Ae92, Supercharged Khanacross Car.

[Boosted]

Hmm.. don't know. The Rio Red was Acrylic (solid colour) from an auto paint shop, mixed on the spot. I also got the Satin black for the bonnet, used a full half litre on that and in places it was still fairly thin, especially if you've gotta polish a bit to get rid of the amateur spray painters mistakes with the gun. $50/Litre would be a lot better though. Maybe I've gotta hunt around.

If you drop the flakes out of the metallic colours, does it make it much cheaper ?

[Jono.C]

Well as far as i can tell unless it's a pearl etc it's just a generic price per Litre..

 

I did my Celica, the whole thing besides the engine bay in 2 1/2 litres, 3 coats.. That's door jams, inside of the hatch, inside the boot etc

 

Acrylic is better to spray IMO. I get thinners from Autobarn. It's $28~ for 4 litres! In Bunnings it's like $45 when i checked last week

[ninja-philbo]

budget spray jobs for the win!

[Jono.C]

My Celica i had to do twice because the clear coat clouded..

 

But factoring everything in It cost about $300 to spray including paint, thinners, paper etc and it came out damn well, i'm stoked with it. Once it's polished it'll be sweet

[Boosted]

Found 4L of Monza Red (Septone brand) at Supercheap for $100, they also do a silver, more like grey I presume as it's acrylic, not metallic.

Now I'm torn as to whether I should paint it Red or Silver, decisions, decisions.

[snot35]

Red, faster, simple! :)

[Boosted]

I'm still torn, red matches the previous one and is more race car. But if I went a nice grey and highlight some things black, C pillar grill and such. I'll paint the bonnet Satin black again as well.

[azza91]

red is faster lol

[Boosted]

And the answer is ..... <drum roll> ...................

 

 

RED !

 

And not that far off the original colour either.

 

 

Cracked the windscreen removing the trim :bash: :oops: , so didn't even bother masking it

 

 

Shows up fairly different at night with the flash on it though

 

 

The old shell had some rust, so had to cut that and repair it, unfortunately due to the amount of rust and proximity to body seams, the welds look like :yak:

So you're not going to see any photo's of the repair.

 

 

[Boosted]

I'm going to try and update this thread fairly regularly, just to try and keep me motivated. Not planning on changing much on the way the car goes back together, just refinements for the most part.

 

Found this interesting though. The GTi corolla has an extra brace on the rear crossmember to stiffen it up. Thread's in the Aus spec shell are there and seem to be in the right place, but seems as though they don't bother with the brace on 4AFE powered cars. Perhaps handy to know for those who intend on giving their corolla a hard time.

 

[Seventy]

Wow, hadn't check this thread since before the roll, such a shame it happened so soon and without yourself driving and so easily!

Anyway I'm planning on building something pretty similar, but with ae93 sx liftback (would have rathered a hatchback). But just wanted to know if you bottomed the engine out with your original suspension setup, as to start with I will be staying with stock suspension. The alternator and sump hangs pretty low on the 4agze in ae93 and my local track does have a hump, which looks easy to get air off. I'm thinking i might shift the alternator up as I'm removing the aircon but still need power steering, so thinking of making a bracket while the engines out, if not just making a bash plate. Advice? cheers

[Boosted]

Hi Adrian, you won't be able to remove the aircon, it's an integral part of the belt tensioning for the 4AGZE. Those that have removed it have replaced it with a stub shaft just running an idler pulley in the same location.

Standard suspension and a 4AGZE will probably mean a bottom out. If you're just planning on running the 4AGZE on the standard gearbox (which may not last long with the added torque of the ZE), you might get away with it. Supercharger only adds ~13kg to the weight of the car, so really not enough to bother it. It's the massive frickin' gearbox that really piles on the weight.

I had Kings springs on new shocks to begin with, they're meant to be ~220lb/in rate (progressive, so not exactly true, but that was the number I was given by King's Technical support) and I'm currently running 275lb/in springs. You may well get away with something around 250lb/in, but that'd be the bare minimum I'd suggest. If you look at my YouTube channel, I'll upload some footage of the first Khanacross I went too (BORMSA will be the heading), was a pretty rough course and I definitely bottom out several times on that day.

