camerondownunder88

BTW block is decked as 4age pistons have the pin more towards the top of the piston and are less top heavy like K motor items. This is why block decking is needed. Also 1G rods have the same part number as some 4K rods so why not stock rods just use 1G pistons in a 4K and turbo. Cheers Cameron

If yuour building a tough K motor bottom end first thing you will do is ditch the 18mm gudgeon pin size stock rods have and go 20mm. 4age rods will give you 20mm. If you use 100KW 4age stuff you will need to deck 5mm off the bock there abouts. this will keep your compression but can't go back to using K stuff really block will be to short. Also all the TRD K motors ran calito (spelling I think is a bit off) rods. When I last looked price for a set to sit a 4K was $900 AU. 20mm pin and well were good to over 12,000RPM and a very nice item. Also If motor is N/A a good set of ACL/general brand pistons on the right set of stock rods polished shot peened adn all the works doen to them will be strong. Talked to a guy once who race a 3K he built had everythign roller rockers etc the lot said he worked out a K motor stock rod is good for about 140WK motor build before they can start to fail. And just putting it out there there are 3 yes 3 types of conrods for K motors int eh 5K range. On eis better than all the others. don't have the photos on me but soon as you see all 3 next to each other you will notice quick the better one to use. Also a 1.99mm shim in the oil pump will give about 80PSI oil pressure at the inlet to the oil filter with cold 20W-60 oil. And when building a 5K block up careful witht eh cam shaft a noram 4K/3K/2K/k etc cam shaft is slightly different and can puntch the rear welsch plug out the block piss oil down the fire wall and ruin your day seen it happen. So messure messure messure parts don't assume there the same as some 5K are a bit off. Cheers Cameron P.S. What cyclinder head you running?

How did you strip your panels? They do look CLEAN AS :yes: Keep up the good work

Yes....

UPDATES: Well got AWESOME news :) Tonight I confirmed my restored powder coated stone chip tray for under the front of the car is going in the post :D Should be here soon so that is that Item taken care of. Also tonight got the rear braided brake hose line in the car :y: Pics below: Looks AWESOME. Now to clean up the rest of under there..lol Also while I was in there noticed was dirty as so on weekend after putting clear coat on the car if I have time (going bass guitar jamming) ill be stripping the rear wheel wells and stone chipping them like I did the front arches so they look the part. Also will change the small rubber line from fuel tank to metal fuel pipe looks old don't wanna risk it. So that is the updates for now watch this space.... Cheers Cameron

WOW you buy stuff at Autobahns............They are such a rip off most of the time..LOL They quoted me $94 to mix 1L of paint for sprinter with an eye match only and only to a color chart GO GET f@$kED. And they said it would take over 1hr and would serve other people in preference of me so I left. Paint shop put a sample of paint into there color scanner mixed it all in about 10min. Half the price. don't shop with autobahns. Also I source parts from anywhere apart from big chains really. Bushes I got at super cheap BUT only place that had them from my limited searching as there price on bushes is pretty good. I did however use a discount card so was cheap also had to order them in. Otherwise I try to source parts from the manufacture much cheaper MUCH cheaper cut out the middle man..LOL Oh well off to fit my new rear brake hose :) Cheers Cameron

Also pic of new bushes in stalled and old bushes:

