altezzaclub Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 The oil light in The Girl's KE70 is coming on just under 1000rpm, I'd say 900rpm really. With the grumbly idle its up and down all the time as it peaks at 1000rpm then drops, so the light is on more than its off. A quick oil change of 10W40 to 20W50 had no effect, so I'm thnking of putting a new oil pump on the list. Repco don't even list one nowdays... Anyone have a better idea of what pressure the light comes on at, and how that effects the runnng pressure?? Anyone had to replace an oil pump recently? Any advance on a stock 4K pump for better oil delivery? Same pump in a 7K?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 Put a gauge on it and see what oil pressure it is running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted August 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 yep- told the daughter we would hit the wreckers and see who left a stand-alone gauge in their car... The thought of changing the pump makes me quail... is it time for the giant step to completely un-needed 5K pistons, or shall we soldier on with low idle oil pressure until next year sometime... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 (edited) Oil pump is easy, as long as you can drop the sump with the engine in the car. Which can be done on a ke10, dunno about ta ke70 though. Edited August 13, 2012 by philbey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crostek Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 (edited) I refer to it has the "need a new engine light". My oil pressure switch in the KE70 comes on at 5 psi, You may have something stuck in the relief valve of the pump holding it open, as it is unfiltered oil maybe some bearing material or dirt? I modified my oil pump, was a bit of stuffing about, but I put in the gears from a 18R motor and run a spacer the same as those in 2TG/18RG oil pumps to make the body longer, gave me 3mm wider gears and a sh#t load more oil volume. I have a brand new still in the Toyota box #k oil pump, was going to use it in the upright motor. PM me If you need Edited August 17, 2012 by Crostek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted August 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 Ah well, I'd better do somethng about it then!. I've dropped the sump in the past to tackle that dammnable gasket leak, it meant jacking the motor up and suspending it, but I couldn't get the sump out of the car at that time. If it has to come off the g'box then it will have to. Thanks Shane, PM sent.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 your talking about a 4k yeah? cause last time i checked, you just show a 4k your socket wrench and it pops out of the engine bay. Last time i pulled a 4k out, i reckon we had it out in less than 1hr! gearbox and all. certainly doesnt sound good for your oil pump, ive not ever had the pleasure of changing one on any engine (just jinxed myself havent I.....) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted August 15, 2012 Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 (edited) Even on the ke10 I jacked the motor slightly, it takes a bit of finessing but it's possible. Both times I've done it I didn't think I could do it but I haven't a shot. Surely someone has tried this on a ke 70 Edited August 15, 2012 by philbey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted August 15, 2012 Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 do recommend removing the motor to do a sump gasket. ive done 3 in car and all have leaked because it wont sit right in the back corners. remove the engine and do it. slight smear of threebond and replace all studs with bolts & washers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted August 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 leaked because it wont sit right in the back corners. yep- I fitte it without any sealant, thinking it would work best that way, but it leaked at all 4 corners. Lifting the motor in place and dropping the sump a couple of inches got 3-bond in there, but only the front stopped leaking. Just been a nuisance for the last year or so... ..and lying in bed thinking about it, I realised the only relief valve I can access is the oil filter over-pressure one on the side of the motor, the actual pump relief valve is in the damm sump! I'm going to have a replacement pump sitting there before I drop the sump anyway! I like that 18R mod for more pump volume, but I can see you need stacks of stray bits sitting around the shed to do things like that. No aftermarket oil pressure gauges at the wreckers either, they are a thing of the distant past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted August 15, 2012 Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 Ive got an oil pressure gauge in my garage ill never use you can have for postage. It just needs the hose and some fittings I think (might still have them all). Ill see if I can dig it out and get some pics if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 The oil pressure sender is what costs the big bucks. VDO guage is around $45, the sender is over $80! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 (edited) The one I have is mechanical. EDIT: And free :P Edited August 16, 2012 by B.L.Z.BUB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted August 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 (edited) Ive got an oil pressure gauge in my garage ill never use you can have for postage OK, the use of the gauge was to see if the sender unit was reading correctly. Let me see if the Pintara sender fits tomorrow, and if it doesn't then getting that gauge would be good. Once I've tried it I can return it or pass it onto someone else who needs it. That will say either new sender needed or new pump needed. I can't see how the oil pump is worn out when the motor isn't that high a mileage, still under 200k, maybe there is something else I'm missing.... faulty sender, shit under the release valve, pump bleeding around the gears, worn bearings... Edited August 16, 2012 by altezzaclub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 No worries, all it needs is one of those little brass V things that is on the tube which it never came with, which is why I never installed it. Annyone need an ammeter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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