mr04ag Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 My 5k with twin Dellortos still runs a stock pump too... Those plugs look good mate ;) Lean goes fairly white I believe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 If you can't lay your hands on a fuel mixture diplay and don't want to build one, then the only answer is time on a dyno or lots of plug cuts. Â The plug cuts mean driving along and suddenly turning off the ignition & putting it in neutral at the same time. You want the motor to stop while under load at whatever revs you're intersted in. Then pull a plug from each carb, or all 4, just do it on the side of the road, and take a look. Â I was holding 100kph as I crested the Tamworth hill when I did that plug cut, so the motor was hauling at 3000rpm in 6th gear and under load. What the plugs show agrees with what the FMD was reading.. Â Its time consuming and using an FMD is far far better, but if that's all you can do than that is it. Â Worst case scenario is..... If you have extractors then drill a couple of branches (one hole for each carb) and weld a pair of 18mm nuts on. Grab a pair of Commode oxy sensors from the wrecker and come up to Orange for a weekend. We can rig the FMD and that will tell you when its rich or lean. Â Read about it here- Â http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 My 5k with twin Dellortos still runs a stock pump too... Those plugs look good mate ;) Lean goes fairly white I believe? Â Really?!?! Sucks to be me then!! My su's hated the stock pump, leaned out something stupid over 5,500rpm. Â Â Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 (edited) I thought I was going to get more out of the Dyno guy.... He did say that I should be running lower than 120 main jets. Â Find someone with spare jets, chokes(although I'm thinking 32mm is about right), tubes etc. that has a dyno and let them play. Someone that tunes classic rally cars is your best bet. Get it close with a plug chop/cut like altezzaclub said, then get it fine tuned with a sniffer up it to get it perfect. It's well worth the money, it will be a different car. Â P.S. Man I hate having to convert from A/R's to lambda!!!! Edited August 31, 2012 by kickn5k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 My su's hated the stock pump, leaned out something stupid over 5,500rpm. Must've had something wrong with the pump, the SUs like low pressure and generally need a pressure reducing valve. A bit of shit under a pump valve is enough to kill the performance. Â Actually, I wonder if the needles weren't tapered enough to feed it? Do you still run them Kickn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coln72 Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Really?!?! Sucks to be me then!! My su's hated the stock pump, leaned out something stupid over 5,500rpm. Â My first 5k (std cam, 3kb's and hig comp) felt stronger in the top end running an electric pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Â Must've had something wrong with the pump, the SUs like low pressure and generally need a pressure reducing valve. A bit of shit under a pump valve is enough to kill the performance. Â Actually, I wonder if the needles weren't tapered enough to feed it? Do you still run them Kickn? Â Could have been something wrong with the pump it was pulled before I bought the car. I did see the dyno sheet though. I tried three different needle sets in it and ended going back to what was in it when I got it. Â No unfortunately, I don't have them anymore. Selling them has been my biggest regret with my car. Sounded awesome, like an angry MG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke20 king Posted September 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 What cam do ya all recommend running twin webers, 10.1 comp, port polished heads etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coln72 Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 Talk to the Cam makers or your engine builder, tell them what exactly is done to your motor, what your intended use is and a realistic red line and LISTEN to them. Â IMO - stick with a hydrolic grind. Sooooooooooooo much less stuffing around. I ran a Wade 169 grind (Lift (at lobe) - 0.269", Ex opens - 75deg closes 36deg, Inlet opens - 41deg closes 70deg) in my 5k powered club car and it would pull very decent revs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke20 king Posted September 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 I told my engine builder what I was do and look what cam he put in.. (Attached in this thread). I have solids and prefer to stick with it but thanks for your recommendation re hydraulics... I called Tighe and they said 140 or 150A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMJared Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 I told my engine builder what I was do and look what cam he put in.. (Attached in this thread). I have solids and prefer to stick with it but thanks for your recommendation re hydraulics... I called Tighe and they said 140 or 150A Â I'm not sure about those cams, they run some pretty wild lift! There is a pretty good thread on camshafts a few topics down: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/62114-4k-cam-grind-options/ My personal pick for your motor would be the Camtech 609 (or something similar like the tighe 424), more of a well rounded "balanced" cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 Well, take a look at that cam you have and then compare to Tighe. Â Kinetic Cams- Duration 289 &289, duration at 50thou 208 & 208, lift at valve 0.325 Tighe 140- Duration 287 & 288, duration at 50thou 240 & 240, lift at valve 0.488 My very mild Crow- Duration 270 & 270, duration at 50thou 224 & 224, lift at valve 0.4 Â So the cam you have has long duration so won't run low-down, but appears to open very slowly (no duration at 50thou) and doesn't open very far. (0.325") Â Ask the cam man some deep question about why he thinks those figures should work and why they are so different to Tighe's. A 50thou duration of 208deg is very mild and equivalent to most grinders bottom of the range cams. Â Is your problem still that it won't rev? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 Did it for you.. there are a handful of cam profiling programs in Google, I just grabbed this one. I was worried about the low lift that your cam specified, so I compared it to a Tighe 140. The Tighe has yellow dots in the graph, the Kinetic is 50% transparent. The axis are the same, and the lift is lift at the lobe, not at the valve. The Tighe valve lift is 0.488 with the 1.5:1 rocker ratio. Â Check that the cam is actually what they meant to cut, and do they expect it to have the performance of the Tighe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke20 king Posted September 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 Thanks for the info.. It now revs nicely till 6500rpm since changing to the 110 main jets hence i'm questioning my cam not being big enough. Â I need to take it out a few more times and check fuel supply or maybe put it on the dyno again. But I guess I just wanna know if the cam I have is undersized for my twin webers head work etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coln72 Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 (edited) To use mine as an example - it would wind off the tacho if I was feeling mean. The shift light was set at 7500 rpm. Something doesnt sound right with yours. Edited September 4, 2012 by coln72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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