Hi, Tonight on my KE15 I wanted to put my new bushes I had recived for the car in now a lot of people can find this hard so I thought Id post up a way I did it that was easy and can be done with limited tools. Well first off tool list: (this is a rought guid I used this but others may not need some of the tools) 1 Car scissor jack from boot 1 Bottle hydrulic jack. I had a 2 tonne and a 5 tonne both fitted in a KE1X where needed so use what fits. 1 flat blade screw driver 1 saw of any type or really sharp knife 1 12mm spanner (might be different on other cars) 1 hammer 1 drift (wood or metal or anything will work) optional 1 G- clamp Ok now you have your tools lets get to work. Steps: 1. Make sure the hand brake is on car is on flat level ground and jack up the rear of the car on one side where you normally do to change a spare wheel. I found on the KE15 I had to jack the car to a point where the wheel was just about to leave the ground so I got the springs to move to a good spot so I could work on then. This is done so less force is stored in the leaf spring making it A) safe to work on B) easier to work on. 2. Now take your bottle jack and with it compressed sit it up on the leaf spring and jack it just till it touches the bottom of the car. Now you want to place it on the spring as close as possible to the rear eye of the spring so when jacked it will bend the rear of the spring down. I did this as leaf springs will want to bent towards the car when not bolted on this prevented the spring bending up and not being able to get the link/bushes out and back into the spring. Also allowed me to move the spring and hold it in a spot so with just my self I could then fit and torque up the new bushes/nuts. (above photo was taken after cutting bush and all this is at about step 6 but is a good photo that shows A) jack in position holding spring down B) Side of bush cut on the spring eye again this is step 6 C) How the top uncut bush is larger at the top then the hole they slide into) 3. Remove the 2 12mm nuts on the rear of the spring eye and car chassis. 4. Remove the flat plate that slides off the link. Drift can be used here might be tight. 5. Now for the fun part with the jack jack it till the spring bends down just enough to relive the link of any force so the spring isnt pushing up on it or the weight of the car isn't pushing down on the spring. If you get the weight right with worn bushes the link will just slide out. If it is a bit stuck play with the jack height or hammer and drift. 6. Now that the link is out get sharp knife/ saw and cut off one side of the bush that sticks out of the leaf spring. Reason is they usually are molded larger than the spring eye. So with this removed get drift place on bush and hit it with hammer. Old bush will be able to slide out other side and it is done easily. Saves trying to push bush through or burning it out and risk burning the car to the ground. Do this on the car bush and leaf spring eye bush. 7. Give the link a good clean/blast/paint etc. 8. Now install new bushes with lots of suitable grease and put them in the car and in the spring. Should go in by hand if you find it tight/ hard to get them in. Get a G-clamp and simply have them ligned up and press them in both will go in at same time :) 9. Now again repeat step 5 but instead install the link again intot eh new bushes. Since new bushes have better shape etc than old ones I found I had to jack the jack up about 1 pump to get the link to slide in easily with new bushes. 10. Put other side of link back on and do up the nuts. 11. Repeat process on other side of car. Again jack to same height with scissor jack to take weight off rear wheel so less force is held in the leaf spring. 12. Job complete :D Now this is a suggested way to do this job easy as piss at home with limited tools. Can be done slightly different etc but again up to the user to do what is best. Also a 5 tonne jack pushing on the bottom of the car could do damage. Go slow be CAREFUL. Cheers Cameron

Hao good to see you finally over on this forum now :) When this is going well have to both take our sprinters out for a drive. But....DRUM ROLL UPDATES: Well on Friday of last week I got super keen to start painting the car where I had fixed up some patch repairs. So from work I took a few drop cloths for painting to cover stuff and make a temp spray booth. I took an Iwatta spray gun (not sure if that is how you spell it) and a few other things and I was ready to paint. Then on the way home took a pannel into the paint shop in North Ipswich (they supply all the big pannel beaters here) and got 1L of matched paint. I used a acrylic primer so I got an acrylic top coat. Cost $40 :D So went home moved a heap of stuff in the shed around to give my self some space made sure filters and water traps and all on the aircompressor was clean cleaned shed top to bottom from dust (from recent dust storms) then set up the pannels to paint. Saturday rolls around and I start painting :y: Now ill warn you I am NO pannel beater by trade never touch the stuff so mmm lets say paint job lacks a bit but it is good for now :) I go no orange peel but a few spots like small have that hairy feeling to them. Now being paint thinners and all I haven't taken photos yet but the car is now rust free and no bog and all painted up. So after doing that I was feeling good so I stopped doing any more on the weekend. But I did ring a friend and now am borrowing his buffer off him to buff back the paint then I'm going to get some clear and hopefully this weekend get a few coats of clear over it so it should look good :) I'm happy for a first ever effort at painting...LOL So then came tonight I got home from work and just felt like working on it. And today in the mail arrived: So I got megga keen tonight and I put them in. WOW what a difference. The original 40 year old bushes weren't to bad but man the car rear end is so much harder now sits higher and when bounced on can feel the force being transferred right to the springs and shocks and it isnt jsut the original rubber bushes flexing. HUGE difference so thumbs up all round :) Ill do up bit of a how to do this thread soon as I did it with limited tools and that today so might help someone who needs to save some cash and do this job with out paying some one. Also noted the rear spring to car links I noted on both sides of my car were heavily worn on the bottom bolt that goes through the spring eye. The top ones were like new. Pic below explains what I mean: So I am not sure if this is normal or a KE1X thing? Anyone else found this? Also to be noted I bent the link slightly on removal wasnt bent when in the car..LOL Well now after finishing the bushes I took a step back and noticed car just needs a tune, really good clean, top coat of clear paint finished and it should be ready for rego and driving :) So watch this space. Cheers Cameron

