Des

Thats good to hear, I read as much as possible of your posts so it wouldnt be the same if you were'nt around. The right chick will come round eventually you just need to keep on the watch for them :P A xf on gas 140 is pretty good hahaha.

well instead of pushing the fuel up it can suck it up, Or am i talking shit and theres no way it will work ?

You can't even see it coming just passing over.

Oh your not getting away from the dirty calipers that easy lol nah, $50 for some one else to paint them is pretty good :P

Make a template using a old oil bottle or aluminum or what ever you have lying around, I used aluminum but other people have used a bit of plastic cut from the old oil bottle. You can either use these marks to line it up or use the studs from the brake master cylinder. Your brake lines might be in the way of where the clutch master needs to go so just slowly and carefully bend them out of your way. Once you have your template made up mark out the holes on the firewall, If your using the template listed in the photo you will need to mark it and drill it from the engine bay and if you used the brake master studs you can drill it from inside the car in the foot well. Once you have marked out the holes accuratly you can start drilling, Find a drill bit that is suited for steel and is the right size of coarse. Drill out stud holes 1st and make sure they line up with your template and you havent moved around a few mm. You can use a hole saw and cutting fluid to cut the cylinder hole but that can be a bit messy and a good holesaw isnt cheap, I drill a 8mm hole in the centre and drill lots of holes around it and then hit it with the deburring bit i found mine in the shed, Clean it up so there isnt any sharp nasty bits around that can stab or slice you open. The fire wall is pretty strong stuff so it might take a while to drill through at 1st but if you let the drill do the work you will be right. Test fit the clutch master cylinder in the holes to see if you did a good or shit job. If you did a good job it will go in with ease and come out with ease with out catching on the firewall. Grap ya pedal box and slide the clutch pedal over the steering column and try to get it in the original spot. Push the brake master cylinder back in so the studs go into the pedal box, Sounds easy but its not. Once the pedal box is on the studs put your clutch master cylinder in and do up all 6 nuts holding both master cylinders in finger tight. Push the pedal box back up and try and put the bolts back in at the very top of the dash, I needed 2 extra people to help push mine up and screw the bolts in so it is a bit tricky. Once the pedal box is in the correct position and your happy with it and it all looks good tighten up the bolts and nuts holding it in. Pull up the steering column and bolt that back in its only 2 nuts so its pretty easy. Now you can start putting the dash back together PROPERLY. If you removed the 2 dash supports other is hiding make sure you put them back in the right order or you speedo cluster wont fit in later. To get the rest of the dash back together do the opposite of the 1st and 2nd post. Any questions ?

Unscrew the four nuts that hold in the brake master cylinder, If you are moving the pedal box from a manuel you will only need to unscrew two nuts on the clutch master which is located right next to the brake master. Pull the locking pin out of the pin that holds the brake pedal shaft to the brake master cylinder shaft. Pull the big pin out. Unscrew this one black bolt under the steering column and disconnect the brake light switch wires. There is 2 last bolts behind the windscreen air duct that needs to be removed. You can either break it to remove it or spend another 30 mins taking the rest of you dash off to get to them. I will cover the rest of the dash tomorrow.

hey hey, i know some one will ask eventually how to remove the pedal box so I'm going to write up a how to guide. Tools needed a decent socket set with metric sockets and spanners, Philips screw drivers and flat blade screw drivers and alot of patience. First off remove your steering wheel. You will need to remove the screws under and around the gauge cluster, the screws hold in the black plastic surround. Once that has been removed unscrew the 4 screws that hold in the gauge cluster and it will come out and remove all the plugs. Remove all the circled bolts and nuts. the two bolts along the top need to be removed the whole way along the dash pad. Remove the glove box by 3 screws on the back black section of the pull out tray. Look no glove box. Remove the screw from both sides of the dash near where the doors close. There will be a few of these under the pad holding it down, these must be unscrewed to remove the pad. The dash pad will now come off and this is what you should have so far. You need to undo these 2 nuts from under the steering column. This wire clip needs to be unscrewd from the fire wall so you can get to a bolt behind it. Unscrew the 2 bolts as seen in the 2nd photo below. Still going so just wait a min.

KE70 pedal box is out now after slicing my finger on a metal bracket and more blood going every where.

Before you pull apart your car get some brake fluid if you do it my way. After you have taken the wheel off undo the brake hose from the caliper and fluid will go every where just don't let it touch your paint work and make sure you have the right sized spanner so you don't round off the hose nut. Undo the two bolts on the back of the caliper and the caliper will come off and the pads will either fall out or little wire clips holding them in place. This is what it will look like once the caliper is removes and the rotor(disc) removed. You can see the hose is still attached but it is easier to get it undone while the caliper is still on the car. once you have painted the calipers and they are dry put them back on in reverse order and refill the brake resivior under the bonnet and bleed the system with another person to help you as it easier with 2. hope i helped Des :P

You can now get drunk legally. You better make it a good day. :P

I'm going to see if cameron has it or i will go to the wreckers as they have a few VL's. I'm going to pull out the pedal box from the KE70 tomorrow and I AM going to put the dash back together myself :P .

Smart people open the door before they try and walk threw it, Yes i walked into a door. I'm not posting a photo of me because i don't want to be banned for post unsuitable material.

Can the lift pump be mounted in the surge tank instead of the fuel tank ? EDIT: i think i will just mount the surge tank in the boot in the spare tire well for now.

lift pump is now mine.

Diff is out, crossmember is out.

Looks tough minus the bonnet.

hahahaha maybe, I will be marking every thing in the KE70 and keeping the nuts and bolts seperate. I'm not to sure how put this seal kit threw the slave's and master, does anybody have any tips for me ?

I bought a clutch master and slave seal kit aswell.

I did some work today on the AE71 :) . I pulled the clutch master and brake master out. The pedal box is out and lets never speak of the dash again. I also found a bolt and brown sludge in the clutch master :( .

Bumperless it looks hot to me.

:) corolla trannies

Ive got a few car dvd's here and they have it square and mounted to the fire wall on the passengers side but thats a fwd crx.

Didnt think about the engine bay, Do the pumps need to be close to the surge tank to work effectively ?

I want it mounted in front of the diff and not in the cabin so I'm quessing it will go under the car but i will be going off road and i don't want it ripped off half way out to bumf**k