ke70dave Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 Boost pressure is a measure of how restrictive the engine is. If you can flow alot of air without moderate pressure, that's how you make the power. But yeah a 3k is a Damn small head:s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_FNQ_rolla_ Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 THe 5k head was already done by someone else, but by my measurements last night, the valves come about 1.5-2mm from touching (so when its hot, I'm a little concerned about valve sealing, but anyway). but the funniest thing is they are so large that its only JUST going to fit inside the bore! But yeah a 3k is a Damn small head I do not know anything about “K” motors / heads, but from what I have read he is planning to use a “5K” head. So what I am asking is there any difference between the 3K and 5K head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RO78IN Posted September 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 Had an awesome morning... Very productive. Got engine stripped, block + cam + crank all cleaned and started working on the Crank. hopefully the link above works??:?:? can anyone help with how to load pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 (edited) can anyone help with how to load pics? When replying, next to the post button is a 'more reply options' button. Click that. On the new screen there is an Attach files button. Choose which ones you want to upload, once they are uploaded place the cursor where you want the picture and hit the 'add to post' button. The picture will show up when hit the 'Add Reply' button. Alternatively upload them to a Picture hosting site, then copy the image URL. Hit this button Paste the URL in and hit OK. Just remember to make sure the cursor is where you want the picture, Edited September 15, 2012 by B.L.Z.BUB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RO78IN Posted September 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 (edited) Motor at the start Components Yeehaa! double row timing chain Cleaned Crank Setting up for balancing Initial results... not too close! Edited September 15, 2012 by RO78IN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RO78IN Posted September 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 Ok, so i've been busy lately sorting out the Crank, removing all of the nasty casting lines, polishing and rounding, making one beautiful looking peice of art that no one will ever see! Anyway, been talking with our friends from Tighe cams, and it appears as though we might be best going to roller type lifters, which then begs the question of roller rockers. I can make most of this stuff anyway, but I'm pretty new to this push-rod stuff. So the question is, whats involved in modifing (or how are the manufactured) push-rods different from a roller rocker top as aposed to the ball top (I'm assuming there must be a difference!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted September 18, 2012 Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 i can't help you with those questions, but thanks for posting those images of the crank balancer, very intersting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RO78IN Posted September 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 Its actually a very interesting process. If you look at the 3 circles, its more - or - less a degree and magnatude the centre of weight is from the centre of the shaft. Of the 3 circles on the screen, the centre is essentially the 'net unbalance' or more correctly static unbalance. the two of either side show the 'wobble' of that unbalnce (or it really called dynamic unbalance). The dynamic can be a very tricky mistress on these things, especially on something that light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snot35 Posted September 18, 2012 Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 I don't think there is a difference with roller rockers? I'm pretty sure the ball top remains, but you'd be having a roller on the valve end so that it rolls across the valve stem top rather than wiping it. There would be more to gain here as the valve is fixed, whereas the push rod can move with the arc of the rocker. These movements are quite small so the gain would be minimal compared to the roller on the valve. Rollers on the lifters would also be good, but you don't have a hell of a lot of space to do that. I'd be thinking they'd be custom and you'd need shorter push rods as the cup height in the lifter would have to be raised to clear the roller. I'm also not sure how much space you have there to fit the necessary devices to ensure that they don't turn. I wonder if there is sufficient bore to actually enlarge the lifter holes? Maybe something from another motor could be adapted? Once again, I'm interested to see what you come up with :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RO78IN Posted September 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 Well our company also has a Diesel Fuel Injection division which utilises rollers for the cam followers in the high speed fuel pumps. So, currently on my desk i have a small roller which should do the job awesomely, and i think i'd be able to make up a nice little holder that will slide straight into the standard block. As you rightfully point out however, its a matter of keeping them straight and located... I don't think that its a deal breaker of a problem. I'll definately look into roller Rockers. For what i'm hoping for, i think it might be a wise move. Yum, billet roller rockers!!! some more internal bling no one will get to see... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted September 18, 2012 Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 Crow make/used to make roller rockers for k's, maybe give them a call! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snot35 Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 Awesome, if you can source bits from a similar application that are already engineered that saves a whole lot of work. This little project looks to be shaping up quite nicely :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 Did you compare notes with filfrederick about his crank? He knife-edged and lightened his for the twin-cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snot35 Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I'll just leave this here. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Corolla-Roller-Rockers-KE10-KE15-KE17-KE20-KE30-KE70-3K-4K-5K-7K-/261098975905?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccab632a1#ht_500wt_1192 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Hi, Nice build following this closely. As for roller rockers get the Crow ones if you can if not mini rockers fit. 1.5 rocker ratio small bit of machining and there in I'm doing this to a motor atm and mini roller rockers out of the UK $150 atm so easy cheap option there. But you also mention roller lifters. I was going to go down this path also as the ramp rate OI could grind on a cam then would be extremely fun and give me many more cam grind options. BUT......I didn't go this way as cost stopped me and I am making a bit more sedate motor. Reason cost stopped me is a normal flat bottom lifter spins in the bore it slides up and down in to prolong life and not wear on one spot. Roller lifters the roller must stay in the ONE spot the whole time it fly's up and down and not spin. To do this you can easily buy chev roller lifters cheap (I'm building 5K block 3/4K small lifter bores you would have to look at other roller lifters) After you get said lifters I was going to machine a key up and weld it down the entire length of the roller lifter then cut a slot/key way down the entire length of the lifter bore and lifters would slide in and then not spin keeping the bearing square on the cam lobe. The keys and the key ways would have had to been cut spot on and done right if not bearing would chew out cam.... Oh and also bearings on bottom of roller lifters are hardened steel. Your cam then needs to be billet, hardened etc etc a stock cast steel cam even hardened and nitride if you want won't last. So going roller lifters quite hard.......worth it for the better cam options that's up to you and cam grinder to decide.. As for roller rockers mini or Crow K motor ones easy job and not hard. Cheers Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.