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Some time back, in the following thread https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73676-oil-pump-failure/page/9/#comment-714036 I described how I fitted a Toyota Echo radiator core/shroud/fan to my KE30. It has been very very successful, & with the removal altogether of the fan belt driven fan; certainly released energy to the wheels, rather than to be constantly turning the fan blades; whether it was needed or not. It indeed confirmed that; on an indicator I placed on the dash, which illuminated, when the electric fan was operating; that the "ram effect", of air through the radiator, was enough to adequately cool the engine, except, when you pulled up in traffic, at lights, on a hot day. In fact there have been days, when I've been out on the road, & the electric fan has never activated, until a few minutes after I arrive home, & the "heat soak" out of the engine, pushes up the coolant temp. The electric fan will typically run on for 2-3 minutes, & then turn off. (typical of what you hear walking around shopping center car parks) By the way, I live in Qld. not Tassie ! There was however, one draw back, using the Toyota Echo radiator/shroud/electric fan setup, I fitted. The outlet on the bottom of the Echo radiator, was on the wrong side, & the S.S. tube pipe I fitted, runs across the face of the crankshaft pulley, where I need to fit my new aluminium trigger wheel, to test my new Speeduino ignition system, on the road. On ebay, I recently came across KE30 Aluminium core/shroud & fan assemblies, c/w relay & thermostat switch, for around $ 240-$260 ea., which seemed a bit cheap to me. Has anyone purchased & used one these radiator core/shroud/fan setups; & were they any good ? Previously, You would barely be able to purchase an "aluminium core only", for that sort of money. I am just concerned about the quality of the product. If anyone gives them the "thumbs up", it will be a simple fix, to allow me to fit the Speeduino finally to the car, & do some road testing, rather than the test bed engine stand, without a dummy load device, which Altezzaclub & I have as yet; not been able to come up with a cheap water pump engine load etc idea ! Cheers Banjo

But as I draw closer to having the repairs to this tailgate done I am starting to think about some of the requirements/upgrades that I would like to have for this tailgate. - but more strength : I will put some extra bracing in the door frame as previously I noticed how bouncy the panel was. I have a plan for this one so stay tuned 😉 - Central locking : this will take some thinking. I'm open to suggestions - rear window wiper + nozzle : I will try get a kit and see what it looks like. I know the VW/Audi hatches have the nozzle in the spindle for the wiper so this could a neat solution - reversing camera : this should be easy enough, but I'm just thinking of a way to mount it cleanly beneath the Toyota badge. Most of these will require some modification to the tailgate, but this is the perfect time to plan for them

weld closer to the door way to allow the fumes to escape easier & better air ventilation is always better for ur lungs... keep up the good work... love KE26 wagons! i use to have one 30yrs ago LOL... maybe i should show u my KE25 sprinter almost finished after 8yrs...

Can’t believe I didn’t think of that! Was lying bed last night thinking about getting a bigger fan. Oh well, better welds or better lungs? Perhaps I’ll just be sensible and allow the fumes to clear before looking at the weld!

So here is an example, I'm using 0.8mm cold rolled steel. Starting on the right I went too fast and you see the weld is proud and almost shiny. Then I slowed down and let the puddle form and you can see the change in the weld, goes flatter and the filter rod flows into the parent metal. There was no change to the settings, no change in gas, I just slowed down a little. Flipping it over, again right to left with the metal butted hard up against each other I didn't get penetration because I was too fast. but then looking right to left you can see I get good penetration once I slowed down. Hope that made sense and it helps

You can build the whole car with a handful of timber shapes and a light hammer, that's how coachbuilders worked. We do similar work building race cars, customising panels in the simplest method. It will be a work of art when the car is finished!

