kE20ME

cheers Raven :y: ah na I'm still where you came last time, haven't got as many ke20 parts as i used to, but still a fair few... been trying to get rid of them as the last ke20 i owned was my white 13b one, and that was aggges ago. the pics where taken at my mates place which resembles a house hahaha p.s that bamboo coloured ke30 is for sale.

hey guys and girls.. i have been meaning to do this for a while as motivation to keep slow long term projects moving along, :y: and to show you all my cars...so here we go... i have had 5 or so ke20's but always loved the ke1# shape more!! :hmm: This car is my long term project has i have never driven it, owned it for a while now, every now and then i work on it although recently have rarely had the time! i have a ke10 project car, its a clean shell with next to no rust, and straight as, i have had the guards, bonnet, boot, etc.. all the hanging panels sandblasted and primered. its 99 percent complete (bar a few easily sourced items... all badges, bumper bars, interior etc is all there..) just needs paint- i have striped it basically completely bare and begun sanding it back but I'm still saving for a good quality paint job. I'm planning on restoring it to factory specs. my mates are trying to convince me to put a 13b setup in like i did to one of my ke20's but thats highly unlikley going to happen!!! although i do have a 5k and side draft webbers sitting in the shed so that possibility is always there. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ i recently bought this as a daily / summer cruiser. after selling my rx-7.. Its very clean and original condition genuine 82 thousand miles on the factory 3k motor. 1970 KE-11 2 door SL model- 4 speed manual standard red interior with only a tiny rip in the drivers seat stiching. All i have done is service it, and got whitewalls and took off the original mudflaps... still in two mids weather i should have left them on... all i plan to do is get the dash reskined as there is a few small cracks, and seat seam re-stiched and just enjoy it!!! :hmm: still needs a good clean, and polish, buts here is a few piccs let us know what you think :bash: the only other thing is possibly a ke20 front disc brake upgrade, so if anybody has some lieing around let me know, but for the time being the drums pull up fairly well! cheers henry :dance:

yea dude the car used to live in mitcham... seen your ke20 driving around a bit as well... makes me miss mine minta one.. ahh reele i didn't put that gearbox in the dude before me did he did swap over from auto. maybe its still the auto cross member or somthing :no2: but the drivers side mount for the cross member has a nut and bolt not just the brackets thread... which you get to by lifting up carpert on drivers side youll see what i mean. this is if you wanted to drop the gearbox and take cross member out. good to hear your getting it all sorted out for roadworthy!! cheers henry :dance:

:no2: my old car!!! already missing it man!! goodluck with it, and keep us posted on how it goes etc.. :dance: cheers henry

yea cheap ones need some sort of water proof silicon stuff.. expensive ones clip / press on like factory toyota seals..

i had an good time in the rx7 first time i have had it out in ages in the hills... i bailed at norton summit headed to lofty instead of continuing on to loberthal with the rest of the crowd was certainly a nice night for it :) so jordy i guess the question is weather you and your car are back in one piece yet at broken hill??

shotgun not having you behind me on sat night then :hmm: haha only joking i know all about the quality ke10,20 and 30 brakes.

jordy i definatley try and make it!!!! :dance: be good to catch up ill let everyone else know and see who is keen

would love a wagon like that red one... i would also be keen on a t shirt when they happen so put me down for a couple as well cheers :wink:

it will most likley have a different grill, and indicators in the front sourrounds and flat front bonnet as well... compared to indicators on the guards, and pointy grill and bonnet :yes:

a girl down aldinga way owns it, last i heard it was being fixed up / restored -having all the rust fixed up in guards and bonnet.. saw it at the bay not to long ago, look the same but needed a good clean and has a hotrod style side mirror now on the door frame! scotty will probably be able to fill you in on more?? but sure was a a sick little corolla!

couple of pink ones... and one white one :)

i wanna spray my ke10 in the original willow green it once was!! or white at this stage... still sanding it back :P

ahah cheers you are also very wise :P .. sounds like you have done a conversion or two as well??

