Thanks for the fast response Banjo! 

Just quick update: transfer off, new clutch going. But I snapped one of the pressure plate to flywheel bolts... What do you guys think of driving home to melbw with the other five bolts holding the plate on, and then fixing it as soon as I'm there? 

Hi Jasper,

                 Just back from the shops.  Unless you have a drill & easy-out to remove the broken bolt, you probably haven't many other options, if you are heading off tomorrow.  As it is a long drive, you won't  be changing gear that much, until very close to home.

Think you'll be right.  Just don't red-line it on the way home. Ha Ha !

Cheers Banjo

Alright: I went and got a universal  alignment tool from supercheap, but it was too big for the clutch. Tried to eyeball it but I couldn't get it quite right after a couple of goes, i.e. The gearbox shafts wouldn't go in. So I think I'll have to go get a new alignment tool in the morning and try to fit the clutch tomorrow. A little frustrating but we'll get there:) 

Thanks everyone for the advice

Also I think the clutch had just exploded all at once--it was in about five parts, and there were bits of spring all through the bell housing 

Yep that will make it slip every time when half of it is at the bottom of the bellhousing. I used to use a long pencil to line the plate up. I could not be bothered fiddling around with the proper tool.

You are a lot more accurate than me! Unless I needed to wiggle the gearbox another way to get it in. I guess the morning will tell! 

 I've only done it twice in my life, but a foot of broom handle, a rasp, & 30 mins of patience, can produce a clutch plate alignment tool that works well.

 

Just check that the new friction clutch plate that has been supplied is the right one.  There are two different splines used in Rollas.  One has 19 splines & one has 21 splines.   Strangely enough, the 21 spline one, will fit a gearbox shaft with 19 splines, but the noise when you move off is frightening.

Don't forget the splines are straight cut, so sometimes you have to just rotate it ever so slightly, for it to line up, so the splines don't "butt".

Hope it works out today.

Cheers Banjo

Got the gearbox on, everything else went back together no trouble! 

The issue now is that the clutch doesn't want to disengage... The pedal goes to the floor without any friction point, though looking into the gap in the dust boot, the release arm is pushing the pressure plate. 

I adjusted the pedal height and free play as the Gregorys suggests, but it made no difference. Is it likely the clutch is installed incorrectly? Or could this be a cable issue? 

 

Thanks! 

Is there maybe another way to adjust the cable? It just feels like the pedal hits the floor before the clutch release arm moves far enough forward... 

 

It seems like cables should have an adjusting nut at the trans end,but mine doesn't!

Edited December 24, 20178 yr by Wingsforwheels

Sometimes the cable will stretch over time and you don't notice so much with a worn old clutch. You might need some extra spacing where the cable comes through the fire wall. You need the cable relatively tort when the pedal isn't depressed.

Thanks Si, 

I ended up putting a couple of hose clamps between on the cable at the firewall, since it had stretched out so much. 

All sorted then! Thanks everyone

Just back from Batemans Bay.  Good that you got it all sorted finally.   Clutch  cable replacement,  nearly always requires a clutch cable at the at the firewall.

Hope you have safe trip back to Melbourne  this evening.

Cheers Banjo 

Edited December 24, 20178 yr by Banjo

Well done on the fix, better late than never, but I have done a new clutch without machining and it was super fucked and shuddery after that.  Never again.  It scares me that big G did 2 a day at the import shop, as imports get thrashed.  What shop was that Big G?  I'm going to steer clear of their vehicles.

Hi Jasper,   Did you make Melbourne OK, last night. ?  Love to know you made it, & all your hard work was worth it !

Cheers Banjo