You're right, alternator does sit incredibly low on the motor and my alternator has the mud tide line to prove it. Only been in one truly wet event, has survived thus far though. More likely to give up the ghost due to age than mud ingress though I would think.

If you like I can Post or PM you a plan of my sumpguard. Dude on another forum has cut the same guard, though mounted it slightly different to use on his wife's AE92. I went to a fair bit of trouble to section the front mounting tube/rhs to get as much clearance as I could, biggest drama with FWD cars is ground clearance.

 

Link to other AE92 Build;

http://www.bmsc.com.au/forums/bmsc-members-rides/27639-fionas-corolla.html

[Boosted]

P.S (for last post) should mention my username is DAT610_WA on the BMSC forum. There's a 180B Datsun hiding in my shed under a pile of bits, patiently waiting to be finished once I get this damn Corolla running again.

 

Have been working away, seems to be taking a while though. But I guess slow progress is still progress

 

 

Have the rear struts and crossmember bolted in. Have swapped to standard springs and have opted to disconnect the sway bar to get rid of the tailey attitude of the car. Interesting note; the bar that came with the car is 1mm bigger in diameter than the rear bar that came with the 4AFE powered corolla that is it's replacement. Have opted for the slightly smaller bar on this project. Only reason it's still installed is in case my theory is completely bogus and the car handle's worse w/out a rear sway bar. Once the exhaust is in, it's near impossible to swap the bar, so dropping a link will work for the moment and give me flexibillity later on.

 

 

As a side note, bought a '98 Lantra, mostly for parts for an Excel rally car I intend to build sometime in the future, but the car ran and as I hadn't finished the Rolla, took the Lantra along to the most recent Khanacross. Managed to scrounge a full set of Rally tyres (all be it fairly worn) to run for a 'once off' appearance, and that car was fairly tailey as well. Really considered dropping the rear swaybar before I went to the event, but decided to leave it on to see if a full set of rally tyres made the difference, and during the event simply didn't have the motivation to jack it up and drop a link (had other issues to contend with and the man flu)

 

 

Interior hasn't seen much love yet. Nothing can go in until the gear selector cables are in place, next week/end will see the installation of more (all of the ?) interior and I'll be closer to swapping the engine/gearbox over. Next Khanacross is late August, really don't want to take the Lantra again, but will if I haven't got the Rolla finished in time to take it for a short test drive and check it's issues. Still need a few bits and Corolla parts in the local gumtree/quokka seem to be a bit thin on the ground.

[Seventy]

Yeah I was going to cut the original bracket below the power steering and then make my own brackets and tensioner mount for the alternater, but then I saw the power steering runs off the air con, so unless a power steering pulley fits off another 4a is is the right offset and all, I will probably just make a bash plate and try and take it easy.

I would like to just stiffen up the front of the car but I'm trying to spend the least I can as I'm basically only building the car with stuff I have already and it really only needs to last until i can afford and have time to build a 4age ke70 rally car, which shouldnt be too long. Might see if i can find some springs at the wreckers from a heavier car that will fit ae92 struts.

And pretty sure I have the proper 4agze gearbox with lsd

[Boosted]

With LSD ... you :abuse:

I so want an LSD for mine, would transform the car into a real weapon. At the moment I feel as though a lot of time is lost just spinning wheels.

I'd like to tell you that it'll be fine with stock shocks .... but I think it's asking for trouble unless the roads are pretty flat. If there's only a bump or two, you'll get away with it, but if it's real rough ... no hope. My sumpguard is 6mm aluminium and I bent it (albeit on the fairly unsupported bit) at that first khanacross with standard shocks and uprated springs.

The rear certainly doesn't need anything special, but that ZE gearbox adds near 40kg to the nose, in fact out past the front axle if you look at the gearbox position and that's the killer.

If your budget is small, create a heavy duty sump guard to protect the sump and gearbox and then just be prepared to smash away at it.

 

AE92 is a bit unique suspension wise, only thing of that era in Toyota with that amount of suspension travel (except ST162). And the celica's were also renowned for being under sprung. Still, if you hunt around for long enough, you might find something from another manufacturer. Choice of 'wander-around' wrecking yards is pretty slim in Perth since 'Pick-a-part' closed down about 6yrs ago.