Yeah I'm going with a 32/36 DGV weber carbi with manual choke

That's a pretty common setup. Check out the Rides section and PM a couple of guys to find out what cam they use and what other work like higher compression they did.

 

All in all, a cam cut, a good carb and a free-flow exhaust is stage one. To that you could add a lightened flywheel, a head skim and porting, and an electronic dizzy.

Old post but question about headers, those 4-1 headers do they need a slight shave to make them work with the 4KC manifold, I used a spare manifold I had laying around one without the egr, when I went to mock up the headers theres is a slight gap in the middle of the headers when it sits against the engine and I also had to shave a bit of the manifold to squeeze the headers in but I think I need to shave the header surface to make it fit better.

 

The four into one exhaust extractors, obviously have to have "gaps" in the mounting flange, to accommodate the inlet manifold.

Most manufacturers leave a 'joiner strip" of flange, that keeps all three flanges in the same plane.  This joiner strip, passes under the inlet manifold, as is usually not very wide, so could well "warp" slightly, over time.

You can see them on my 4K engine, which has an EFI manifold from a 7K engine fitted.

The single biggest problem, I have come across, is the common manifold stud mounting, between inlet & exhaust manifolds.  If these flanges are a different "thickness", then the heavy/thick washer, will not sit flat.  I've fashioned washers over the years, to ensure when the nut is tightened up; that the washer sits flat, & provides equal clamping on both the inlet & exhaust manifold.  Alternatively, you could skim both inlet & exhaust manifold flanges, so that they are the exact same thickness, at the point where the common manifold studs tie down.

Cheers Banjo

 

Edited February 23, 20242 yr by Banjo

Yeah thanks for that I'm not sure if its the brand of extractors I purchased is causing it, or its just the thickness of exhaust flange is different to manifold, I wanted the stainless steel ones so I purchased those, but maybe it would of been better to purchase the hurricane or wildcat brand for ease of fitment.

'maybe it would of been better to purchase the hurricane or wildcat brand for ease of fitment. '

Nope, they're just the same.. grind a couple of corners so they fit past the inlet manifold OK, grind a weld back here and there, and cut spring washers in half and glue the halves onto one manifold to make it level with the other...

..and don't use the double manifold gaskets they sell, get a one-piece.

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

 

Yeah cool, good to know the ones I purchased are the same, yeah ended up buying the permaseal manifold gasket em30 one piece gasket, I'm waiting for my throttle wheel for my weber 32/36 but been a week hopefully it arrives this weekend, but I might just take my headers off and manifold and do a bench test to see if they sit flat together or needs more modification, as I did use a file to shave abit of the intake manifold to finally squeeze it passed the headers and sit on the block but the only problem was the middle of the headers wasnt sitting flush ill remove from the engine and have to see thanks for the advice.

Hey Guys Need some help again, I'm finally getting my exhaust done, and having dramas with the extractors I have taken photos to clarify some stuff I have mentioned previously and may be able to help point me in the right direction.

So I have gone to M10x1.25 exhaust manifold studs, and as you can see the middle right side the header piping hits the nut, easy enough fix shave down the side until it threads all the way or gind a sized nut with a skinny width profile.

Now I have installed the Permaseal Manifold Gasket - EM30

I am having a problem with clamping, the 4k intake manifold is mint seals up nicely and there is no gaps, but as for the headers the middle of the headers outlet flange there is a gap, I'm not talking about the side middle gaps for the intake manifold I'm talking about the actually mid headers flange has a gap. I used my feeler guage and 0.05mm feeler guage goes straight down the left side until it hits the bottom of the pipe so that means only the top of the middle left header has a gap, the right middle is okay. So my only conclusion is these are poorly welded and or warped, and you can also see in the previous comment I made with the headers the middle outlet pipes are alot more spread out compared to the wildcat and or hurricane headers. 



Or another option is which I don't think is the proper or best way to do it as I don't want to keep having to deal with thee problem is use the gasket that came with it to fill the gap.

 

Picture of my port job on my Intake Manifold with Die Grinder and Carbide Bit

I think I am just going to bite the bullet and get the hurricane headers I like the blue and I know alot of people have ran them on their 4k ke70s, where as a ebay headers that has been manafactuared who knows where may not be the best. Any thoughts or Ideas of what I should do would be greatly appreciated.

" these are poorly welded and or warped"... Likely... When we weld a manifold it gets bolted to a head beforehand to minimise the warping.

What does a straight-edge along the whole extractor face show? The middle two bent to one side or not parallel vertically??

The best answer would be to get them ground flat right along the mating face, which would be good if it was $100 or less.

It would be cheaper to heat the middle pair up with an oxy/acetylene set and twist them to the right place once red-hot. Simple to heat up, but hard to get lined up just right. You could try lightly bolting just the headers on and heating them up, then pulling them flat with the bolts when soft.

Unless the bolts/nuts pull it straight and flat, then the gasket will blow out all the time. Was it up to torque when you put the feeler gauge down it?

Quite often the flange for after market headers is thinner than the original exhaust manifold AND INTAKE MANIFOLD, so it doesn't get clamped down properly in the middle where the bolts have to bridge across both. Have have to shave the ears of the intake manifold down to the thickness of the exhaust so they both get clamped evenly

Extractors alone won't do much, the 4K's stock manifold is already decent for low rpm torque so you really need the full 2 inch system and some head work before you'll notice anything.

UPDATE: Wildcat 116 4K Extractors Came today, just installed them, and yeah ive done myself a mischief, this is a learning lesson, always buy once, poor man pays twice, so yeah the Wilcat Extractors fit like a glove to the block and had no gaps, even without the two bolts tightened all the way the two extractors bolts that hold the extractos no gaps between the engine face and the extractors.

My only problem now is, I chewed to much metal off from the intake manifold, I guess those ebay stainless ones were alot thinner, my options are I machine the Wildcat Flange down to match the intake manifold, or I cut some washers in half, like halfmoon washers and superglue them to the intake manifold and bolt them up, or just source another intake manifold and do it properly, which I think from learning from this is always try to do it properly if you can first.

I will see if I can get another intake manifold if not I will go the half moon washer route.
Lesson learnt always buy reputable parts.

No sweat, that is common. Measure the thicknesses exactly, find spring washers of that thickness and cut them in half. Glue or tackweld the half-washers onto the normal heavy washers and use them to even the flanges. I've had to slice the bigger washers to fit sometimes, or trim welds back.

You could put bits of wire in the gap instead, I've seen that done. You can resurrect the other extractors with a little work.

 

Edited July 29Jul 29 by altezzaclub

Always been an issue with K Series manifolds, where mixing & matching of manifolds has taken place over the years; even without extractors being fitted. 

If you've got some stud spare length, as your picture depicts; I would get a bit of flat bar, about 5mm thick. Drill a hole in it, so that it fits over the stud, & then carefully cut to length, then file a step in it, to accommodate the difference in the manifold thickness, at the mounting point.  That's what I did, & have never had an issue since.  there is a 1 - 2 hours required, but worth getting it right.

Cheers Banjo 

Yep I think that is the go, even these washers in the picture normal m10 washer if i grind the side down keeping the middle circle it will still fit on the stud and fill the gap so i think I'm gonna grind down some washers and do the superglue method, thankyou for everyones input and help.