdf

 

this was the highest boiling point per dollar that i found, you can go higher, the Motul 660, which is 350DegC i think, but thats about twice the price....

 

even the castrol super dot 4 stuff from supercheap (i think this is only about $11/500ml), has a boiling point of 280degC, which would do the trick, its only clutch after all, no massive brake heat here.

 

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_italy/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/t/TDS_RESSDOT4.PDF

 

heat wrapping i think is an excelent idea, that stuff is fairly cheap. just make sure you do a good job and see if you can find something that is somewhat water resistant perhaps. as if it absorbs water it will just rust out your exhaust. and you probably only need to do it in the viscinity of the clutch slave, 300mm or so. save wrapping the whole lot. though keeping the heat in the extractors will help the gases get out faster, so maybe wrapping the whole lot might help there . keeps under bonnet temps down too!

 

if the exhaust isnt actually touching the slave cylidner, then i think these two things should keep it under control.

Edited December 14, 2011 by ke70dave

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Cheers guys. I'll get it all today.

[blktoy35]

you need to buy some metal cable ties clamp down the ends of the heat wrap to keep it in place. i found wetting the heatwrap a little allowed me to wrap it tighter and neater.... just don't soak it....

[01sik]

and careful the fibres don't get stuck in your hands cos they hurt and infect like a bitch

[Mezz///]

Blktoy is so right. Web that stuff and you will get it so much neater. It's really great stuff :)

[rian]

Edit: found the link : Right here yo

 

There is a guy an AE86DC making kits to fit Saab hydraulic slave/fork units. Basically it allows you to eliminate the Toyota clutch fork and external slave cylinder and mount a slave cylinder inside the gearbox that pushes straight onto the bearing. I'll see if I can find a link.

 

This is what I mean:

 

Edited December 27, 2011 by rianwest

[01sik]

^^^^^^good idea looks good