kickn5k
-
Posts
2350 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
42
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by kickn5k
-
-
So I'm deciding on if I go coilovers or not. Probably go 4kg springs.
-
Ok, the Munroe ke20-55 shocks arrived today, look well built. Now the spacer in the wiki, is 5mm too long for this insert and I reckon if you turn 5mm off the length you'd be perfect. I'll do this tomoz and get photos, just in case.
Issue #2 the ke20 spring I have is about 20-30mm too short to be captive. The spring i have has a free length of 240mm. It also is about 1.5-2mm too big in diameter to fit in the perch on the strut. I'd think with some mild heat and vice grips it would fit. A 270mm free would be about percect id think.
-
1
-
-
#8778's have been a nil stock part number at peders for 10+ years. Oh and until feb they only have one #8716 (ke20) in the aus warehouse too.
The rear shocks work well.
Been playing on my front-end lately. Best off keeping an eye on the other thread I'll be posting what ive done there. Are you planning on keeping the transverse leaf?
-
2
-
-
Nah mate Vic northern suburbs to Vic se suburbs. Should have them Thursday.
-
13 hours ago, rolln69 said:
So Tommy ran that Monroe shock in his ke10? It's got 413mm compressed length and 606mm extend length. Worth a shot you think?
I've just pulled the trigger on a pair. Will let you know how they fit when they arrive.
-
1
-
-
12 hours ago, parrot said:
I asked the ebay guy for the same measurements for the rabbit bilsteins.
body length 320, compressed 430
Extended 545 diameter 38. Stroke 115Look pretty close.
Spoke to Stuart the other day about what they'd used in Tommy's car and he put 4kg coilover kit and used Munroe #25-3810 gt gas which appears to be ke-20 to ke-55 listed numbers. Said it handled great with nice ride comfort.
-
On 23/11/2017 at 10:20 AM, rolln69 said:
Kickn5k I just realised that it was your post I read lol. Can you tell me why you ditched this set up? And must you run 20 ball joints when you swap the strut...
Why I'm ditching them is for a number of reasons.
1. I have my camber plates maxed out and it still has a half of a degree of positive camber.
2. It will also give you a heap of negative caster, while making it epic on turn in, makes it really darty and unnerving at 80km or above, if the roads not perfect.
3. The ke20 ball joint must be used, biggest problem with that is, they are slightly loose in the wishbone. Mine has two small tack welds to hold it in place.
My car sufferers from severe bump steer and tram tracking, while the semi slick rubber on the front probably contributes to the tracking slightly i'm thinking getting back to standard geomety will give me a better base to work from.
-
Been out and about this morning with very little found. I am waiting to hear back from my local Peders suspension with what will work. I also have a good friend I completed my Mech Eng with who is an F1 handling engineer(can't name the team or driver though) chasing up euro options too.
What i did find was the part numbers at peders are the same for ke20 through to ke55. Unfortunately they only have one insert in stock and aren't re-ordering until Jan next year ☹
I'm now desperate my as my car is on stands until I figure something out. On the up side of it all, it will give me a chance to take final measurements so I can spin up some nolathane wishbone bushes.
-
I've just got one the ke20 struts out and apart, they are wet legs too. I will strip one and take photos tomorrow for you.
So I too need inserts. I should have have an answer on what is available tomorrow.
Cheers for the measurement Parrot, will give me something to start with.
-
I have one of the real early signature bars they made, I've got zero idea what people complain about em. Honestly only touches them at full steering lock, I hardly get near full lock, if I do it's only at carpark speeds and one pump and the brakes are back to normal.
Ke20 inserts also work BUT getting anything with sport valving is a pain to find these days.
-
50 minutes ago, parrot said:
https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Lowering_KE1x_Front_using_KE2x_parts
There are supposedly some thinner AW11 inserts, at least in the interweb talk.
Not sure anyone has found them though.
I have some KE1x inserts if you need measurements
Yep don't work and all the suppliers only have listings for the bigger diameter ones. I really do mean all suppliers.
I'm doing a "de-conversion" of my ke11 from ke20 struts over the next couple of weeks, can take some photos if you need. I would seriously recommend getting a front swaybar though, they are still pretty average without one.
Oh everything now seems to point to mk1 golf inserts working but I can'tcinfirm yet.
-
Straight water has the best thermal transfer rate of any liquid. The glycol is only there to stop the water freezing and slow down corrosion.
The funnel trick 100% works. Just ask yourself why do all the top of the line tool companies make a variant of it.
But then again I'm not the full quid apparently, so what do i know.
-
My offer on help still stands Ben.
-
I usually cut the bottom off a 1.25ltr soft drink/water bottle. then wrap the thread bit for the lid with enough electrical tape for it to be tight in the rad neck. then fill to 3/4ish and run until the thermostat opens. Turn off and remove bottle from rad and fit cap! I guarantee it, learned it from an ex holden tech who worked there when the VL was released. The rad is a fair bit lower then the highest water point of the engine.
-
Should take close to 32deg with std comp, id have thought.
Best way to cool inlet charge is E85! Shave a fair bit off the head throw those slugs in shoot for 12.5-13:1 you'll thank me later..
The torque would be insane with std cams too.
-
Here she is mate.
-
To the stupid Merc suv driving cow that thought screaming at her kids was more important than not running me off the road. Enjoy walking your kids to school for 6 months, you deserve it!!
-
1
-
-
Was the driveshaft checked for balance before installation?
-
On 18/10/2017 at 1:09 PM, ke70dave said:
Megasquirt does the lot. Fully programmable engine management system.
The trick is that its so flexible that you basicallt need to build your efi and spark system from scratch.
Nah Megawrecks make good bin fill. There is a reason no tuner in Aus worth their weight will touch them. They have zero flexibility in crank and or cam triggers, all I see on other forums is poor fuel economy figures or exploded engines.
-
Wow! Gives me some hope for my 11 then. The 205 would be the biggest rear i could fit under std rear qtrs with just a lip.
Beast of a street car good luck with the 9!!
-
On 09/10/2017 at 1:28 PM, ke70dave said:
haha well i'm taking sponsorship for my m3 purchase.
Completely moved into house now, workshop setup, car lives in the garage too. Let the projects begin.
Aren't we all. It was an absolutely stunning condition car too. Is a leather option car factory, so he had Renault cup leathet front seat(original front seats were mint) and a ppm brake upgrade. Rolled up on my lunch break, I nearly fell over when I saw it. Once I'd lifted my jaw off the floor I thought it'd be a good idea to get a photo and slam it on here.
Goodto hear you're finished with the renos. I hate doing that crap with a passion. Haha
-
Looks like the chassis/suspension setup is working well.
What rear tire you running these days? X235 et?
-
It really does need to look something like this.
-
Welcome Dan, unfortunately the majority of us here are Aussies, so it may be difficult to know who in Canada or even the US would be good for you. It may be worthwhile checking the area specific sub forum I'm sure we have a couple of members in BC so it could pay to send a private message as they will/should get an email notification.
Now thats a cool 510 2 door sedan, we only got the 4 door in Aus. Can't seem to post a link but if you search "dirty datto" the thread for mine should pop up. She's FJ20 turbo powered and makes about 450hp at the fly wheel.
Stu.
AE112R / 7A-FE intermittent idle surging, fault code 31
in AExx Corolla Discussion
Posted
This ^^^
This is a well known problem for late 80's and 90's Toyotas, only did this yesteray on a non turbo jz80 supra. Air gets trapped in the T/B area and tricks the ecu to believe it's running cold.