Here's a test bed I knocked up in a day recently, to mount my 5K engine on, to do some COPs mods/experiments.

I was going to sit it on the engine test bed / frame I made years ago, but it's got a 4K EFI engine conversion on it at present, & I didn't want to really undo all the plumbing etc.

I recently purchased an olde ride-on lawnmower, which I only wanted for the good Briggs & Stratton  engine therein.  I was intending to dump the mower frame, but thought, maybe I could attach the 5K to it.

It would also allow me, to wheel the whole thing around, as I only have 2 car bays in my shed, & our 2 cars should be parked there each night.

Anyway, it fitted perfectly, and is so easy to work on, as everything is accessible & it is all at working height.  Thought I'd throw it up, as someone else on here might want to build a simple test frame.

Here is a few more shots of it, if anyone's interested.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhTw-QJW1b_6iCOx7jZvpWJvbGuU

My wife came home from shopping & thought I had gone stark raving mad. She really thought I was fitting a Rolla motor to a lawnmower, as her first question was . . .   "Where are you going to sit ?"

Cheers Banjo

 

 

 

 

Edited September 2, 20179 yr by Banjo
2 photos

Bloody brilliant.

That's actually sick!

 

That's awesome.

Good idea for easier access to the manifolds and starter motor.

What's the piece cut out of the bellhousing for? Can see the ring gear.

Wonderful! 

Now add an auto gearbox torque converter hooked up with water piped through a valve and calibrated for bhp as it pumps the water round and round!

Hi Bruce,

"What's the piece cut out of the bellhousing for? Can see the ring gear."

                The gearbox in the photo is gutted & completely empty.  It's just there for mounting purposes.  The little rectangular hole in the bell housing, is from an earlier experiment where I was using a Hall Effect detector to trigger off two (2) rare earth magnets, mounted in holes in the flywheel, 180 deg apart exactly, for a waste spark arrangement, which worked well.  I even was using it for detecting the teeth on the flywheel at one stage, so the ECU could always know exactly where the crankshaft was.

 

I've experimented with all kinds of triggering over the years, as I have found that K series engines, in standard format, have a lot more to give, if they are timed & tuned properly, with a more accurate & aggressive advance curve.

The Japanese, were very conservative with their designs 40+ years ago, and didn't need or want lots of initial warranty claims, so basically over designed the engines, & detuned them.

This is borne out by the fact that "worked" K series engines can produce at least 3 x  their original HP, with the same bottom end.  This is why K series engines are so reliable.

Anyway, after all this experimenting, I'm now ready to do a full distributorless sequential firing ignition system with COPs, off an  1NZFE Toyota engine, and a full sequential EFI injection, based around the 7K inlet manifold.

Cheers Banjo

 

 

Edited September 3, 20179 yr by Banjo
add photo

Hi Keith,

             "Now add an auto gearbox torque converter hooked up with water piped through a valve and calibrated for bhp as it pumps the water round and round!"

My ultimate goal is to build something I can place on the rear end of the test bed, so that I can suitably load on the engine, to set parameters & settings under load.  At present it is all done on the road, on steep hills.  I've laid awake at night & dreamed of all sorts of things, that could economically & simply built & implemented.  I've though of a generator with a dummy resistive load.

A large water pump circulating water, that could be throttled, except the pump would probably just cavitate.  I've never considered the torque converter idea. Not sure whether it would provide enough load.   You might like to expand your thoughts on this, as I really want to ultimately build some sort of engine dyno load thingy.  Any suggestions welcome !

Cheers Banjo

On my list too Banjo, just so handy to have a reliable measure of power at home.

Option one would be the water one, there are a couple of youtube vids about one a guy uses. He has a remote control stand set up with starter, throttle, gauges and power dial.  It sucks from a 44gal drum and pumps into a pipe that forces the water past an adjustable sprung valve and back in to the tank.

Option two is based on the electric brakes on truck trailers. Tip the dual  axles upside down and back your car onto them. Then just add more and more resistance as a measure of power produced.  One vid on Youtube but it was a bit of fun more than an engineering project.

Option three is a handy bit of road with the same start speed each time and a dyno app on your smartphone.  All you need is the weight of the car. Sadly the recption is shit around Walcha so that hasn't been very accurate.

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Found these guys! You build a dyno based on their plans and they sell you the electronics.

The inertial system looks worth chasing up.

http://www.dtec.net.au/Tech Articles.htm

Edited September 4, 20179 yr by altezzaclub