demuire

Wow, how can so much go wrong, and yet still finish 10th outright and 2nd in class? Legendary :D

In case you're thinking of putting this into a road car, you won't be able to get it engineered, due to different emissions standards for cars and bikes...

Nick: Hmm, dunno. I just hooked mine on to IGN, cause I figured then it would work as long as the car was running. If you hooked it up to the what switch, wouldn't it only turn on at what? Then when you're cruising down the highway etc it'll be off?

Oh yeah, to avoid any confusion, the "grounding kit" I talked about initially is like the HKS Earth Ground Wire System And the "grounding strap" I mentioned later is like one of those straps you hang under your car :D

Of course you won't feel any difference, you're only turning it on when you flick your high beams on! Which I'm guessing isn't too often... No no, you should hook it up directly to IGN, that way once you start your engine it starts to work. Wiring should be simple enough - red is positive, black is negative, and if yours is the EFI version then hook up the yellow wire to the output of your TPS (so that it gets more power on what). I've heard that there is another version for carby cars (mine didn't have this), that hooks up to the coil and so varies the power according to RPM. Don't know what difference that makes, I'm guessing it makes it more efficient or something. Oh yeah, don't get those grounding straps, they're a gimmick. Cause, if you put one of those straps on, then all the negative charge that your car picks up, will be grounded to the road, so you're losing power. If you don't put one on, then all the negative charge will just be put back into the battery, so you get more charge, and more charge = more power!

Those rust inhibitor things are AWESOME! I had one on Pinky, and if you mod it to take more power, you can actually SEE the rust turning back into normal metal! Kinda voids your warranty though, but yeah - stuff just stopping the rust, turn it back! How well do those hi-clone things work? I had one ages ago, but it was like a cheap China made one (called Hyper Psycho Cyclone or something along those lines), looked really cool, bright blue and yellow, but it didn't seem to do much apart from make the intake sound cool. Oh yeah, also with those fuel polorisers, make sure you plug them in the correct way around (red wire to positive, black to earth) or you'll make your fuel economy worse!

UTC and GMT are the same but different. I think the actual time zones (hours) are the same, but they are calculated from a different time:

Don't forget to get one of those "grounding kits". Helps to get bigger spark and stuff, stop the engine from picking up any static electricity that can interfere with the electronics. Also, run thinner oil in it (like 5W), makes it go faster.

Haha, and it's supposed to hit us somewhere in the eastern hemisphere too (ie, where we are, UTC +10). 850 megatons is a lot of energy... And if that "tiny" earthquake in Indonesia caused a tsunami that big, imagine what this would cause, if it hit the sea!

2004 MN4 Impact Risk 2004 MN4 on Answers.com

Going to rear discs did make a difference. I didn't expect it to make any noticeable difference, but it did :D Rob: Thanks for that... But you're also about 50km away :doublebird: Besides, I think maybe it's about time I thought about getting one, instead of scratching my head and trying to borrow one everytime I need one... Then again, with my current financial status... Hmm.

Yay, diff is put together. Came up to $385... YAY! Pick up tomorrow morning. Then I have to go and get myself a slide hammer so I can get my axles out and start looking at getting bearings. I wish I could get the bearings without taking the axles out, but I have no idea what sort of diff I have, and my spare axles are different in length and have different bearings, hmm! Which ones are correct???

No, don't need center rebuilt. Just put into the diff carrier. Including actually buying the diff housing, and all that, the diff owes me about $3K now. That was with a new pair of discs, but due to some clearance issues I had initially, they are now warped, so I need to get another pair. Or maybe I'll see if it's possible to machine them or something. Axles are standard, so no resplining.

Umm. Dunno. I've got T3 ones.

Cusco. It was like $100 more than the TRD one, I figured it was worth it since everyone tells me that it's much better than the TRD one...

I'm actually running -3 degrees now :D -1.5 from the RCA's, and -1.5 from a combination of Scorpion control arms and adjustable strut tops :doublebird:

Before you go an embark on the mission to put an LSD into your old schoo Corolla, think about how much it will cost. I didn't, and now I'm regretting it. This LSD had better be God's gift to the world. Remember that on top of actually buying the LSD, you also need to get a diff to suit, brakes to suit, possibly (and probably) new bearings, oil, and all the other stuff that goes with getting a diff set up. My diff center ALONE, to date owes me just under $2500. That's with no oil. The actual LSD was only $1300. $700 for gears, and $450 for new bearings, and the labor to put it all together. On top of this there's wheel bearings, buying and setting up the actual diff (cut mounts off the Celica diff and weld on new brackets), and in my case, new discs for the brakes. So yes. Want LSD? Then buy a car that already has an LSD, or be prepared to pay the world for one. In hindsight, I probably would have just settled for a locker.

Jamie: I have neg camber RCA's, and I pulled an extra 1.5 degrees neg camber...

3T you'll never get engineered in your car anyway, it's too old. 3S, I think you can re-use your gearbox and just about everything you already have. 3SGE's and 3SGTE's also came in other cars, and even come in the current Altezza. Rather nice engine, but yes, you do pay for what you get.

I sold my JDM bellhousing :S Only cause I already had my clutch etc all setup on the passenger side...

As far as I know all FWD 4AGE's that came in Australia are MAP sensor. Only the MR2 ones are AFM.

Question: Why a 4A? If your Corona already comes with an S motor of some sort, why not stick with an S engine? A 3SGE perhaps? Or a 3SGTE? Personally, I think the 4A would be a bit too small for a Corona. As popular as it is, and as good as it can be, it's still a 1.6L engine...

Apparently only the KE1x had that "feature"...

You can convert from an auto to a manual, so I'm guessing you can convert it the other way. I'm not sure of any details though.

My 4AGE makes a bit of crankcase vapour, I've had to empty out my catch can about twice in the past year... And that's doing about 7000km's...