It seems that until I change the jets, about 10L/100km is going to be what I see, which I can live with. There's more (less?) in it through some more tuning, so that's the good news. :yes:

 

I remember the good ol days when I used to pump fuel for mum, you could fill the falcon for $60-70. Was a big deal back in about '99 when it went over $1!.... man that makes me feel old.

 

I'm not even going to start a rant about TA.

 

The first time I remember being allowed to pump fuel for my Dad, it was 63c/L (& a Datto 200B), I also remember the uproar when it cracked the ton. I don't consider myself old (mostly denial really), so that means you're not old.

 

I paid 178.9/l for pulp this week. so expensive

 

I paid 179.something/L last night, saw 10.36L/100km. Am trying United 98 this time around just to add to the little experiment. Am also seeing leaner mixtures in the mid-range, but this could be due to lower ambient air-temperatures more than anything. This was all setup in 30 degree weather, tuned again in mid-20's weather, now it's getting down to the mid-teens & single-figure temperatures when I drive. I'm not complaining...at least once the heater warms up anyway.

Another person risking his sanity

 

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=24371

Can't help but think that that bloke has a bit more of an idea as to what he is doing than what I did (do?). He may still have a few late-night troubleshooting sessions though, best of luck to him!

 

Edit: Although he is in the UK, I found they are big on this conversion over there (mainly on 2L Ford Zetec engines) so he shouldn't have too many dramas.

Edited June 4, 201412 yr by carbonboy

Blue Thing is loving the colder temperatures (me, not so much), regularly seeing leaner readings from the wideband & low-9's L/100km. Have been doing some reading into what the maximum ignition advance I can run is, 35-38º seems to be the ballpark. Need to find the charger for the laptop so I can doing some tweaking. :(

 

Had a small scare, noticed that there was a chocolate-milkshake-like residue on my air filters. It was coming from the vent hoses I have there that come from the catch-can, venting the oil vapour. Checked the engine oil, no water there. Checked for bubbles in the radiator, none. Removed the catch-can & hoses & they were clogged up with the chocolate-milkshake goop, there was also a few tablespoons of water in the catch-can. Probably a good thing I used stainless steel wool as a filter medium or it may have been messier. Currently running with no filter in the catch-can to see if it makes any difference.

 

No damage was done, but it's niggling me trying to work out how the water got there. It might possibly have gotten there while driving in our recent weather, but the more plausible theory is that it's a buildup of condensation. Other than that, I've got nothing.

Edited June 26, 201412 yr by carbonboy

That chocolate milkshake buildup has happened again, made some revisions to the setup. The catch can has been moved from under the intake manifold to near the battery, the charcoal canister purge line no longer goes to it but back to the factory location & the carburetor fuel bowl vent lines have been connected back up to the charcoal canister. Here's hoping that I have less of this drama.

 

Edited July 10, 201412 yr by carbonboy

In the past when I ran a catch can on my 2T, I used to get the same sort of stuff, along with a gradual build up of water.

So this, to an extent, is somewhat normal? I've got replacement filters coming in the mail from the UK, as this oil/water mix eats away at them & mine are...sort of mangled. They're ~AUD$55 a pair posted, so not too bad.

 

Also noticed that when I had the fuel bowl vent lines connected to the charcoal canister, it leaned out massively when applying the throttle. No load, just revving while stationary. Disconnect vent lines from canister, runs well again. Fine, they can stay that way.

Yep more than likely to be condensation, hot oily air going into a relatively cold catch can leads to that exact muck.

Same as Parrot This also used to happen on my old Mk 1 cortina, bottom of the can had milky oil in it and a little bit of water as well.

It's not legal, but best to vent to atmosphere.

That oily vapour into intake reduces O2 going into your engine, so you'll definitely see better performance and A/F readings with out it.

Did the stuff in your catch can look something like this?

 

Yep. Plus it swam in filthy water

I'm having these crazy thoughts of trying something like the water-absorbing crystal-things (normally used in gardening to hold moisture in the soil) inside the c/c & see what happens. That dark brown muck is the water you mention.

24 hours later, there's about 5mm of water in the c/c.

 

 

Let the experimenting begin.

 

Edited July 21, 201412 yr by carbonboy

This is probably how Brocky came up with the Polariser!

This is probably how Brocky came up with the Polariser!

 

:lolcry:

 

Oily gel-blobs, not sure if success or failure. I'm going with *meh*.

 

 

Part 2: One-way valve installed just before the catch can breather hose splits into two.

 

Quite happy that an engine I put together is still running 10,000kms later to be able to give it the due service. Fresh oil/filter, 80w transmission fluid, flush/fill clutch/brake fluid with DOT4, new spark plugs & air filters. Happy days! :D