camerondownunder88

I saw you trev :jamie: I also waved just as you passed me on the bike. Been spotting each other a lot lately..LOL

I have never owned a factory turbo car but I though lots ran waste gates over a blow off valve?

Yes if you google this issue of SURGE a LOT of people get it totally f@$ked up and don't know what there on about. I build commercial gas turbines for a living and I see a lot of surge. If you want to know about surge look up surge in aircraft way more in depth info and it is the same and the person who wrote on it prob explained it better. Turbine in essence can't swallow air so comes back out compressor is VERY short but violent. I have seen 2000HP gas turbines main shafts fail and twis backwards due to it. Same can happen to a turbo. But RARE in a car to happen as you have pistons in between your turbine and compressor so they help. Many new GT range on garret etc have surge grooves cut into the front of the compressor scroll. i wont go into how they work on here I think ill max out my word limit in a post..LOL Cheers Cameron

YEs it is VERY VERY bad. I have seen surge spin the compressor on the shaft and well bores it out and turbo was stuffed. You don't want this happening. Cheers

WOW hope your ok didn't expect to read that. Well if you look at it to from the front drivers side looks like a sprinter so ah mod it chop the roof rolla the panels straight got a KE10/15 hybred..LOL Ah hop you find a body cheap and 3rd gear in this car you would of been moving. Cheers Cameron

When I mix bog I mix in a few spoons of iron fillings (from hardware shop). So when buyers think there all cunning and pull out a magnet to run over the car to find bog they don't :dance: Iron filings make it magnetic and will even make it rust..LOL So that's about my limit...LOL

Parrot I have some info on this car to in an article. I believe it was just a K-B head. But a dealer was selling them as "factory worked heads" down south forget if it was Sydney or Melbourne And article is not at hand to read atm. So they probably pulled there win result as compaired to the stock small port head it was modified. Also AMI offered factory extractors and twin carbies. Twins well they were the normal twins. But my mechanic of all people was asking me about my sprinter the other day and he told me he used to own one :dance: and showed me a picture of his it had these factory extractors. They looked like pacemakers 4 -1 but had a Toyota badge kinda logo thing weld to it. And they were NOT cast items but stock. But his was full JDM from aircon to the tool box to fender mirrors. He stripped it and sold it but about 5 years back :cool: Ill have to get a picture for you off him if I break down in the near future. But lots of stuff was offered for the KE1X that was optional like the personal package. Interesting stuff in that one.

Your master cyclinder could be on its last legs. Other week I got mine recoed for my KE15 (all KE1X had same master cyclinder) cost me $100. Now runs all new seals piston stainless steel bore etc. So if your doing the brakes just go the whole hog and do the lot. Cheers Cameron

Hi, If your seal is gone and grease wont stay in just grind it like I said above. Diamond bit int he die grinder ate through my bearing in a second or two and it just pooped out then :no2: Also should point out I did run a 5K in my KE30 with a KE70 gear box with no spigot bearing for about 6months. Never had an issue and ran and changed gear fine. But I know other cars that would go up gear till 3rd fine with a dead spigot bearing then get jammed in 3rd till you were at a dead stop was weird. So how bad is the old one? could you leave it there? And a very very important tip when installing a bearing never push on the inner race always use the outer race. Or the bearing will be dead as soon as it is installed if you push it in using the inner race. I made an installation tool from a bit of brass machined to size it contacted the outer race and then a hammer tapped it into the crank. Cheers Cameron

I don't use a puller. I get them out the grease and bolt method (well I use an old 4 speed input shaft LOL also good clutch aligning tool after replacing the bearing). But I had just an outer race once stuck in a crank I got a grinder and carefully cut a slot small tap and pin split in 2 and fell out. So id do greese and bolt or grind CAREFULLY. Also with bolt/shaft and grease method hit it really hard they can be in there quite tight. Cheers Cameron

Second shot.

Might as well put a pic of the KE15 up. Worth a shot to get it in. Cheers Cameron

Hi, I never got mine shot peened :P But I wish I had now..LOL But so far mine has held up for 2 weeks doing min of 650KM a week and already has hit 7000RPM before so should be good. Cheers Cameron

Parrot we didn't ask about machining them down its jsut a thread of how we did it and Pics that is all..LOL Hopefully we wont get the same response as that thread..LOL But I left the flywheel at the machine shop said I want lighter not to much and told him How I wanted it done. Then faced and balanced. All for $40 :P So should include a ballance. Cheers Cameron