Picked this up today, 64 toyota up10 700 toyoglide, original Need a hubcap if anyone can help

My special rare earth magnets should arrive today. In the meantime, I've finished grinding down the outer face of the camshaft sprocket cover, & fitted the 120mm dia. aluminium disk, to provide a nice flat, firm, surface; to mount the Hall Effect sensor mounting bracket. It worked out well. Next process, will be to mount it to the front of the engine, then fit crankshaft pulley & trigger wheel, & design & build a little mount for the Hall Effect sensor. I've purchased a new crankshaft oil seal for the cover, & was pleased to find, they are still readily available. It turns out, the front crankshaft oil seal, on the 5K engine, was used on a variety of Toyota smaller engines; hence they are still in good supply. 3K, 4K, 5K, 7K, 2R, 3R, 5R, 2T, 3T, 4TG & 12R Toyota engines, all use this same seal. I'll, not fit the seal, until the Hall Effect sensor bracket is designed, built, & fitted, as I'm sure the cover will be on & off numerous times, during that process. I've permanently removed the four (4) sump connecting threaded studs at bottom of this cover, & replaced them with bolts; so that the aluminium cover can be removed & replaced without having to lower the sump each time. It's a mod I've done to any K Series engine, I've worked on. When finished, a few coats of a nice gloss enamel, will have it looking like the picture I discovered on the web, that started this little side project; & which I "coverted" so much (greatly desired or envied); I simply built my own. Cheers Banjo

I haven't completed the mods to the camshaft sprocket cover as yet, but I have sited the aluminium disk, I purchased (6mm x 120mm), where it will be located; & it looks almost, as if it was designed for this application. However, that's a few more precious hours, to finish that off, & then remove, the radiator, to get at the front of the "test engine", to remove & replace the camshaft sprocket cover, without removing the sump. What I really need to do now, is test the concept, of a 200mm aluminium disk, with magnets facing out along the edge, rather than out the side. So back to the A/C compressor bracket mounting points on the block, & a piece of bar, & it lines up perfectly; as the centre of the crankshaft, is in line with the bottom edge of the block, which is approximately where the compressor bracket mounting holes are. Ultimately, that Hall effect sensor, will be mounted on the cover pointing down to the edge of the disk, approximately 90 deg. from where it is in the picture below. So before I fitted any magnets, to the "rim", of the aluminium disk; I want to ensure the disk was perfectly centred, & there was no run out. The blank disks come as just that; cut with a laser, & with no centre hole. No real issue finding the centre of the blank disc. Just 2 or 3 lines across the disk, towards the edge. Measure the length of each, & find the mid point of each line. With a right angle set-square, draw a line at right angles , at the mid-point. These 2 or 3 lines should intersect at the centre point, of the circular disk. Then carefully drill at hole at the midpoint, & carefully enlarge, until you can get a reamer in there & gently remove only enough metal, until the crankshaft centre bolt, is a nice tightish fit, so there is no lateral movement in the plate, due to the hole being bigger, than the unthreaded section of the crankshaft pulley, retaining bolt. I went through this exercise, & finished up, with a run-out of the edge of the aluminium disk, of less than 0.5mm. I measured this run out, with a little metal "L" bracket, clamped so that you could turn the crankshaft, & measure the gap. Normally, you would true the disk up in a lathe. However, I don't have a lathe, but the engine to which the disk is fitted, runs. At idle; just hold a very fine file on the little shown silver bracket depicted; & because the aluminium is soft, & easy to work with; in just a few minutes, you have a perfectly concentric outer edge on the disk. It turns out the "diametric" round rare earth magnets, are made in limited sizes, & are very expensive; & I can't find the exact size I need, available in Australia. So initially, I'm going to press small "rod" magnets into 36 holes drilled evenly around the edge of the disk. The 200mm blank aluminium disk I purchased was not available in 10mm thickness; so I had to settle for an 6mm thick one. that should allow me, to drill & press in a 4mm dia. rare earth magnet. I'll practice, of a piece of scrap 6mm thick aluminium, before I go drilling the disk, around the periferal edge. Here is a pic, taken of the 200mm aluminium trigger disc, from the opposite side of the engine. Now there is no water pump, & no water pump pulley, or fan blades, it certainly will "unclutter the front of the engine, directly behind the radiator. I've since found an a 200mm blank aluminium disc on Amazon, that is 8mm thick, so have ordered one; but it's coming from overseas, so will probably take a couple of weeks. So next post, I'll either be elated, that it is working, as intended; or back to the drawing board. If it works, then the next job, will be building a Hall Sensor mount on the 120mm flat disk, on the camshaft sprocket cover, depicted in the first pic, in this post. Cheers Banjo

Where you at? I've got both genuine brackets I could sell.

