December 22, 200619 yr comment_156499 I only know K motors and T motors. ie: I haven't graduated into the eighties yet. Sorry :ninja: Report
December 22, 200619 yr Author comment_156550 hahaha that's ok, you're a child of the 70's :ninja: Report
December 23, 200619 yr comment_156580 Well, first of all, Get the bottom end lined up. Worry about the head next. Set Cyl 1 at TDC compression (Timing mark on crankshaft wheel is in line with the TDC mark); theoritally if you had the belt on there, rockers on no 1 should be loose, if not, you would be 360° out *scratches head* - yes, if they are not loose, youd still need to turn the crank over 1 full turn. Now, because u don't have a belt on there, and its not marked, umm; For the head side of things; ive had to work out a few things. Look at this, for example... I want someone else to have a look first as I'm some what sure its correct.. it only took about 2 hours to work out hahha, my brains still running Windows 3.1, with 2 meg of single core ram :ninja: Report
December 23, 200619 yr comment_156582 So yeah, once the head has valves in the correct position, and the bottom end is lined up, wack on ure belt with a new tensioner :ninja: Wind the motor over slowly twice, (crankshaft clockwise in direction) and if nothing hits inside, then u may be on a winnah :hmm: !! Merry Christmas, and enjoy the happyness of the 4ac ! Report
December 23, 200619 yr comment_156586 btw, where ive got "cyl head valves need to be in the following" on that paint pic, (on the right hand side of the pic) those numbers (1 2 3 4) couting down the page, are the cylinders, not the firing order. Eg. 1 represents cyl one, 2 = Two etc.. :ninja: Report
December 23, 200619 yr Author comment_156680 *blinks* You worked all that out :hmm: I understand half of that, heh :ninja: Why do I have to buy a new tensioner, the old one went back on fine...? Report
December 23, 200619 yr comment_156710 Why do I have to buy a new tensioner, the old one went back on fine...? Because if the bearing shits itself then it will f@$k your new timing belt and you have to do it all again.. Report
December 24, 200619 yr Author comment_156722 But i'm not changing the timing belt either, all i've done is change the main oil seal, i'm just putting it back together. The belt looks fine and so does the tensioner. Do I HAVE to change it just because I took it of??? :ninja: Report
December 24, 200619 yr comment_156724 But i'm not changing the timing belt either, all i've done is change the main oil seal, i'm just putting it back together. The belt looks fine and so does the tensioner. Do I HAVE to change it just because I took it of??? :ninja: Id change it just because I can. Next time I take my gearbox off I'm changing the clutch weather it needs it or not (mainly because the gearbox is a prick to take off and a prick to get back on). Report
December 24, 200619 yr comment_156752 At the end of the day, when was the timing belt replaced, and when is it due to get done next? You do timing belt and the idler pulley at the same time; like coolant and break fluid on toyotas. Every 24 months, or 20,000 kms. Regardless. (well, for the older style coolant...) yada yada. You end up trying it all as yet? Report
December 24, 200619 yr Author comment_156813 no idea when it was replaced or when it needs to be, it's 2nd hand :ninja: nope, haven't had a chance to work on it yet... plus I don't have the money to replace the belt and tensioner at the moment so I just have to wing it, as I need the car going :hmm: Report
December 28, 200619 yr Author comment_157174 Well, after 5 days of rain, i've been able to get back out and work on the car. All I have to say is "I'm A f@$king Champion" :y: Me. In the end, I didn't need all the awesome stuff that Matt did up, I simply arsed it and fixed the timing up by leaving the distributor where it was, hand cranking to line up the dots, then moving the timing belt by notches until it started with the flick of the key. I've also got the exhaust hooked up. It needs a new flange gasket, so it's a bit noisy, but it will get me to Rob Bliss to get a new one, plus the rest of the mounts put on properly. So, the bitch is going again, and I can't think of anything else engine wise I need to fix for a while. Report
January 6, 200719 yr Author comment_158222 It seems i'm whoring my own thread.. woo hoo. I got my exhaust installed properly today, $200 with the 3" tip. Rob Bliss Exhausts FTW :) It turns out that the panelvan and wagon layouts for the exhaust is different, so they had to mod the pipe in a couple of places. So what better way to test out all the stuff I've fixed but to go on a glorious/nebo mountain run, and it went beautifully. I think I still need to tweak with the tuning a bit, but now I have no oil leak and the temp is staying pretty stable. On that note, does anyone have a shroud to fit an AE71 radiator, as I think that might help some more. Also, I need some info on where I can get my rails modified so I can put my Cobra seat in. Things to do now are: Find Autotechnica boss kit for my steering wheel Install stereo Install tacho dash Install centre console pieces etc Fix bumpers Carpet the back Not necessarily in that order. Cheers, Matt :y: Edited January 7, 200719 yr by Nitephyre Report
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