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Heater Probs In Ke 30 C Motor


afghan

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Hi guys

Heater not working in KE 30-C motor

Not sure if a mechanic has changed the hose set up at some stage

Maybe control cable attach point is broken as pretty lose when moving to heat(no resistance)

I don't have any control type valve in engine bay for the heater hoses

Anyone got some pics or diagrams of hose set up or heater box controls

my camera to poor quality

 

Cheers

John

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Have you taken a look at the heater hose tap? There is a cable that connects it up, so its best to take a look, but the chances of the cable snapping is unlikely to impossible. The tap might have stuffed its O rings.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Guys

Thanks for the response

I have no tap in engine bay

The hoses seem connected

I replaced he water pump a while ago & hooked all up the same.

I Have a copper pipe running along the head & the hose runs to the heater.

The other hose from the heater seems to go back to the rear of the head.

I need to try & buy original manuals

My motor 3KC

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The tap in 30's and 55's is in the cab. Stick your head in the passenger side foot well and have a look were the copper pipes come through the fire wall. The rod of heater controls clips into the tap, make sure its still connected. Its possible a passenger might of accidentally kicked the control wire out of the clip.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys

I tried Taz_Rx thought.So I checked this.

 

The bottom WARM slider control is broken on the behind the fascia console.

Tried moving the internal control ( near the inlet/outlet on passenger side) forward toward passenger & back towards firewall- after driving around still no heat on either setting.

 

I hope there is no fuse needed for this as I took the fuse that runs the clock & internal lights out. Kept flatting battery when not in use for extended periods.

The fan works so I am guessing its not got a solenoid- please don't be so simple!!!

 

I have taken a couple of shots of the engine bay.

I'm really worried about getting new heater hoses. Can't find them any where.

Do you guys know what size they are OR what do you use to replace them?

I've been a bit shy to pull them off in case I get stuck. I am down to one car at the moment.

 

Sorry about the oil & water marks. Had a problem with overheating over summer

Oil leak is driving me nuts.

Long story but I need a better mechanic - That's what happens when ya get your hips replaced & can't do it your self.

I'm saving up for a Engine stand & hoist.

Thanks for for input so far

Johnpost-18951-0-94938400-1435476215_thumb.jpgpost-18951-0-55996900-1435476310_thumb.jpgpost-18951-0-74583000-1435476499_thumb.jpgpost-18951-0-75136100-1435476550_thumb.jpgpost-18951-0-86530700-1435476675_thumb.jpg

 

I added another photo

post-18951-0-40116000-1435476937_thumb.jpg

Edited by afghan
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after driving around still no heat on either setting.

Ah, so now you know where the problem is- That heater valve should have gone from cold to hot when on one end or the other. You did try driving it with the valve in both positions didn't you?

 

So, either the valve is blocked/jammed internally and stops water flow all the time, or the hoses are blocked somewhere else. The copper heater pipes that stick through the firewall are delicate, so if you pull those hoses off do it carefully.

 

Before you pull the heater out and check it all, you could drain the coolant into a bucket & stick a garden hose in the hose at the water pump, and take the rad cap off so it can overflow. ....or take both heater hoses off and see if you can get water to flow through them. If you take the hoses off at the water pump & head it means you don't have to touch the copper ones on the firewall.

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Altzzaaclub

I did try in both positions.

The water pump was replaced 6 months ago.

New radiator hoses / cap & thermostat.

I understand the delicacy in those pipes.

Do you know what size those heater hoses are?

I guess I'm gonna have to cut them from the heat pipes.

It's weird

I don't know why there would be an obstruction or where it is as the car has always had coolant.

Although when she moved to Geelong, it nearly cooked on the way. I'll have to check the receipts to see what they did. Mind you that was 8 years ago.

I have not driven the car that much until recently. The last two years or so.

Must be getting old!!! It never worried me not have a heater. Only ever had one ute with air con & never used that. LOL ;)

Truth be known it is my mother in laws - one owner & has only got 130000 on the clock

Thanks again for the response

John( Afghan)

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Hi Guys

I forgot to mention

I don't know why that hose runs back to the rear of the head

All the photos I have seen looks like it goes from pump to inlet/outlet on heater down the Carby manifold side.

The other hose is down the Dizzy side via a copper tube which is same as I have

But I have a bypass hose so that won't work on the carby side

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I think your combination setup might have killed the circulation of the heater water. I've never looked at a KE30 closely, and I know you can have heater hoses taking hot water off the back of the head, but you have two hot pressure feeds.

 

The KE70 has the dizzy side pipe with the copper tube as the pressure feed to the heater. It starts under the thermostat where the water pump is pushing hot water into the top of the radiator.

 

After going through the heater the KE70 return pipe down the exhuast side feeds the water back into the suction side of the water pmp, where the lower radiator hose is feeding cold water back into the motor.

 

Your return pipe goes to the back of the head, which is also under pressure just like your feed pipe from under the thrermostat. So both pipes have equal pressure and you won't get flow.

 

Block off the outlet in the back of the head and take that hose all the way to the pump. It goes in where your bypass is on the water pump.

 

Make sense?

post-7544-0-00543500-1435539807_thumb.jpg

Edited by altezzaclub
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The dizzy side copper pipe us going into the pump not the thermostat housing, so that is a return. The feed is from the back of the head.

 

When you slide the lever from cold to hot 2 things happen. 1 the tap opens, and 2 there's a flap in behind the vents above the controls that closes. If this isn't closing it won't divert the air flow through the core and give you any heat.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did you get your heater working?

I'd given up on mine because it doesn't usually get very cold in Perth, but I was looking for it this week.

I've never got any noticeable heat out of mine. I've got a brand new heater core, I can hear the water gurgling through it when I first turn it on, but it doesn't seem to produce any heat. The controls seem to do what they're meant to do and I figured if the tubing in the cabin is leaking, at least my feet would get warm. I'm wondering if ke heaters usually do much?

Edited by peterd
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I've got a KE30 with the heater pipe feeding hot water from the back of the head, which is the hottest part of the engine. That why if you burn a valve, it will usually be in no: 4 cylinder. My heater works perfectly.

 

However, from experience, the amount of build up inside the water system, in small pipes, where there are small flows, can be enormous on a 40 year old car, with low klms, that may never have had the head off. I've taken that plate off the back of a 3K head before, and it was almost totallly blocked & corroded. I've even seen rubber heater hoses, that you'd be hard pressed putting a 4mm drill down.

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo
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