Oh heck yes go lighten it. I never faced mine after 3 clutch changes. So if you do a gear box swap face the clutch face grip will improve heaps. Also I did notice a difference picks up a lot better and for economy I limited/removed my accelerator pump from the carby. After lightening the fly wheel it took out the hesitation the car had on a sudden acceleration. But I didnt take to much off to affect a hill climb but I never drive up hills so haven't tested that fully yet. But best $40 I spent in ages. BTW got it done 2 weeks ago so that is a current price a shop should charge. Cheers Cameron

Oh pics of the front: Cheers Cameron

Hi, I take it you an engine builder by trade Paul- Just last week I actually did an engine swap in my KE30 blew a head gasket. Was easier to swap a new low KM 3k in then fix old one..LOL But while in there I did the same to mine. I used a older 3K flywheel but. They are different and slightly heavier than a 4K one. But it had a thicker middle section and inner part so though it would be a bit stronger in the center. I jsut started from the flat section where it begins cleaning up the surface skimming it then cut the raised part on the edge back so it was thinner cleaning up its surfaces. Then I just machined the outer edge level with the ring gear. Pic below: While at it I faced the clutch face needed a bit taken off so the whole front of the clutch was refaced to keep a good step between the clutch face and the rest of the flywheel..LOL So can kinda say I lightened the front..LOL Cheers Cameron

Hi, I went wrecker hunting today in Brisbane/Ipswich area for KE30 axles but BW diff type. So list below is the price for items wrecker etc: Ipswich Auto Wreckers (on warrick road yamanto) $35 each for axle from KE30 diff only had 1 BW believe he had 1 jap one also. Give him a ring. Bundamba auto wreckers: Only has KE55 and upwards wants $55 per axle (most expensive) has a few KE70 and KE55 and a Turbo charged 4K KE55 with 5 speed etc all there. Bonanza wreckers (lobb st Ipswich) $35 per axle if he had them. He only stocks KE70 and newer these days. This wrecker is 1km up the road from Ipswich Auto wreckers. The IAW has WAY more stuff corvets down to rollas and he has an importing license he only gets shit from the USA but :bash: and he charges more than Bonanza in Lobb st so I get a price from Bonanza and play him off even when Bonanza doesn't have the part..LOL And IAW always drops there price he is easy to bargain. Brassel wreckers (one on highway going out to west) $44 per axle if he had them. Currently has NO KE stuff he insisted. wouldn't even let me go for a walk around the wrecker. Those prices were sourced as of this afternoon Roo. Ill PM you IAW phone number you should ring him about a Jap KE30 diff. Cheers Cameron

Love the miles per hour and Km per hour sticker on the dash..LOL How cool. Neat ride.

Nice where do I buy a set? How do they work you jsut hear scraping of the curb or a light flick on etc? Cheers Cameron

Just use one of these bad boys: Was EXTREMELY hard to get rare as. BUT it is an original MSD TRD system for a K motor :D there are 3 different types of ignition for a K motor TRD made. 1 was early CDI MSD system. then this later one. Then one that was for electric dizzy and used individual coil packs. This one uses points dizzy but packs way more punch and multiple sparks (manual is in jap but I can make out about 6 sparks at 8000RPM per cyclinder). And it stops arcing in the points so they hardly wear only the lobe on it so adjust grease and off again. Cheers Cameron

I change starters by putting a jack on the altornator mount and taking off the exhaust side mount like Felix. WAY faster than manifolds etc and wont ruin gaskets. As for reduction starters they I guess start the car faster but I have never found the need for one and a normal starter can start my high compression 5K in my KE15 so for a stock 3K id jsut use the same type of starter. But in an old KE1X upgrade the starter to battery cable. I did this in my KE15 as after 40 years it all starts to break downa dn wow engine started tice as fast adn I added a few more earths to the motor. Cheers Cameron

If you run a GT40R coil on a electronic dizzy it will shit its self...Dizzy needs to run at full 12V on the 2 wires that go to the coil. If you under power it it will die in a few months. don't wanna kill a electronic dizzy. Get a GT40 if you want the GT series coil as they run at a full 12V. But I still think the stock denso coil packs a fair punch so try the wrecker for one. Cheers Cameron

^^^ Taz can't pull the grill out of a KE1X with out openign the bonnet it is screwed in from the top and is metal so can't snap it out..LOL I have the books at home I can look tonight for an idea to remove it BUT try removing the stone chip guard and reach up from under the car. Should be able to pull the latch. The cable goes into the side of a KE1X latch adn pulls sideways towards the drivers side if that helps with how to guid your hand/screw driver..LOl Cheers Cameron

hi, Posted this on the other forum your on mate yes different tapper for the ball joints. can't jsut use KE2X items. Cheers Cameron