sidewz Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Posted May 23, 2016 No, we haven't used it enough to know yet, but it is something that is on my radar. I've put in a brand new thermostat, as the old one wasn't opening much. I may opt for a new bigger radiator, or put a pusher fan on this one to help keep the temp under control. We'll see once I get it out in the mud Quote
ke70dave Posted May 23, 2016 Report Posted May 23, 2016 If the OEM cooling system is in good order it should handle mud bashing perfectly fine. My old 1.3L Sierra would hoon all day at low speeds. A new radiator, radiator shroud, thermostat and a good clean out of the cooling system an it never over heated when stuck in mud. I am very skeptical of high flow thermostats. Quote
sidewz Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Posted May 23, 2016 I saw a massive difference between a new and old thermostat. Chucked them both in a saucepan and brought it up over 82, the new one had about 10mm of travel, where the old one was less than half of that. The main issue right now is the lack of a shroud. Being a Toyota 4k in a Suzuki, it doesn't line up. An electric pusher fan assist should solve that issue. Quote
Clapped out Posted May 23, 2016 Report Posted May 23, 2016 (edited) If you can, get the biggest pusher fan possible to cover as much surface space of the radiator as you can, otherwise it could be a waste of money, cheers! Edited May 23, 2016 by Clapped out Quote
ke70dave Posted May 24, 2016 Report Posted May 24, 2016 (edited) I would probably still use a fan behind the radiator rather than in front and make a shroud for it. Or grab a fan off a fwd car at the wreckers that comes with a shroud and make it fit. Edited May 24, 2016 by ke70dave Quote
sidewz Posted August 25, 2016 Author Report Posted August 25, 2016 Righto. Its been a while, but I did manage to get the old pig running nicely (briefly). A big thanks to all that gave advice.... What i eventually did was replace the points with an electronic set, and clean the carb AGAIN. What i ofund this time was bits of airfilter (hks mushroom ) in the fuel bowl and jets. It turns out the filter is disintegrating, and bits were going down the carb. Some were going down the bowl breather tubes and making it into the fuel bowl. It's fair to say it was driving me up the wall :wtf: Heres what it sounded like after all that . Anyway, this was its first proper trip in the mud. My mate had to throw it in 2wd and do some skids to keep his 5yr old happy : You asked for vids, i'm happy to oblige. It goes pretty well, and revs out nicely in the mud, . So nicely that we bought about 100kg of mud home stuck to it. But it has a flat spot mid revs that shows up on the sand, and it struggles to get up in the revs. I've broken it now though. Running on 3 at idle, and a snapped driveshaft :bash: I got the idle issue down to either a vacuum leak at the head on #2 or a blown head gasket. So i got new gaskets for both and ripped the head off. No clear sign of a blown gasket, but #2 cylinder head is much cleaner than the rest. I also snapped a head bolt that was frozen to the head. Bugger! Anyway, that can all be fixed pretty easily. Where do you get new head bolts from for a 4k???? And what am I going to do for some more power?? Quote
Banjo Posted August 25, 2016 Report Posted August 25, 2016 Absolutely love the videos ! But then I always knew I would, once you got it all sorted. That looks like so much fun. Just stick a good 5K in it ! That's the simplest way of getting some extra horses. Cheers Banjo Quote
sidewz Posted August 25, 2016 Author Report Posted August 25, 2016 We had soo much fun in it. Mainly because, we didn't give a f*@k about the truck, and were able to thrash it around tracks we wouldn't normally try. And we made some guys with really big expensive trucks cry. We went places that Safari's with $20k worth of mods couldn't go! Re: 5K. I see that statement around quite often, but I seldom see any 5k's on trademe. Where do you get them in NZ? Re: modding 4k. Cams are easy to get, and reasonable prices. $150+ A suitable weber carb seems harder to find. I don't see many 28/32's. 32/36's are common, but ya'll say they are too big. Re: tuning the current beast. I suspect my flat spot is to do with the secondaries opening too soon. Do any of the Workshop manuals explain the correct setup/gaps for the secondaries on the Aisan carbs? Quote
Banjo Posted August 30, 2016 Report Posted August 30, 2016 (edited) Hi Dave, Although today I'm running a 4KU in my KE30, I'm a real advocate of the 5K. I've had two and they are so much more responsive, with more power & torque, as long as you change or get rid of the 5K dizzy, whose advance curve is designed for commercial vehicles like the Hi Ace vans & Toyota forklifts. (good places to look for 5K in Ozz; not sure about NZ) I'll comment on the Aisan carby setup later today, as I am currently running my Corolla up the north coast of NSW from Sydney to Brisbane, after a run down the New England at the end of last week, to test a few mods I've done to the front suspension & brakes. Have put 2000+ klms on it in 4 days, a lot of which has been at 100klm/hr, where allowable. Had a little bit of carby trouble at Glen Innes in NSW, and stripped the carby & cleaned in Woolworth's car park. Thought I knew most things about this carby, but you can always learn more. I'll relate & answer your query later. Cheers Banjo Edited August 30, 2016 by Banjo Quote
