Jono.C Posted April 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 The master is GD galant vacless Requires sides and bottom of flange to be shaved down to fit into that section of the firewall, holes slightly drilled out in master to line up with the firewall and the bore hole to be drilled to 36mm with a step drill. Super easy to do and easily revertable back to stock also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 Are you chasing cam specs for cars less than 10years old? They tend to make long-stroke motors these days and I haven't looked into how they get power and economy out of them. I can't see the 7K being keen to rev, it will all be about getting massive mid-range torque. How are you going to refurbish the wheels?? Is that a sandblast job? I've got a Cheviot set I must get onto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted April 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 I'll be getting my cam reground through camtech cams. I'm not expecting anything amazing but i'd like to see what it's like and considering the motor was free don't mind trying I''ll be going with the 529-110a It's never going to be overly rev happy but it was super punchy in the van compared to a 4k that's for sure The wheels are actually in very good condition. It's like an oxide build up on the alloy which rubs straight off with steel wool! So i'll just be sanding through the grades to around 1800 and then polish them. If you're needing to sandblast anything Bunnings now sell an ozito at home sandblasting gun and media for around $35 that attatches to your existing air compressor and looks just like a paint gun basically.. Tried my old mans on a few small parts and worked pretty well so may be worth a try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Yeah, that sort of cam, you don't need more than 6000rpm in daily driving. You could look at the Tighe 112, which has a similar advertised duration, but opens faster as you can see from the longer 50thou duration. Runs to greater valve lift too, good as you want the valve to open quickly to as great a hole as possible, then shut early to get the max compression. Even the Tighe 104 would be good. I'll check out that Ozito, I've got a few small projects to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted April 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 Been a bit busy lately but been slowly chipping away at things Entire body loom and dash loom had to be removed due to being messed with and missing plugs/ damage.. Rewired most of one from scratch to suit the tacho dash i'll be putting in it. And everything on the dash works. Have modified the standard 1k aircleaner to fit over the 4k carb and ordered a rebuild kit for it as the acc pump seal is knackered. Should have that done this weekend Started assembling the front end stuff now. The gf's dad is a panelbeater and welded up the rust in the front guards and front pockets so I can assemble the panels ready for rego. Just a bit of surface rust around one hinge to clean up before I hang the panels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted May 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 Been hammering on this pretty flat out lately, A lot is done but still a bit to go.. Floor has all been undercoated and currently in the process of making all the hardlines for the dual circuit master. Have remade the section from diff to master now need to do the fronts Car now has an interior just needs a seatbelt putting back in. I'm not a fan of the colours but the plan is to get the car retrimmed when it gets resprayed sometime after rego Hopefully i'll be taking to get an exhaust made in a few weeks time Also had a quick go at cleaning up one of the wheels, looks like they'll come up quite nicely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killar_of_giants Posted May 21, 2018 Report Share Posted May 21, 2018 Its looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted May 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 All brake hardlines done. Just need to get softlines made Rear end has had crash damage ever since i bought it. drivers rear sat in about 2-3" from the bootlid and tailight was twisted in. Mrs's old man came round and pulled it all out and all lines up well now! only needs minor finishing off when the time for paint comes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted June 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2018 (edited) Been stripping and parting my parts car the last few weeks and storing a lot of bits to eventually restore the (ke16) wagon i picked up last year. Now have a 55000 mile old full driveline to slot in with a bottom end rebuilt 1k also as well as rebuilt master and drums also. Unfortunately a super poorly repaired, very big rear ender in the past and rust in literally every part of the shell made it useless as a car again. Only thing remaining in it when it went to scrap was the fuel tank. Currently waiting on my brake master fitting to rock up before i can progress any further on the Sprinter. Edited June 26, 2018 by Jono.C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke20rolla Posted June 26, 2018 Report Share Posted June 26, 2018 Looks like one I got a good few years ago now from here in Launnie. It was a auto and had rear end damage, sold it to another guy but unsure where it ended up. It was driven by an old guy for a long time, before I got it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted June 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2018 This one was factory manual and owned by an old lady who worked at Cadburys down here since new until a while ago then went through a couple of owners. Someone spent a bit on it at some point to attempt rego but unsure why as there is zero way it would ever pass with the level or rust thing had, even in the front rails etc near battery. Was certainly worth buying though just for the parts value alone. Just a shame as it would have been a very nice car at some point... Probably my favorite colour they came in too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boingk Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 Cool project, glad to see someone else considering the lowly 7k as an option. I like the fact that they're stroker motors as in the light KE10/20 bodies they will have great punch through twisty backroads and can use a bit more camshaft without killing the bottom end compared to the 3/4k. Keep up the good stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted June 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 Yeah to me i don't want to kill the feel of the car. I've had ke1x with rack and pinion and driven 4a powered ones also, and i think you start to lose the car. With a few small mods plus it wont be running a/c p/s etc like the do in the vans it'll be more than enough. And at the end of the day i don't want to do anything non reversible Fiiinally tracked down this little bastard. I was not familiar with the setup when i ordered the master, and it's different to anything else i've ever played with but it works. Now just need to make the new front brake lines and get new hoses made and it can go for an exhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted July 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2018 (edited) Been pretty busy lately only been chipping away at a few things. Finally got front bar mounted up properly. For some reason had to reshape and slot the front brackets to get it to sit right. As well as modifying the end ones but it's sitting right now so that's a bonus. Ordered seatbelts last night so waiting for them to arrive. Didn't come with rears so not putting any in. For some reason, The battery tray seems to be the rustiest part of any ke1x? So i found my best one, had it sandblasted and powdercoated. Have added some rubber under the battery also and made a quick little bracket for rego (may end up in boot later on) (bay is quite dirty still, needs a seriously good clean and polish to clean it up when i get the chance) Finally got onto fixing the incredible noisy and sloppy idler arm bushing too. Ordered a superpro replacement. All back together and 100x better than it was. Although, It is a one piece bushing and the directions say it'll press in, it wont. Being not rubber like the original it's too hard and just crushes itself. I had to neatly slice the bushing into 2 halves to get it all together. Something to note if you plan on replacing your own Edited July 21, 2018 by Jono.C 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boingk Posted July 21, 2018 Report Share Posted July 21, 2018 Looking good mate, its all the little things like this that make something truly special. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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