LowVp

try and put more load on the alternator

regulator, its over charging but also staying connected and discharging your battery when the key if off, with the engine running turn on all of your accessories like lights, stereo, hazards and the light will go out and should indicate that its the regulator that cactus and overcharging

magna blue injectors off the top of my head are only 24lb, about half the flow of what you need. here is a link to a mob that rejets and matches injectors. i picked up a set of 42lb injectors for 300 bucks landed here from the states. just check the design style and flow rate http://www.deatschwerks.com/catalog/produc...products_id=146

syncro's

damn i have already booked 3 nights at yamba

exactly, most heavy trucks do not have a syncro's and require either double clutch or rev matching to change gears and another thing they have is a clutch brake which is located behind the clutch and is only used when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor when engaging a gear from a stationary position

Owner: Dru Username: LowVp Location: Ipswich Vehicle Name: daily Vehicle Model: AE82 Body Shape (# Doors): 5 door hatch Date Made: 11/86 VIN: AE829726357 Colour: White Engine: 4AC

i mean the hole hub from the bottom of the strut to the lower control arm

when i got under my ae82 i noticed how much it looked like a mcv20 camry underneath and even the struts and the other day i had to replace the front rubber brake lines and i got a thinking what would be involved in putting mcv20 camry brakes all round. has anyone done a brake upgrade from another model other then a rolla

No luck with the switch, tried another switch and solenoids to no avail

another trip to the wreckers

lol not taking a stock 82 down there

i got 2 others from the wreckers this arvo. turn the key to on and it has power to it. i will probably figure this out when i've had some more sleep

Next problem is the proportioning valve for the washers. Hit the button for the front and it's fine but try the rear switch and it only sends water to the front. Valve seems to have direct power to the ignition circuit. Thoughts?

Is there much involved in replacing cv boots on an ae82, it's the only thing that got picked for a road worthy and also is the speedo electronic or cable as the dash is making a rattling noise and the speed jumping 20k but give it a little tap and it stops briefly and reads correct

4 foot length of 2.5" galvanized pipe, got a tight nut and need a longer breaker bar, simply slide pipe over short breaker bar and presto. I also use it to leaver the blocks around onto engine mounts. best one for filling manual gearbox's is to use a length of heater hose to go from the gearbox to the side of the car, make a hole in the lead of the oil container to pass the heater hose threw and put enough hose as to reach the oil. put another small hole in the lid to apply compressed air. don't apply to much air as you will wear the oil, just enough to make the container flex a bit and let it contract pushing the oil down the heater hose and into the gearbox. good thing about this is you can monitor how much oil your have pushed in.

ah well i'm glad my problem helped solve yours

my v6 was doing this and it was a throw out bearing

Member Name - LowVp Area - Ipswich Daily Drive - AE82, Holden VP ute

yeah it was, forgot to copy the rolla address

picked this AE82 Rolla up for 1200 bucks with 336k's, unfortunately its got the 4ac 5speed in it. when i first drove it, it had no power and was clearly something ignition wise was not right. On saturday i spent the day just going over it to see if it needed anything for a roadworthy and all i could find was a number plate and tail light bulbs, gapped the plugs and cleaned the dizzy and rotor button and took it for a squirt but it was still down on power. Came back and checked the dizzy once more and noticed that it was spark timing was fully retarded and so with a few little movements and test drives its now sweet as and goes like a stabbed rat and for 336k's i think its still got most of its advertised hp. although a daily it will be a car for my step daughter to learn to drive in although she can drive my turboed v6 ute this will just be a bit lighter as the clutch in the ute you have to have a left leg like arnie to push it in but as soon as she gets her own car i can see a 4agze or even a 4agte going in and some serious suspension work and speaking of underneath it i was suprised how much it looked like the wife's camry underneath: struts, exhaust location, fuel tank location etc. i like toyota's thinking sometimes.

this is the wife camry, ex qld health car was stock when she bought it and i have lowered on superlows and chucked the wheels and stereo in it. to be honest it has started a bit of a manufacturer swap for me being a holden fella. wheels on 1 week before i lowered it. first drive after being lowered

V6 will be coming out and a LS1 and T56 going in its place, so i'm not really going to change much with it

yeah on occasion so regular trips to the wreckers to buy coils, haven't taken this into town in a while. last victims were a vy clubby and a ve clubby and haven't been back in there since

Model: 1993 VP ute Colour: Canterbury Blue Bodykit: VP GTS front bar, VT clubby skirts Engine Type: 3.8L V6 Engine Mods: T3/T4 Turbo, 42lb injectors, 600x300FMIC, Haltech Ecu, 600hp intank fuel pump Power: 217rwkw Exhaust: 3" turbo back Gearbox: T5 5speed manual, HD oragnic clutch Diff: 3.45:1 LSD Brakes: front 322mm Slotted rotors with twin piston calipers, rear stock slotted Suspension: superlows allround, 31mm front sway bar, 22mm rear adjustable sway bar, camber/caster kit Wheels/Tyres: 17x7.5 PCW Sensei Interior: Stock, power windows, boost, water, oil gauges Other Mods: Stereo: Kenwood MP333 HU, Blaupunk amp, VDO 6" splits, 800w 10" pioneer sub Build Period: ongoing Cost: cheaper then a bought one Contacts: Future Mods: repositioned and better turbo more boost, stateman interior, paint Youtube Video ->