That photo I came across; of a beautiful K Series motor preparation, (see earlier post in this thread) has had my mind racing this week. Although the "specialised camshaft sprocket aluminium cover", looks like it is professionally made; I couldn't help but think, that I want one ! So if you can't buy one; could I just make one. I really need all the space in front of the engine, so a bracket that holds the Hall Effect sensor; vertically facing down to the edge of the trigger wheel; would provide the best solution. My "lash up", to prove my concept of a "no missing teeth trigger wheel", using rare earth magnets, with a separate single inboard magnet to create the crankshaft positional signal. However, since then, I've purchased a Haltech double Hall Effect sensor, where the sensor barrel, contains two Hall Effect devices. One detects North pole magnets, & the other detects South pole magnets. Being the same housing means there only needs to be one row of magnets around the aluminium disk edge. I have 35 magnets around the edge, with south pole facing the sensor, & one magnet, with the north pole facing out. This then produces the same result as a 36:1 toothed wheel, from the "South Pole" Hall Effect device. However, the single pulse per revolution, positional sensor signal, can be "OR'd" with the 35 pulses, to produce a very accurate signal, with no missing tooth gaps, for determining high accuracy & resolution, for extremely accurate RPM measurement. Accurate RPM info is most important, as it determines where on the MAP, the ECU takes its preset response curve. The picture directly above, shows two Hall Effect devices, & the single positional indicator magnet is located inboard, in line where the missing tooth is located. The single Hall Effect sensor I'm now using simplifies this above depicted arrangement. I now have a single Hall Effect sensor with two Hall effect sensors therein. This allows a single row of sensors around the outside of the aluminium trigger disk. 35 off magnets, with "south" pole facing out, & one off magnet with it's north pole facing out. It all works, & I have had the engine actually running like this, in full sequential firing, via the Toyota Echo COPs, I've mounted on the engine; albeit, with only fixed advance of 10-12 degrees. However, the Haltech Dual Hall effect sensor, is longer than the two (2) off single output Hall effect devices depicted above. It looks like this . . . . . That means, the Haltech sensor sticks out horizontally, even further. So my intent is to mount it vertically, off the camshaft sprocket aluminium cover. I've dug out an olde 5K cover, & ground the slight dome off the front of it's external face, so I can mount the 6mm x 120mm thick aluminium disk, which should arrive in a couple of days. It won't look as good as that professional one, depicted on the web photo, earlier in this thread; but it will provide me with a solid & firm base to mount the sensor, as vibration from brackets sticking out in open air, provide a source, to create missed sensor signals, where air gaps are small, & missing positional signals, are not welcome. However, solving one problem, introduces another consideration ! The mounting of the sensor vertically, requires that the rare earth magnet end faces, also meet the Hall Effect sensor face vertically. This is because the magnetic field is stronger; close to the "poles", where it is concentrated. This will require embedding the magnets in "the edge" of the aluminium disk. The face of the Hall Effect sensor is 10mm in diameter. Obviously, that would require a very thick aluminium disk. I've settled for some 4mm rare earth magnets, I have here, & have ordered a 200mm dia. x 8mm thick aluminium disk, to embed them in. The magnets will be 20mm long. The problem is that mounting the magnets in that fashion, exposes them to the centrifugal force of the spinning disk, trying to "shed them" . This does not happen presently, as the magnets are contained securely from centrifugal forces, as they are pressed in from the side of the disk. My technique previously, was to drill the holes in the disk, slightly undersize; & press the magnets in, using a vice. I'll use that technique again, & fill the hole with Araldite, before fitting them. Then laying the disk on it's side, on a hard flat surface, A simple centre punch to the side of the disk, in the middle of where each magnet is embedded; should result in no movement in magnets at all. However, I have seen pictures of professional Aluminium trigger wheels with magnets, so went looking at what others have done. Holley / MSD produce something like this . . . In this case, the magnet face is pointing to the side of the disk, rather than facing the sensor. The answer to this query, is actually in the photo. The sensor only has two (2) wires coming out of it. It is in fact; not a Hall Effect sensor, but a common VR, or variable Reluctance sensor, which requires no power. It is interesting, because the picture of the K Series engine above is also using a single VR sensor, & a ferrous "missing tooth" trigger wheel. I do not favour the VR sensors; although I know manufacturers in the USA & elsewhere, have used them for decades. My objections are two fold. One, the waveform from the VR sensor is a badly formed sinusoidal waveform, & requires extra electronics to "square" it up, so the time information is accurate. Two, "the amplitude" of the waveform, is quite low, at low revolutions; (whilst cranking), & therefore, the very time at which you are trying to start the engine, on a cold Winters morning; the sensor is providing it's lowest amplitude. So when I receive a 200mm dia. x 8mm thick aluminium disc, this coming week, I can then work out, how I'm going to set it up, to drill 36 off 4mm holes, 20mm deep, around the narrow, (8mm) wide edge. P.S. One of the nice & convenient things about my little project; is that I can pop the original dissy in; remove the COPs, & run the engine, whilst lining everything up on the trigger wheel, & checking the Hall Effect sensor outputs on the CRO. Cheers Banjo

