Any one got any ideas what the possible cause of the following is

I drove about 5KLM no problems smooth as a whistle & parked at the chemist. About 15 mins later came out & could not start the car.

She tried & would try to run if you kept pumping the accelerator but no go

I changed the fuel filter, Fuel pump but still nothing. I haven't checked the filter in the carby yet. I had a look at the Fuel cut off solenoid it seems to be working but unsure if the holes at the end are supposed to be fully open when it is engaged. They only open slightly when you turn on ignition

This car has only 100,000klms on clock original mother in laws car.

Any ideas??

Points are probably burnt out or not opening.

Strip the carby and hose out all the jets and drillings with petrol or carby cleaner, it sounds like there is shit blocking fuel flow either in a jet or a drilling.

 

Check the points for gap as blzbub says, and if they need opening up check the timng afterwards. Check the spark with a screwdriver across the open points and ignition on in case the condensor is leaking and the spark is very weak.

 

If a fuel filter is blocked I'd expect it to start and rev fine, but stutter when the load comes on as you drive away. For it not to start the float bowl would be almost completely dry, which is pretty unlikely.

yeah to go from hero to zero i don't think would be anything fuel related except the fuel solenoid (would be fairly rare for that to fail).

 

First check id do is check for spark by removing a spark plug, leaving it attached to the lead, and grounding the body and seeing if it sparks when you crank it.

 

(Using a rag or something to hold the spark plug...)

if starting while cranking then stopping when you release key, check coil ballast resistor by bypassing

Another remote possibility, check the low tension circuit from the coil to the points (if you have no spark and you have a point gap). Sometimes the wire can break at the distributor body. A common issue on my old Datsun 1200

Hi Guys

Thanks for the response

Never thought about the coil or the ballast as the motor did run while I had the ignition starter engaged & pumping fuel

As soon as I let the key return to normal run position no go

If I hold the pedal hard down she wants to run but will not when I let the key go

I thought it might have been flooding but I don't think so

I'll give the coil a go tomorrow

This is dumb- How do you bypass the ballast--- Just connect positive to negative with a wire??

 

You'd reckon I know a lot of this stuff as I've had Chev 327/350 & Cleveland 351 donks

 

 

Hey if I change the carby what would you guys recommend??

 

The manual I have got for this car is bad (it's Haynes or Gregory s but nothing in it really)

I need a decent one so have to have a good look around

 

Once again guys I appreciate the time for your response

Points are probably burnt out or not opening.

 

Hi How do you join this club

Do have a club plates etc??

if starting while cranking then stopping when you release key, check coil ballast resistor by bypassing

 

I'll try the balalst tomorrow

Thanks for the heads up

Hi How do you join this club

Do have a club plates etc??

 

Huh?

Strip the carby and hose out all the jets and drillings with petrol or carby cleaner, it sounds like there is shit blocking fuel flow either in a jet or a drilling.

 

Check the points for gap as blzbub says, and if they need opening up check the timng afterwards. Check the spark with a screwdriver across the open points and ignition on in case the condensor is leaking and the spark is very weak.

 

If a fuel filter is blocked I'd expect it to start and rev fine, but stutter when the load comes on as you drive away. For it not to start the float bowl would be almost completely dry, which is pretty unlikely.

Strip the carby and hose out all the jets and drillings with petrol or carby cleaner, it sounds like there is shit blocking fuel flow either in a jet or a drilling.

 

Check the points for gap as blzbub says, and if they need opening up check the timng afterwards. Check the spark with a screwdriver across the open points and ignition on in case the condensor is leaking and the spark is very weak.

 

If a fuel filter is blocked I'd expect it to start and rev fine, but stutter when the load comes on as you drive away. For it not to start the float bowl would be almost completely dry, which is pretty unlikely.

 

Thanks

I looked at your photos. They look like Su carbs you have. What other carby ok for a 3k

I've never been very good at carby's

Huh?

 

Sorry for lack of information

Does this club have a Melbourne Vic Australia branch you can join

Like a lot of car clubs you can get discount rego for old cars . I don't drive this that much but do look after the ol girl

No, we don't offer club rego. Try Toymods

manifolds are the limiting factor, & the most common four are-

 

Stock manifold with adapter plate takes a downdraught Weber 32/36

Lynx manifolds for twin SUs

Single Weber DCOE manfolds are still made new, Redline I think or Weber importers.

Twin DCOE manifolds are also new. http://www.weberperf...php?cPath=29_51

 

and that is the order of price and performance I'd say. The coolest challenge would be bike quads, vacuum demand carbs like SUs with needle jets, and you just need a simple home-made manifold. Keihin or Mikuni.

 

So if you're after a simple performance increase go for the 32/36 D/D, usually off a Ford Cortina but also on a myriad of Euro cars from the 70's and 80s.

 

For a bit more go and fuel economy try and find a Lynx SU manifold and a pair of inch & 1/4 SUcarbs like mine.

 

..or its probably easier to get a single DCOE Weber and fit that.

 

Your other question raises an interesting point that has not been addressed by the Govt- what is the status of a forum?? We are different to a car club, as you will find out if you try to join Toymods. They want names, addresses, telephone numbers, sponsors.. all the stuff a bank wants! Forums are pretty laissez-faire and no-one has the same legal status as formal club officers, which is probably why they don't get recognised as agents for legal documents like rego.

Edited June 9, 201412 yr by altezzaclub

for bypassing ballast resistor just put a wire accross the two terminals or move all wires to the terminal Connected directly to coil.

 

 

If youve got a multimeter you could just measure resitance of it