In my KE30 the stock Ariel stopped working so I got a Ariel from a torana and plugged it n and extended it inside the car under the dash..LOL had the fascia off found I could extend it about half the length of the dash PERFECT reception. Also worked on floor of the car so even try finding a small areil and putting it in the dash or under passenger seat front or rear. Cheers Cameron

Hi, I saw this on ebay AWESOME car. You will enjoy this one. And it has some very tastefull mods. But can we get some pictures of inside the trans tunnel? I wanna see how they fitted the T50 gear box as I know a KE70 K50 needs a few hammer taps to squeeze it in so would be interested to see if a T50 fits or needs hammering. Also with your seats there stock. KE15/17 had removable head rests as an optional extra. So Jip KE30/55 were not the first to get them. But there was a lot of differences from KE15/17 SE to SL sprinters. Some are listed below: KM/H speedo was optional in the KE15/17 so makes life easier if you have it mine has MPH :) Dash sprinter dashes are fake wood grain in finish. ONLY SL sprinters got a tacho dash SE and just sprinter (3 types of KE1X sprinter SE, SL, and jsut a sprinter type) so if you don't have a tacho dash it was originally prob an SE sprinter. SL sprinters was stock with front disc brakes so if the original owner up graded to them again prob a good sign it is an SE sprinter. Also SL sprinters were released with 2 types of front disc calipers different brand run same pad so look out for that. And steering wheel SL got wood grain, SE optional wood grain jsut a sprinter was the black plastic normal one. Also the Sports model KE11 could get a tacho dash adn wood grain steering wheel factory jsut point that out so not only sprinters got the good parts. And if you still have the original KE17 motor there a fair bit different to a normal KE motor wont list here atm but hang on to the stuff. Keep us updated with the car. Cheers Cameron

Also stock 5K springs are heavier than normal 4k/3k/2k springs :) And yes will handel over 8000RPM. Cheers Cameron

This might help.... Taken from the Toyota factory engine building manual for K motors. It is surprising what Toyota have printed in some of there manuals here and there. Cheers Cameron

CONT.... After that (well actually did the front first..LOL) I did the front of the car. Strippped it bare and spray painted it black :jamie: pics below of final product: Also side note a KE30 front bumper will fit with KE30 mounts onto a KE15..LOL And pressing on..... I then got super keen and stripped the top face of the chassis where the panels bolt on. As the original owner had taken them off filled this area with like sica flex foam stuff put pannel on so they wont rub together etc. But this was a pours foam goo thing water got in I could see the damage it was doing. So Stripped the tops to bare metal and rust proofed them and re-painted them pic below: And again didn't take before photos but wasn't to bad after stripping off the foam no welding or anything needed LUCK :dance: Then I continued on to re paint the small panels that bolt in under the wheel arch to stop dirt getting through into the door hinge area. Again stripped both to bare metal and re painted and rust proofed. Didnt have a weld at hand so couldn't repair the bottom of them as dirt over time had built up and was starting to rust away the bottom of the panels. Pic below of one of the panels painter and the bolts painted: So that is all I have done till now tonight so hoping on the weekend to get at least one of the front panels painted. Fingers crossed I'm on a roll... Cheers Cameron