am I missing something or is that a pump for the dry sump set up.0

I have just realised I have another small issue, with fitting the EFI trigger wheel & Hall sensor/s, to my K series engine, as well as the return pipe from the bottom of the Echo radiator, passing in front of the crankshaft pulley. At present, the Hall Effect dual sensor, is mounted on a metal bracket I fabricated, which mounts on the LHS of the engine block, where the Rollas with A.C. mounted the compressor. As I intend to fit a compressor & AC system, eventually, then I will need these mounting points. Quite by accident, I came across this photo, of a beautifully prepared K Series Toyota engine. My eye caught sight of a very neat bracket attached to the camshaft sprocket casing. How Neat ! Would certainly overcome my problem. It looks so well made, that maybe someone, somewhere, in the world produced one on these at some time. I looks like it is maybe just an aluminium disk screwed to the front of the existing case. I might just have to investigate that a bit . . . . . Has anyone ever come across one of these specials before ? P.S. I note the beautiful engine above, has an A.C. fitted; although it might actually be an external oil pump, tooth belt driven ? Anyway, I found a 5K Camshaft sprocket cover in my shed; cleaned it up & measured it up, this afternoon. I know the casing, is not dead flat across the front. About 2-3mm proud in the centre. I found a stock aluminium disk 120mm in diameter, & 4mm thick on ebay, in NSW, so will be here in a couple of days. It shouldn't be too hard, to grind the curve off the front of the casing, & attach the disk, to give it lots of meat, & strength, as I need a very stable & rigid platform, to attach the Hall Effect sensor to. Cheers Banjo

Thanks banjo, I know it's funny but when I started the restoration 18 months ago I had never welded or done any form of metal shaping. I know I took Tafe courses and spent time at a professional shop to learn the skills, but for a complete novice this is a daunting task. All that said I do really enjoy it, you're right in that the process is gratifying to see how this is turning out. But it's funny to think I'm now doing the work at home, and hopefully someone will read this blog, my journey of learning and it inspires them to restore their car. Because if I can do it, well anyone can

And just like that, it's finished, slight change of plans on a few things, been on the road now for almost a year, and took 6 months of "trial and error" to get it to finally run as it should!

Who actually has one of these heads? Take it to China Profit?

There is NO F#$%^&G WAY, you would ever get 100 people to put their money up for this. I'd love to have one, but seriously, you're dreaming.

watch everyone disapear when the real prices are revealed.

You can't just replicate the top end of this thing... timing cover, sump, upright kit, manifolds, water and oil pump and pickup. I'd guess its bottom end is built like that of an... f1 car. Then there's ignition & fuel system, crank gear, cam gear, cams, followers, valves, stems & seals, rocker cover. Shit the list goes on. You'd have to be real keen because i'd estimate five figures each. I don't mean to dash hopes but the block alone probably needs thousands spent on it. It wouldn't be running a stock crank or bearings for sure. You could expect to be building an engine from scratch.... Good Luck any how.

Hi I am new to this site I have been looking for a 3kr engine for a little while and I found only one place to get one, the person who has it is thinking of sending the 3kr cylinder head to be reproduced so I was wondering if there would be 100 people who would be interested in a reproduction of a 3kr head and internals I need to find out about pricing but the person said just for the casting of the head wouldn't cost too much but reproduction of cams pulleys and so on will be needed. I will try and research where to get 3kr internal parts built let me know if anyone is interested, I will get back to the person and ask if the quote's been recieved for casting them I know my kp61 rwd starlet is lacking power so a 3kr would be dope cheers Liam