demuire

Umm... Isn't the conversion from ft-lb to Nm something like, 1ft-lb = 1.375Nm? If so, 440ft-lb = 605Nm atw, which assuming you're running a 5.1 diff, would be about... 118Nm at the engine? Does that sound vaguely right?

Nick: If that was strictly adhered to then Walkinshaws were illegal from factory :thumbsup:

No, torque figures are right. That's at the wheels. Roughly divide by your diff ratio. And then that figure, is after drivetrain losses... My stock 4AGE pulled like 383Nm with a 4.1 diff. And 69hp. At the same dyno that Rob pulled 60hp, I think.

Oh that... Hmm, maybe a little more than I was hoping to spend (considering 20v quads go for usually between $150-$300)... But sounds interesting! What are they off?

TRD_KE70: Did you mean this?

To tell you the truth Doug, I have no idea :thumbsup: I'm just going by what I've read on other forums (so it must be true, hahahahaha...), and by talking to my fabricator... I don't really know how the ECU's work, or what inputs they usually need.

Hahaha, next time post here lah, when you want to go :thumbsup: Then can organise TT :y:

You have some for sale?

Can you even buy them new anymore???

Yes, thingy-magic, or also known as Whatchamacallit :thumbsup:

Interesting. I might think about this.

Hey wow, that's really cool :thumbsup:

Oh, you mean to just not have the bumper at all???

If you got an aftermarket computer you'd do away with the MAP sensor anyway. Just run off the O2 and CAS. The MAP sensor is the main reason why it's hard to put quads on a 4AGE, there is no good place to get manifold vacuum...

Well, the TPS would link onto the linkages, and if I use anything non-Toyota I'll need to do this anyway... Or I could get an aftermarket TPS... :thumbsup: Haha, me and my dreams...

Umm, I don't get it. So the indicators sit further out? The oil cooler is pretty much... right behind the numberplate. It's just left (toward passenger side) of center.

Hey, better you find out now than have your engine fall out right? :thumbsup:

A test to see what a signature will look like. Isn't it just as easy to find a post by yourself and have a look, instead of starting a new thread?

Was sitting in front of my car yesterday while the tailshaft loop was being finished off, and looking at my bumper. At the moment, my oil cooler sits in the gap above the front spoiler: This all seemed like a great place to put it: Well... until the bumper went on: *doh* Anyway, so there I was sitting there, and I thought maybe if I drill some holes in the bumper, I'll get more airflow to the oil cooler. Is it even legal to drill holes in your bumper? And then I realised another thing, I can't really even drill many holes in the bumper, because the numberplate is in the way... Maybe I can move the numberplate too? I think this whole idea is dodgy. What do you think?

Interesting, maybe this is the problem with Haikals car. Well, it hasn't had the problems for awhile now since we fixed the timing etc, but it used to runon sometimes, but generally only when the engine got quite hot...

Actually, when you think about it... Throttle bodies aren't very complex are they? It's a block of alloy, with a hole in it, and something to open or close the hole (butterfly, or slide etc). Hmm. There must be more to it, I must be missing something...

I'm not in Malaysia, but I'm from Malaysia, so maybe I'll put me down too: Name: Fook Location: Brisbane, Australia Cars: 4AGE KE35 coupe (1975), SV21 Camry wagon (1987) Webpage: http://www.fookstar.com

Cool, I've like, walked around Lismore before.

Jamie: 4AGE has injectors in the head, not on the manifold. Doug: Apart from being harder to fit a 20v in (mostly due to the dizzy, and also due to the water piping), the torque curves on the 20v are also a fair bit different, as far as I've heard. The 20v's are a bit like the Honda VTECs, they make good power, but they make it all in a fairly narrow powerband. I've been told that the 16v is a far more flexible engine. That said, it's all stuff I've heard, nothing I know as a fact. Anyways, to drop the 20v in, you'd have to convert to either DLI or do a dodgy and move the dizzy up front (like Acoustic had on his 20v for a little while). Or mount the engine further forward so that the dizzy clears. And after all of that work, you'll have a stock 20v. Aftermarket computer on the engine would give a hell of a lot more options, not only would you be able to get your engine running *perfectly* for it's current setup (quads or no quads), but you can run bigger cams etc etc etc, things you can't do with the standard computer. Putting big cams in a 20v is hard, because of the VVTi. Putting adjustable cam gears is also hard, again because of the VVTi. The 20v engine is a better engine in some ways to the 16v, but it makes it harder to make it go any faster...

Don't you mean brightness and contrast?