Robski
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Sorry guys and gals I went over my calculations and found that the original rim was in fact 13x5. So I re-measured and re-calculated and the numbers above should be now correct. Personally I am leaning towards running 15x7 (ET 0) at the front and 15x8 (ET 0) at the rear, due to the numbers showing that it is reasonably close to stock positioning, as well as keeping within the original guards (without rolling). As stated above just need to check the full lock measurements to see if there is room to move up front with the 15x7s.
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I have been mulling and calculating wheel offsets over the past 24hrs and this is what I have found so far (of course this is what I will be running, but may be of some help to others) Now just to set the scene this was done late at night so please correct me if I am off the mark. The original size wheel for a KE30 was a 13x5 (or at least that is what Betsy had on her) The mounting point for the wheel to car was 4 inches in from the inside of the rim therefore being 1.5inches of positive offset from the centre (0 offset). 1.5inches = 38.1mm therefore the offset of the original (wheels I had on Betsy) is 13x5 ET+38. Now the fun begins. First using a straight edge (level) and a ruler I measured the distance between the outside of the original rim and the inside of the guard, which was around 57mm (remembering this was done late at night. Then playing round with the wheel sizes as well as the offsets this is what I found. Remembering I want the new rims to sit inside the original lines (rolling of the guards or lipping them is also an option if needed). 15x7.5s (ET 6) put the wheel the same distance from the strut and push the entire rim 64mm further out. But then I found out the rims I was after don't come in 15x7.5 :bash: So after much fooling round with the numbers this is what I ended up with (fingers crossed it is right). Front 15x7 (ET12) will pull the wheel 1mm further away from the strut and push the entire rim 52mm further out. Giving me 5mm (of the un-rolled guard) to play with. However I am still yet to investigate the rubbing or turning (full lock) to see if it hits anything. Rear 15x8 (ET 0) put the wheel the same distance from the strut and push the entire rim 76mm further out. Making me have to roll the guard to find an extra 19mm. Now if I was to go 15x9 at the rear which I am still considering (due to AWESOME factor :rocknroll: ) the best option I found was 15x9 (ET -13) for it will be in the same position as opposed to the strut and push the entire rim 102mm further out. Reason I'm leaning away from this is that I will definitely have to roll the guards to allow for that extra 45mm, or maybe even run flares (which is something I do not want). Other option The other option is to just run 15x7 all round and fill the guards out with spacers (if needed). So now as for the rim selection this is what I was looking at: Diamond Racing - Pro Street Wheel I would go for a simple white wheel and run 205/50 at the front and 225/45 at the rear so that they really fill those guards, while maintaining the original lines. I think these wheel would maintain the retro styling that I am aiming for as well. What are your thoughts guys and gals??? Also took delivery of my gearbox today. Found a nice RB20 box that is incredible and the price was great so ...... (I can already see some of you shaking your heads .... BUT) I know I am yet to acquire an engine to go with the gearbox YET!!! but when there is a good deal you have to just jump at it. I will post more pictures soon, I promise.