sidewz Posted August 30, 2016 Author Report Posted August 30, 2016 Thanks Banjo I've aske all the local Toyota wreckers, and none have 5k's. I figure that any mods I throw at 4k can be transferred to a 5k later, such as headers, cam, carb . Is that a fair assumption? So i'll just keep an eye out for a 5k.... Quote
Banjo Posted August 31, 2016 Report Posted August 31, 2016 (edited) Hi Dave, Any bolt on upgrades you do to your 4K should be swappable to your 5K, if you manage to find one in NZ. Actually, a 4K-U with dished pistons, almost produces as much HP as a 5K, if you look up the specs. The Aisan carbies are getting pretty old now, but are very basic, and easy to work on. Repair kits are still available on ebay, and I see you can buy new Aisan replicas, cheaper than you can have an old one professionally rebuilt. Never met anyone though, who has purchased & tried one. The Aisan can easily be serviced, if you strip them, and completely clean them in a bath, to remove all the fuel lacquer build up in all the small internal passages. As a minimum, as Altezzaclub always advises, run a spray can of carby & throttle cleaner through every orifice. It helps to have the Toyota yellow bible manual with the carby circuit therein, but the following post on the link below, has some good advice & a better expanded circuit of the Aisan carby. http://members.toast...arbie_notes.htm There are very few adjustments visible on the Aisan carby, other than idle mixture, idle speed & the point where choke use, slightly increases idling speed. According to the "yellow bible" the pickup point of the secondary butterfly, can be adjusted by bending the little link, which slides in a curved slot behind the accelerator cable curved actuator arm. The slot could also be lengthened or shortened, to affect the point of secondary coming in, if necessary, if you feel that is contributing to your flat spot. The single biggest issue, is the worn shafts, and the leakage of air into the venturis, upsetting the A/F ratio. These carbies are getting very old & even the slightest leakage in this area has a great effect. This was brought home to me last week, on a trip down the New England highway from Brisbane to Sydney. The KE30 was running well, going up Cunninghams Gap in 4th gear. The engine was running sweetly, & well tuned, as the plugs colour was a near perfect light tan colour. 10 minutes north of Glen Innes, the engine started to "fluff", & I suspected a sticking needle & seat. Light was fading fast, so I decided to fix it in the morning. Morning saw a thick layer of ice over all the KE30, & my fingers were numb. I waited until 8:30am, when AutoOne opened their doors, & I grabbed a can of Carby & throttle cleaner, and took the top off the carby & cleaned needle & seat, & all jets, in the Woolworths carpark opposite. Reassembled, fired her up & off I went to Armidale, only to find she was still not going well, with top end restricted by about 10-15 klms/hr. I thought I'd drive to Armidale & then take another look. At a little town I had to stop at a pedestrian crossing & the engine cut out. Instantly I knew what the problem was. The idling shut off valve was not opening. I pulled over, and checked the connection, which I had unplugged to remove the top of the carby. The plug connection was intermittent & o/c. I plugged it in & out a few times, and away I went, with the engine as sweet as ever. It reminded me, that the main, secondary, & power jets, plus the idling circuit are not all independent, but work accummulatively. The idling circuit is still in play, even when driving & running, and does effect the A/F ratio, enough to make A/F ratio anything but perfect. Cheers Banjo Edited September 1, 2016 by Banjo Quote
altezzaclub Posted September 1, 2016 Report Posted September 1, 2016 (Next time you're in Glen Innes make yourself known at the New England Motor Lodge in the center of town. Either Steve will be manager if its a weekend, or little bro Richard will have his KE30 parked there if its a weekday. Demand a Rollaclub discount in the restaurant!) Quote
Banjo Posted September 1, 2016 Report Posted September 1, 2016 (edited) Good Heavens that Glen Innes can be a cold hole ! This was my little KE30 at the Anna Bella motel at 7:00am last Friday. Fog right down to ground level, & they told me there was "black ice" down on the highway near Guyra. And a couple of days later, much warmer outside Grafton & at Lawrence on the mighty Clarence. Cheers Banjo Edited September 1, 2016 by Banjo 1 Quote
Mechanical Sympathy Posted September 1, 2016 Report Posted September 1, 2016 Ooh Triumph wheels? ADM KE55 front, looks good. Quote
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