Ke70 Diff Help !

[gt500biatch]

hey guys, silly question

iv got a worked ke70 with a locked diff, the diff is completely ʞ©$ɟed, looking to for a new diff (locked pref.) what should i get (good ratio's etc) nd i can't afford 2 get a LSD so locked will have to do ...

cheerz

[B.L.Z.BUB]

What engine do you have, if its just a 4K then just get another stock welded center and bung it in.

[ke70dave]

what have you done too my poor differential :(

 

reed: its some sooped up 20V.

 

GT500: Welding a diff just destroys them, you could ask a proper diff shop about a spool peice for the standard diff, never tried it myself.

Edited November 13, 2012 by ke70dave

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Ahh, then throw a T series in there and upgrade to LSD when you can afford it.

[altezzaclub]

What sort of locking are we talking here?

 

Welding one spider gear to another so they can't move at all??

 

or filling in a couple of teeth with weld so there is 3/4turn of rotation before the other spider gear runs into that block of weld??

 

Two ratios really, 4.1 from a manual car, 4.3 from an auto.

[NinjaMekanik]

 

or filling in a couple of teeth with weld so there is 3/4turn of rotation before the other spider gear runs into that block of weld??

 

How does that go? wouldnt that pretty much explode after not long?

[gt500biatch]

yeh its a 4age 20v pushing 132atw. and no dave i didnt ʞ©$ɟ the diff :( hahaha when i got it of the old owner the diff was already munted :( but now its worse, more jerking,screetching etc.

[gt500biatch]

@altezzaclub. would a diff shop be able to do the filling of the teeth ? sounds better than just welding :)

[gt500biatch]

also I'm guessing i just need the centre not drum to drum ? and any T series will do ?

[rian]

hahaha when i got it of the old owner the diff was already munted :( but now its worse, more jerking,screetching etc.

 

I think I know what your problem is, you have a locked diff...

 

But seriously, they invented the differential about a billion years ago because a non-differential axel was never going to work properly in a normal car. Why do you think going back to a non-differential rear end is an "up-grade" for your road-going car? Use your brain and replace your busted diff with a normal T series diff, or if it's a track car you should use your brain and replace your busted diff with a normal T series diff.... wait, did I just say the same thing? Derrrrrr

Edited November 16, 2012 by rian

[gt500biatch]

A locking differential, differential lock, diff lock or locker is a variation on the standard automotive differential. A locking differential may provide increased traction compared to a standard, or "open" differential by restricting each of the two wheels on an axle to the same rotational speed without regard to available traction or differences in resistance seen at each wheel.

A locking differential is designed to overcome the chief limitation of a standard open differential by essentially "locking" both wheels on an axle together as if on a common shaft. This forces both wheels to turn in unison, regardless of the traction (or lack thereof) available to either wheel individually.

[gt500biatch]

the reason why i don't want an open diff, in my old car i had one, it kicks out randomly when turning and i crashed it once, you counter steer and it can kick the other way randomly... so yeh.

[rian]

[altezzaclub]

@altezzaclub. would a diff shop be able to do the filling of the teeth ? sounds better than just welding :)

 

Any farmer could do it.... Fill a tooth gap with weld in a spider gear so it can't mesh with the gear next to it. Then do the other gears so all 4 hit a weld at once. That gives you most of the gear to rotate the wheels independently before they lock.

[It's_AUDM_Yo]

Jerking and screeching generally go along with welded diffs, Have you tried replacing/using better oil in it?

Or is stuff broken in it?

 

These diff's handle 150kw with heavy use pretty well.

Edited November 16, 2012 by It's_AUDM_Yo