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I have been mulling and calculating wheel offsets over the past 24hrs and this is what I have found so far (of course this is what I will be running, but may be of some help to others) Now just to set the scene this was done late at night so please correct me if I am off the mark. The original size wheel for a KE30 was a 13x5.5 (or at least that is what Betsy had on her) The mounting point for the wheel to car was 4 inches in from the inside of the rim therefore being 1.25inches of positive offset from the centre (0 offset). 1.25inches = 31.75mm therefore the offset of the original (wheels I had on Betsy) is 13x5.5 ET+32. Now the fun begins. First using a straight edge (level) and a ruler I measured the distance between the outside of the original rim and the inside of the guard, which was around 57mm (remembering this was done late at night. Then playing round with the wheel sizes as well as the offsets this is what I found. Remembering I want the new rims to sit inside the original lines (rolling of the guards or lipping them is also an option if needed). 15x7.5s (ET 0) put the wheel the same distance from the strut and push the entire rim 57.4mm further out. But then I found out the rims I was after don't come in 15x7.5 :bash: So after much fooling round with the numbers this is what I ended up with (fingers crossed it is right). Front 15x7 (ET 0) will pull the wheel 13mm further away from the strut and push the entire rim 51.1mm further out. Giving me 6mm (of the un-rolled guard) to play with. However I am still yet to investigate the rubbing or turning (full lock) to see if it hits anything. Rear 15x8 (ET 0) put the wheel the same distance from the strut and push the entire rim 63mm further out. Making me have to roll the guard to find an extra 6mm. Now if I was to go 15x9 at the rear which I am still considering (due to AWESOME factor :rocknroll: ) the best option I found was 15x9 (ET 0) for it will be 12.5mm closer to the strut and push the entire rim 76.5mm further out. Reason I'm leaning away from this is that I will definitely have to roll the guards to allow for that extra 19.5mm, Other option The other option is to just run 15x7 all round and fill the guards out with spacers (if needed). Hope this was of some assistance, and I know it is frustrating, so GOOD LUCK with the selection. :hmm:
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Hey guys and gals, My name is Rob and I am currently embarking on a 1975, 4 door, KE30 build. I plan on putting an SR20DET into it and a nice power delivery system including RB20 trans with SR20 bellhousing, a R31 Cheers ith Borgwarner 4.11 gears, disc brakes all round, coilover front, panard bar, tramp rods, abd a lot of other nice shiny bits. Then the styling will most likely (but not for certain) Diamond Racing deep dish steelies with a JDM/Rat Rod feel to the car with race seats, gutted interior and basic dash. Anyway if interested the link is http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/67373-betsy-the-little-ke30-that-knew-she-could/ Look forward to maybe meeting some of you and bending your ear about anything car orientated. Cheers Rob
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I thought the pegs were going to be instead of bonnet clips!!!! You know to save 0.00001 grams. LOL. You know I'm a big fan of your work mate but I agree with the other Rob. It was a poor effort not color coding the pegs!!!!
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Thanks for that Stuart, because I will be replacing all the seals in the whole car I actually cut the inside of the seal with a Stanley Knife, so that it was only the horrible tar like gunk that they use holding it in. Next time i know not to start at the corner of the windscreen for the weight and lack of flex in it was what made it go POP!!! And thanks for the vote of confidence in the build.
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Small update on Betsy. As you guys and gals are most likely aware, I had a small moment of insanity and put Betsy for sale both on here and on eBay. This was due to me doubting if it was even possible for me to continue let alone complete this build. This lapse was (I think) due to the new bubs being almost here, working unheard of hours at work, and then coming home to work on the house. However after talking tonight with another mate I soon received the reassurance I required. Now all glass but the rear window is out. I tried to get the front window out in one piece but as you can see from the pictures I failed and the loud POP of the window made me jump. So I tarped the inside and out came the hammer of Thor to knock it in.
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Moment of insanity is over, the Betsy project WILL CONTINUE!!!
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Hey Craig, how much could you do a set of those flares for?? I'm very interested. PM me.
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I Know and I will just going to be a little strapped for cash over the next 12 months or so (2nd baby due early Jan) so will have to just get the body in tip top condition (for it basically wont cost anything lol). I'll be ecstatic if I can manage to sort out my diff (full R31 with disks/panard bar/brace etc that I found for $100) and my suspension. I figure work from the ground up and see where it goes. But thanks for the vote of confidence Craig, I will be following this thread closely and transferring some of your ideas to my road car (if you don't mind that is).
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Wow Craig mate you are amazing! and you can definitely tell this is not your first creation. I am only early in my build of a Street KE30 4 door, but I think I may incorporate some of your amazing ideas and use the motivation that I have gained from reading this thread to really hit 'Betsy' hard in the new year. I especially like the pedal box and the reservoir placement. Thanks mate, can't wait to see the finished product.
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Been doing some research myself on the mini spool and the information that I was fed is actually incorrect. So as it lies I will be looking to go for a LSD not the mini spool just for drivability.
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What would you suggest for the springs (I'm relativity new to this whole thing)??? I am under the realization that 'YES' things will be changed and altered on the fly but I would like to get as much correct first off as I can, so as it only needs tweaking once on the road.
