Super Jamie

i beg to differ, my cammed 4k made bucketloads of torque down low, i couldn't have wanted more, i could however have used more top end on a K motor, i think pipe diameter is more important than design, bigger primaries would have been awesome. ideally, you should get extractors custom made for the powerband of the engine

hahaha, i want a handwritten "type-ahh" badge for my car too! :)

no, but he's built lots of pushrod engines with wedge shaped combustion chambers, and lots of non crossflow engines, and he's been building motors longer than i've been alive, so yeah :)

that has got to be the cheapest clutch replacement ever! i once cut more grooves into my old stock asbestos-type clutch because i just needed it to last a few months till i got my 4K going :) $0

GODDAMN YEAH :n: you could have done the same thing with a $30 polishing kit but it would have taken you ages. they look AWESOME dude :)

mum told me an interesting story tonight when i was born, she was driving a little beige 1969 KE10 corolla. i still remember this car parked in our driveway when i was 4 or 5, my nan got it after mum got something newer. for some reason, i remember with perfect clarity, what it looked like the day we sold it anyway, back in the day, i was still 1 year old, sitting there in my booster seat as mum's driving, when i've pointed to something in front of me, and said my first word... "TOYOTA" how cool is THAT! :)

david vizard also reckons 4-2-1s are shit, i'm sticking with him :)

generally tri-y extractors are used on v8s, it's said that you get more torque out of them but they restrict top end. they're really just a compromise and a waste of time get 4-1s

http://images.google.com.au/images?q=clutc...lignment%20tool

why?

will your perspex floorpan drop out and cause sparks from the road when the computer reads "danger to manifold"? glass would be a better idea, i was going to suggest that. streeter said he'd do me 1x1.2m glass sheets for the cost of the materials

buyer always pays freight :) i've just commited funds to a ute for now, but if this is still for sale in a few months, we'll talk cheddar. can you post some more pics of it? this is a rare car, i'm sure we'd all love to see more :D

dave's best is about 80k, but his girlfriend got over 2 million

i mean like those finger skateboards, dudes would like, grind the whole school with them and they wouldn't break. f@$k that would get you some points in tony hawk :D

well, do you want to scrape your exhaust over speed bumps or not? there's your answer

and i can guarantee you all that ke30 extractors don't fit a ke70

alot of rotor boys run the exhaust under the diff, partially because you need a 3" pipe to get decent power out of a bridgey/turbo and there's just not enough room in the diff tunnel to go over if you don't have access to a bender, get an exhaust shop to make you up a few sections of 90 degree mandrel bent pipe and cut and weld joins at home to suit you have to put bends in an exhaust, it's just that simple. this is verging on a stupid question and before you ask, no we don't know what lengths you need, measure and plan it as you go

we used acrylic alot in high school. we had ovens and a high speed bandsaw and shit. all i remember it really being good for was making little skateboards because people were too cheap to buy tech decks

i think everyone should drive with a locker and decide for themselves fook hated a locker, because it makes the car heavy to steer, and pushes through corners until you get broad. fook says he'd rather drive with an open center than a locker i love a locker, because it's so predictable and it's insane how much power you actually waste through an open center when you want to get broad. i don't drive with one because i don't fancy the points and fine of a defect notice, and i don't want to be constantly buying axles of course lsd is better, but it's not cheap

repco, autobarn, etc. look in the yellow pages for a business with "clutch" in their name, an example down here would be "ballina brake, exhaust and clutch". any mechanic should be able to get you one too you can do it on stands or ramps, you'll also need a jack to raise and lower the gearbox on. it really helps to have a mate there with you tailshaft out, box off engine, lock the flywheel somehow (screwdriver in the teeth is good), get the pressure plate bolts off, swap the clutch, put it all back together. buy a clutch aligning tool as well, i use a spare gearbox input shaft to align clutches

LOL!!! a good set of points should be able to rev to 10000rpm no problems, i had my 4k to 8500 and it never bounced once

i'm going to cut up my spare ke20 gb crossmember and do welding mods for the racecar, with side exit exhaust, i need all the muffling space i can get :D

stock clutch is $120-$150, heavy duty $240 no they're not hard to change, just don't get it round the wrong way (pay attention to the driven plate as you take it out) get a new clutch cable while you're there

alloy would also make nice doorcards, and rear firewall. mmm alloy

typo :D