hey guys, silly question

iv got a worked ke70 with a locked diff, the diff is completely ʞ©$ɟed, looking to for a new diff (locked pref.) what should i get (good ratio's etc) nd i can't afford 2 get a LSD so locked will have to do ...

cheerz

What engine do you have, if its just a 4K then just get another stock welded center and bung it in.

what have you done too my poor differential :(

 

reed: its some sooped up 20V.

 

GT500: Welding a diff just destroys them, you could ask a proper diff shop about a spool peice for the standard diff, never tried it myself.

Edited November 13, 201213 yr by ke70dave

Ahh, then throw a T series in there and upgrade to LSD when you can afford it.

What sort of locking are we talking here?

 

Welding one spider gear to another so they can't move at all??

 

or filling in a couple of teeth with weld so there is 3/4turn of rotation before the other spider gear runs into that block of weld??

 

Two ratios really, 4.1 from a manual car, 4.3 from an auto.

 

or filling in a couple of teeth with weld so there is 3/4turn of rotation before the other spider gear runs into that block of weld??

 

How does that go? wouldnt that pretty much explode after not long?

yeh its a 4age 20v pushing 132atw. and no dave i didnt ʞ©$ɟ the diff :( hahaha when i got it of the old owner the diff was already munted :( but now its worse, more jerking,screetching etc.

@altezzaclub. would a diff shop be able to do the filling of the teeth ? sounds better than just welding :)

also I'm guessing i just need the centre not drum to drum ? and any T series will do ?

hahaha when i got it of the old owner the diff was already munted :( but now its worse, more jerking,screetching etc.

 

I think I know what your problem is, you have a locked diff...

 

But seriously, they invented the differential about a billion years ago because a non-differential axel was never going to work properly in a normal car. Why do you think going back to a non-differential rear end is an "up-grade" for your road-going car? Use your brain and replace your busted diff with a normal T series diff, or if it's a track car you should use your brain and replace your busted diff with a normal T series diff.... wait, did I just say the same thing? Derrrrrr

Edited November 16, 201213 yr by rian

A locking differential, differential lock, diff lock or locker is a variation on the standard automotive differential. A locking differential may provide increased traction compared to a standard, or "open" differential by restricting each of the two wheels on an axle to the same rotational speed without regard to available traction or differences in resistance seen at each wheel.

A locking differential is designed to overcome the chief limitation of a standard open differential by essentially "locking" both wheels on an axle together as if on a common shaft. This forces both wheels to turn in unison, regardless of the traction (or lack thereof) available to either wheel individually.

the reason why i don't want an open diff, in my old car i had one, it kicks out randomly when turning and i crashed it once, you counter steer and it can kick the other way randomly... so yeh.

@altezzaclub. would a diff shop be able to do the filling of the teeth ? sounds better than just welding :)

 

Any farmer could do it.... Fill a tooth gap with weld in a spider gear so it can't mesh with the gear next to it. Then do the other gears so all 4 hit a weld at once. That gives you most of the gear to rotate the wheels independently before they lock.

Jerking and screeching generally go along with welded diffs, Have you tried replacing/using better oil in it?

Or is stuff broken in it?

 

These diff's handle 150kw with heavy use pretty well.

Edited November 16, 201213 yr by It's_AUDM_Yo