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Thanks for the feedback, I am pretty much sold on trying these coilovers out. :thumbsup: As for the entire setup here is a rundown of the bits and pieces I will be looking at including in the suspension. - Fortune Auto 500 v4 coilovers in the front with 8k or 10k springs + radial bearing mounts - T3 Front Lower Control Arms - T3 Tension Control Rods - T3 Negative Camber Roll Center Adjusters - McDonald Bros Track (Tramp) Rods - McDonald Bros Panhard Bars - Nolothane Bushes all round - Most likely a custom sway bar. That will start us off and then it will be a matter of getting the setup correct through testing. :yes: Any thoughts??? Do you guys and gals think this will be a good starting point??
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Just a small update. Lucked out yesterday and scored myself an R31 diff (complete) from a friend of a friend. Now just for a road trip to Bendigo to pick it up. As well another mate has given me a, practically new, mini spool to go with the diff. So now all I need are some 4.11 gears and a cut down. Also I was suggested by another forum member to check out a company from the US called Fortune Auto for coilovers. The distributor of them is Manon Racing Products (MRP) in NZ. So I emailed them got a quote for their 500 v4 coilovers that they will custom make for the KE30 at $900 delivered. I think it sounds pretty decent for a shinny new set of front coilovers. I have been reading a lot of revi on them (for other cars) and they seem quite solid. So I may have to just bite the bullet and be the guinnie pig. Here are some pics of the coilovers What are your thoughts??
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I contacted MRP in NZ and they said they could build me a set of fronts to my specs that, as you said, just need to be welded to the original strut tube for $900 delivered. I am reading some reviews on the Fortune auto 500s and they seem to be solid (from what I have been reading), so this may be a way to move forward. If anyone also has some experience with the Fortune Auto 500s I would appreciate some feedback on them (including what spring rates for the front of a mainly street car, occasional track and strip).
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Still trying to find a front suspension setup for Betsy (KE30) that I will be happy with. Please send me your thoughts!!
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Cheers thanks Filfrederick I will check them out.
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I have been hearing a lot of people asking the question about putting AE86 adjustable coilovers into the KE30, however there has been no direct answers. CAN YOU USE AE86 ADJUSTABLE COILOVERS IN THE KE30???? and if so what do you need to complete the conversion?? Cheers Thanks for your help.
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Cool so if you don't mind what have you used (complete front setup) and how does it work?? 5 stars or is there some areas for improvement.
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Cheers mate, I was thinking they may be something along those lines but thought I'd ask Just in case.
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Just wondering if anyone has or know anyone who has tried or is using theTechno Toy Tuning weld on front suspension??? Link is below https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ke30/weld-front-coilover-kit-ke30-corolla
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Hey guys and gals, Not so much a Betsy update but more of an organizational update. Got some more of the Garage organised so as I have more room to work. As can be seen from the photos, new shelving under the bench, a hanging board to get things up and out of the way & finally I got my engine mounts from Jordan, cheers mate they look awesome. More to cone soon.
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Hey Guys and Gals, Not much has been happening with Betsy lately, I have finished removing the wiring loom, YAAAAAY!!! As well as the engine bay is now completely stripped, and the steering column has been removed. Oh and I started on some small rust repairs. I have only taken a few spots back with the wire brush (pretty rough at the moment) plans to use the orbital sander on them later, sprayed them with the rust converter to stop the spread of any specs i may have missed and then put a coat of primer over them, just to safe guard. I have also ordered my block mounts, rubber mounts, gearbox cross member & complete bolt kit for the SR20DET through Jordanrolla. Heard a lot of positive things about his conversion kits, as well as it takes a lot of the messing around out of it (my thoughts). Can't wait to get them and see how we go.
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Hey guys and gals, I have been browsing your rigs and they are all very unique and very cool. I have just recently started a KE30 build of my own. I have just finished the strip down and now we are moving onto the bodywork. Eventually it will be home for an SR20DET (S15 model). If you are interested you can follow my build blog at http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/67373-betsy-the-little-ke30-that-knew-she-could/ I would much appreciate the support and insite into this construction. :lmao: Cheers.