^^^^ http://www.yellowpages.com.au/qld/bundamba...49-listing.html Baileys Brake and clutch best shop in SEQ to get brake stuff done they did my master cyclinder booster all new hoses and all in my KE30 other week stops so well now and cheap :dance: Any UPDATES: I got some more painting work done. I got all the front pannels off the KE15 and noticed one wheel well was half painted black other was fully black with a lot of dust/dirt and a lot of over spray orange. So I got excited thinking ill strip it right back new anti stone chip and have it all black again. To my amaze ment the original owner never washed this part of the car when he painted it the first time :jamie: So out came the tooth brush lots of degrees er and water and about 4 wash dry wash dry..etc cycles later it went from this: TO THIS: Now the above photo was a half way shot you can see the front is clean and there rear I hadnt done yet. I also then cleaned the rear half and then all over another 2 times but don't have a after I was done the whole thing photo :bash: BUT long story short the guy who owned it painted over the white (original colour) still covered in dirt with black, got dirty again then painted car orange locking in more dust AHAHAH So jsut by depressing and washing I got the whole wheel arch to white again wish I had that photo..LOL So then I proceed to strip a few spots that looked like they were rusting and NO RUST. Apart from small spot in lower left of photos. So out came the stone chip and black paint and went crazy. Finished result: You can see how good this has come up looks a million bucks also did passenger side. Might as well do both sides when the whole front end is off the car do it properly once. CONT next post....

Hi, Not to mention the better ride but will be HEAPS safer on the road. But why did you need a new windscreen? Cracked? Cheers Cameron

Hi, Well that is the thing I have had WD40 on them now for 2 weeks no luck :) there stuck on really good. But it looks like KE10 rods that join the 2 tie rods (think there called radius rods) have like 2 nuts on the end I though they were lock nuts of some sort but can't turn them either :y: Think I might have to try to get some heat into it. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Other weekend I went for a drive to O'rileys. On the road there just past the winery on the road to the top of the mountain I found: KE50.. Had newer QLD plates so must of been crashed and dumped a while back with in last 2 years... Cheers Cameron

^^ Wont be attending these events as still not road going yet..LOL Well time for ....... UPDATES: Today on the way home from work I dropped into the brake shop with the rear brake line I had spare off a KE11 to get re-made in braided hose for the rear brakes :) Well Pic below of results. Can see old and new hose in photos: Cost $30 to get hose made while I wait took 5 min to make but they were so busy that I was there for over 30min made me late to my bass guitar jam :y:..lol Now for some factual information: All KE1X cars KE17, KE15, KE11, KE10, KE16, KE18 all run the same rear brake hose. I have all the KE1X part number books and they all are the same part number. I had a diff froma KE11 with hose attached and removed it and compared it to the KE15 hose and it was the same. The thread in the brake hose is M10 X1.0. The part number of a rear KE1X series hose is: 90947-02045 In a KE1X you only need one of these hoses as it goes to one drum then the other drum is connected to the first drum via a solid brake line that goes across the diff. There is also only 1 bleed nipple for the rear of a KE1X since it uses this setup. But will try to get this on this weekend. Also a while back the car had a really bad spot of bog on the roof well ages ago I got off my ass stripped the section back and found...was the smallest dint that needed no bog..LOL The old owner put some on the spot and spread it for 1km radius so roof looked even as. I didn't like this bog was cracking etc. So I stripped the section and it came up like below: You can see the pitted area this is where the bog was but I kept stripping as I wanted to make sure I got it all. I then put a TAD bit of bog on the main bit of the dint about 70% less than original owner and sanded primer and did all the stuff you do......Then for the real task of painting it white again.....Now my local shop in there book has over 250 different colors they can mix just for "white" that doesn't even go near cream, grey, etc just WHITE. So thinking I could do it cheaper and prob get it right as the car would of been just "gloss white" bout a small amount of gloss white. Results :y: well its painted..LOL wont rust. Roof isnt normal gloss white so got a huge rectangular are that is a different shade of white stands out 78.42 KM away so ill re do this one day but will pass rego with this fix so I'm happy. Ill get a picture of this spot when there is more light..LOL Also got keen then and the front drives side guard had bog in it again after 40 years was starting to break apart so I decided ill strip the whole front end off and clean it up etc as KE1X are know for rusting out in the lower area of the chassis rail where the lower front guards bolt on so I spent some time stripping the car to pieces. This is all I have done now so hope fully tomorrow night ill get the whole front end washed thoroughly or ill strip it and re dot eh stone chip coating and black it out again. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Went to remove the inner and outer tie rods on my KE15 today but the adjuster in the middle wont unscrew off them ;) I didn't try to force it as it looked fragile but how is this achieved? What is the best way to remove the tie rods from the connecting tube with no damage. Cheers Cameron

