demuire

Tom: I believe the key to it all (as is the key to virtually everything else I suppose) is practice, practice, practice, experiment and then practice summore. Judging from the photos you've posted up on this thread, I've noticed that some of them tend to have a very soft focus - was this intended? There're quite a few books/websites that talk about what makes a "good photo", including all aspects such as lighting, lines, composition (rule of 1/3rds etc), depth of field, among others - maybe have a look at a couple. Once you know what you want your photo to look like, then you have to learn how to get the camera to replicate that - again books etc will help, as will experimentation with different settings. Learn to use the apature, shutter speed etc to your advantage, and for bright daylight shots try to use a polorising filter and see how that changes the picture. But at the end of the day, photography is an art, and as with any art there aren't any real strict "rules" - only guidelines. One other thing you could do is look at photos that you like, and try to figure out what it is about the photo that you like. Then next time you see a subject in a similar setting, you know what to do to take a photo that you know you will like :)

Yes AE82 is 4x100, same as the other FWD Corollas. You'll need to use calipers etc off the back of another car (not front) so that you can still use the handbrake setup. You'll most definately need to do some custom work with the handbrake cables, but I can't imagine that being too difficult.

Oh wow, happy birthday... 23 is young? Oh yeah, that's right - it's 24 that's the old one... I'm an old, old man :D

Hmm, we could take photos of Hal in there, then we could take photos of chicks in there, and then we could take photos of chicks and Hal in there, and then we could bring the fun over to the boulder wall and set up a harem :D

To get discs on the back of your car there are basically 2 steps: - get disc to fit on the axle. You'll want a disc that originally slides over the original studs of your axle, the same way a drum slides over the studs. Examples of this are the Bluebird TRX setup (although this does have an internal drum handbrake too), and I think the R31 Skylines are the same. Not sure about other RWD disc brake cars, but quite possibly the same. - get calipers to fit on the diff housing, and clamp over the disc. For this you'll need to fabricate some caliper mounts. You can get get a plate machined up that will bolt to your diff housing where the drum brakes usually do. All in all, it isn't too complex, but not the easiest thing to do either. One problem you will probably find with upgrading your rear brakes is brake bias. A bias valve will fix this.

[macho voice impersonation]you can perve on me anytime, babe[/macho voice impersonation] :unsure: Wow. That's a fair bit :D AND I get to perve on girls too? Hey Wyldephyre, when are we going to get that studio downstairs set up? :poke: Oh well I suppose if the opportunity came up to give it a go I'd be happy to, although to start of with I think I'd probably do it for free or not much just to get some experience etc...

Great money? Hmm :D

Yes I took all the photos I posted. And heh, no I just do it as a hobby... Wyldephyre is doing it on a much more serious level though, and I recon he's pretty darn good. Irokin: Experimentation is always good, that's probably the best way to learn, and is what digital cameras are super for :D Did you maybe try to either bump the ISO up or play with the settings a bit more to try to get them a bit better exposed?

Irokin: Do you think maybe your last couple of photos are a bit underexposed? Maybe except for the one of... brocollii??? How on earth do you spell that anyway? the green one :D

Good luck with it all :D Just remember that the law is higher than what the tester tells you - sometimes they get ask you to do things that you shouldn't (and they really shouldn't do that), and then mark you down on that. Drive as you've been taught to drive and drive with confidence, and you'll be fine.

I have no idea... No doubt there'd be others who are also in the same boat who made mistakes but either didn't think so or didn't want to admit to them, but short of video and/or eye-witnesses what can we do hey?

Check the selectors, sometimes they get jammed and so it jams up. Happened to 2 of my T50's.

dorifto fook And you said I was boring, pah! :D hehe...

Heh, well we watched the video tonight (ironically belonging to Craig himself), and yes we all saw that he did a WD...

No, I don't want an FA engine, and yes I know they don't last long.

Mel: I agree. People were ringing up and complaining that they didn't remeber hitting any flags etc, and I recon there'd have to be at least one person who either didn't realise they hit a flag, or just wanted more championship points... But oh well...

I really don't know - I just assumed you could. I sort of thought if you were going to get a FA engine then you'd already know that it's got the goods, so you wouldn't need to think about what work goes into building it? Dunno... I like my stocko engine :D

18RG VW Beatle... Or at least I think it was an 18RG...

I was driving, I didn't take pics of myself :D Haikal didn't get any of me sideways either, apparently I was "boring" :unsure:

You mean you can't buy one either? I always thought it was possible to get them pre-built too (who built them to start? Was it TRD?)

Short shift kits don't always have a shorter "pole". They make the throw shorter by changing the axis point

Here's a photo from the day: And more

But again, even a rotary engine doesn't do a perfect circle, well not exactly anyway, so more energy than necessary will still be lost. The reason behind why the design principles are different for an electric motor vs a combustion engine is cause of the way the movement is obtained. In an electric motor (using electro-magnets), the movement comes from the pulling power (attraction) and pushing power (repulsion) between the magnets and brushes. Compare this to a combustion engine where the movement comes from the expansion of the gases in the combustion chamber. That's why piston engines are designed the way they are (expansion pushes the piston down) and again the same with rotary engines (expansion pushes the rotor around). If you designed a combustion engine completely round (like an electric motor), it wouldn't work at all because the expansion of gases wouldn't push anything anywhere, unless you made it also vent the gases sideways like little jets or something...

Final results are out: 1st: Craig Hornibrook (1 in class) 2nd: :D (1) 3rd: Ken Graham (1) 14th: Fook (4) 17th: Mumblezz (6) 18th: Melinda (2)

Heh, all good Teddy. If anything at all, you should be commended for having such an inquisitive and to a certain extent creative mind, something not many other people have. Yes, your idea is pretty clever, but I don't think it would be anywhere near as efficient as a "traditional" electric motor, simply because a lot of energy is lost changing the direction of the piston as it goes up and down, vs a traditional motor where very little of that energy is lost because most of it is converted into movement in a constant direction. In illustration, if you have a remote control car or something similar, try running it in a forward direction only, and then try again going forward and backward, and you'll find that the batteries will last a lot longer just going in one direction (either forward or backward) than constantly changing it. But yes, keep it up, and I think you'll be onto bigger and better inventions in time to come! Who knows, the next invention to revolutionise motorcar engines? The rotary was the last big one (variable cam, etc etc weren't really all that breakthrough...), and that was AGES ago...