towe001

Why ?? Drill out the bolt and either re-tap the thread or heli-coil the hole.... Any engine re-conditioner can do it. If you get them on a good day they'll give you slap on the wrist and do it for next to nothing....

Its called mates at each rear tire well and/or oil...... Kinda reminds me of the time i watched a couple of mates getting a little old scooter up and smoking more then a what we had a 250 road bike doing

Yeah thats one thing that shuts me to tears just about. Just like "Oh look i think thats a rust bubble." so i'll dig up the paint with my keys to see if it is a rust spot and if it is a rust spot i'll see if i can dig a hole through to the other side......

No This is what a gear drive looks like The cam still runs in the same direction. When its in good condition the drive to the cam is positive no slack etc like what you get with a belt/chain. But the wear rate can be a little high, unless Teflon coated gears are used but then you miss out on the whine from the gears....

I'd go else where. The same thing happened to me when i had my old t18. I got told that i needed four new tires, new shocks all round, tie rods ball joints on top of the wheel alignment that i asked for. Was going to cost more then what the car was. Went around to another place and got told that yes the car needed a wheel alignment and no extra to grease up the left hand ball joint......

I did walked into jb hi and got the help that i needed with the stuff that i wanted.

Might have to lay off the curry a bit

Which part of "NO" don't you understand..... Went to Harvey Norman the other day to buy a laptop and x-box 360 on their "buy now pay later" thing. Its through Buyers Edge which i hold, thought thats ok..... i was fine with spending about 13 hundred bucks, till the little dip-shut started telling me that I NEEDED this norman whatever anti-virus program, this you-beaut whatever it was firewall, a $130 surge protector, if i want to connect to the net i have to a wireless modem AND a wireless adaptor for the laptop, dumped me with a five year warranty. All up a bit over an extra grand he was dumping on top of me.... The little phucker wouldn't even listen to me telling him that i have an anti-virus program, i have a firewall, i already have a surge-protector, i have a wireless modem and the laptop has wireless as standard.... Anyway, went through the process of upping the limit for all this crap... and got rejected ??? Three times he tried. He even tried putting the stuff under my girlfriends name. Mind you i was pretty happy that it wasn't working for him. Wound up walking out of the shop listening to him abusing other staff and punching this that and what not. All this while on a busy saturday....

And in some councils, like toowoomba, it can also go as far as wiring, switches etc....

I could have said Autobarn for cheaper prices. I paid about $5 cheaper on the swaybar link bushes and about $10 cheaper on the swaybar mounts for my ke55. And i didn't have to worry about the extra cost in freight, either

Going by a gear driven v8 it'd be a minimum of three. Do a google for "gear drive v8" http://www.jp.com.au/GearDrives.html

Either way its still an interesting read and interesting possibilities

the "K" motor is 1077cc The manual is for a 3K (1166cc) basically bored out to 1293cc running on its standard 66mm stroke. Equals high rev motor

Thats cause the pads had finely, and quite nicely i should add, bedded them selves in to the rotors Wouldn't have much problem with heat soak on the rotors either. There's nothing there for the heat to soak into......

Thats cause the a/c is on period. On "econ" mode the a/c turns on and off at set engine revs and set engine vacuum points. At a guess i'd say you've also got a problem with your idle-up valve on the throttle body which would the reason why the motor almost stalls when you turn the air con on

Got talking to one of the guys at work today about how he went with the hail storm last night. He copped a nice belt of it, all we got was the heavy down pour and one hail stone......

You could if you want but make sure he doesn't have a little sign saying "tank in use" or "grey water" etc, cause he'll be allowed to do what he wants when he wants as long as its from the tank or grey water

My 18 month old son pulled down his mums top and "BOOBIES" My lil man knows whats what

You'd be able to use the ke55 speedo gear drive (or what ever its called thats in the gearbox), yes ?

Ditto on that Redwarf. Makes me think of the sudden influx of red p platers getting around in the past month or so.

From memory i paid around $150 for the front rotors (AE93) and around $100 for the AE102 front calipers. So at a guesstimation i'd figure around the $250 mark on the rear disc/caliper combo (pair of) and figure in about another $100-$200 for other crap you'll most likely need - hand brake cable, hubs, etc etc. And thats a rough guess. In a way is it really worth the hassle of converting to rear disc. When you could spend less money on upping the front brakes Or you could do a finger and foot search of the papers, wreckers, etc for a wrecked AExx twincam and do the complete brake upgrade along with a few other niceties

7shades and Hiro you have my 2 thumbs up for that But at times its not just the attitude of the truckie but also the company he/she drives for. Some take the attitude of do as fast as possible while some take the attitude of - we've marked out the route and the rest stops so this is roughly how long it'll take with safety taken into consideration

It all depends on where bouts, colour and smell......

Getting the discs would be pretty easy. Just pop into any auto place that sells DBA rotors and ask for DBA708 rotors (can get these slotted as well) and then go for a hunt for some AE102 calipers (and not AE101 calipers) through the wreckers... Or AE112 calipers which also fit Edit - As a note the AE82 twincam, AE92/93 GTi,SX share the same rear discs. Not sure about the calipers though. Which was solid disc 242mm diameter x 9mm wide with a center hole of 54mm. The AE10x series and up had a solid disc 266mm x 9mm but with a center hole of 55mm. It doesn't seam to be much but its what locates the disc on the hub. And from memory the brake biasing was mostly done by the size of the rotors which is something else to look into with the master cylinder

Including the rear hubs as well. Their different - the disc version has longer hubs compared to the drum version. I think from memory the ae82 twincam is a possible swap as well. So is the ae92 GTi Edit - AE82, AE92 and AE101 Brake Upgrade Guide from the ToyMods forum