Hi, HQ Konis in the back of a KE10 interesting. But can these only work with your super low ride height Majordad? Also what other options are out there for KE1X rear suspension will say KP61/30 stuff fit or AE86 fit a KE1X? And when finding a shock is it as simple to find right length or is there more to it? I am very new when it comes to suspension. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Find my ride thread on my KE15 go to my last post I just did a brake upgrade on my KE15 a stock master cyclinder get it rebuilt is cheap and better than new with stainless steel liners etc. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Have a "semi-mystery" Diff on my bench in the work shop and I need to know how to measure it so I can narrow down exact model what it will fit etc. Also if possible can some members measure the diameter of the splines on a KE3X and newer diff and a KE2X and KE1X diff and count the splines? I have no spare axles out atm. Cheers Cameron

Hi, I didn't have a welder when I did that rust repair :) Also don't breath the dust from that glue in...not nice. But glad this thing is getting a good clean up deserves it ;) Cheers

UPDATES: Been ages since I posted about the KE15 and it still is not on the road ;) But very close just have to finish paint work and it is all go. So I will make a start on that soon. But I have began my break upgrade :) Decided to finally get off my ass and do it. The original brakes looked like: The new brakes are made up of: NEW KE70 brake rotors NEW KE70 brake pads (high performance high heat ones) NEW braided brake lines NEW wheel bearings Over hauled calipers NEW brake fluid Over hauled master cyclinder Flushed brake lines and repainted. All new clips and small attachment items. Blasted and repainted KE30 backing plates Picture of setup below: Picture below of the over hauled master cyclinder: The master cyclinder I had a spare KE1X one so I sent it to the brake shop and for $160 I had it rebuilt with new piston seals and all the LOT. So when it came back I just had to swap the original KE15 one with the rebuilt one. This way I will always have one ready to go. The brake lines were bit of a stuff up. I was told KE55/70 lines would fit on the KE1X NOT quite. At full lock the upper hose was stretched to the max so I didn't like this and it was unsafe so I took the original KE15 brake line and the KE55 brake lines I had and went to the brake shop again and asked them to make a custom braided hose that was a KE55/70 bottom from strut to caliper but KE15 top wheel arch to strut. They did this and it fits like a glove. And the best part was in the shop and he was making braided lines for a MG club and he had left over so he did braided brake lines at the cost of normal rubber ones :( So $60 for new brake lines very nice. So to keep it all neat I got new clips to hold the brake line to the car and all as the original KE15 items were a bit rusty/old. While fitting the brakes I got the original items off and all oiled up and in a box safe in the shed for re-use again one day. But I found where the seal is in the back of the hub that keeps dirt out of the bearings they were so old it was not even touching the axle :( And it looked like the original owner overhauled the bearings in the hub and kept using them..LOL So The stub axle has soem very minor surface rust on it. So I got some 1200 grit paper and polished the sealing surface right up again so it makes a perfect seal. Then fitted new bearings tot he hubs which I wire wheeled and cleaned up. and then I fitted new lock nut thrust washer and all in the wheel bearings so everything is tight, square and new so hopefully wont have any issues down the road. So brakes are all refitted and finished now :) So I will now just got to get a rear brake hose from car to diff the rubber one made out of braided hose also now as if one brake hose on a car is braided they all must be braided. But stops WAY WAY better now :( So happy with it and looks 1 million $ better having some nice calipers no rust on rotors now under my rims. Hope to get the rear hose re-made this week. Cheers Cameron