i was just simply baseing it on extras that rotor doesn't need like aftermarket computer somone to do all wiring of ECU fuel pump- rotor ones are like 60 bucks were as you would need a decent EFI one for CA cooler and various other things... but i mean i have never done one of these (CA18) conversions but have done enough rotary ones... and i can see where your coming from jordy.. with all the fiddly bits with the rotary motors. just in my personal opinion a rotor would be easier and slightly cheaper... but in both cases it would depend on specifics... :P

a ca18det would be a hell of a lot harder, and more expensive than a carby rotor to put in man!!! :P

as jordan said... my mate is pushing somwhere around the 190 mark outta of his PP 13b and a J port would be a barstard to drive in a ke20.. it would rattle the little thing apart on idle :wink: you would be looking at 2 g alone for engine and box.. if you want 130 kw. as a decent s4/5 turbo box is 500 a motor (if it has all accessories) is around the 1000-1500 mark... especailly since you want 130 atw.. so you would be looking at a brigey or a big extend port with a webber or somthing so 1500 plus for motor easy... then hydro clutch setup, along with custom oil cooler lines, radiotor, mounts for motor and box.. your already easily in access of 3g.. and thats if you find a motor that will drop right in.. you would want a old style 13b rx4 /5 or one that has had a 12 a front cover put on, but if you decided to do this yourself more complications start.. for instance you get a s4 or 5 turbo block.. you need to swap sumps.. block up injector holes block up a heap of other shit, you will need to modify your oil pick up as well or find an old style rotor one.. if you can't find an rx4 style sump which are roughly 150 bucks or so as they are rare now.. you can modify your own eg: re drill or cut and swap turn round pan... but this all takes time and money you need custom extractors ones with a small bend.. that allow room to clear your steering box.. pending on how you mount your motor... (i have a set of these still if you decide to do it) :hmm: you also need a new exhuast and it quite hard to do as you want to get them so it goes OVER the gear box mount cause other wise it hits everything... rotary motor have exhuast ports... on oppisite side to K motors so exhuast needs to cross over under your car.. if you want to have any chance of fitting a rotor flow muffler... as you can kind of make room and mount them well in the standard muffler position the other side you have no chance as wheel well and other shit is in the way.. (i still have a complete 2.75 inch exhuast as well as the extractors to suit 13b in ke20 ) for sale ke20 diffs are alright i blew i think 3 or so of the early style diff.. no matter how well they were welded..but looking at your display pic it seems you have a 73/4 model so you should have the "pineapple" center style diff and you can lock them fairly well and i never broke one of those rear ends... but didn't drive the car for a long time while this diff was in!!! breaks are a must.. but obviosly not crucial as the car will still drive with standard ones.. just not pull up heaps well... but i mean thats a owner and a sanity thing!! you will also need coils, and wireing changed / done which isn't hard at all...farily basic thermo fan farily big one.. but skinny as there is not alot of room in there with an oil cooler rad and motor.... a decent size radiator i used a torana modified 3 core one... with modified outlets etc.. but you could use a good condition rx7 gen1 one.. or basically any thing that a decent size and you can mount there!! with the both the outlets on the same side!!!! as thats what a rotary engine requires.. and it looks dodgey if you run a massive top hose that crosses over mine was like this for a while until i had it changed!!! so much neater!! you will need a modified shifter housing on gear box to bring it back to sit somewhere reasonable in the car... otherwise it will be back near the middle of the back seats almost.... you need to (weld up the old hole) or be dodge and leave it... and then cut a new hole for new shifter tailsharft mod, just shorten it and get a mazda yoke and balance if you are keeping the corolla diff. (NOTE: 71/2 to 73/4 have different diff flanges i found this over with jordan when we swapped rear ends in my 13b ke20 from early to late model ke20's..) you need heaps of other small stuff.. such as correct clutch pin, to poke into clutch master cylinder and mounting of pin on clutch pedal (as cable ones never had it there to beguin with) accelerator cable and various other things... go onto ausrotary.com and look up / search for info on mazda 1300's and 1200 and capella's etc.. cause its basically the same thing... i know you said you can get the gear cost price.. but unless you are very good with a welder and can make up your own decent mounts, exhuast, get a motor and box real cheap and are farily mechanical minded i highly doubt you will get it in there and running for under 3g. but i mean i could be wrong.. sorry to rabble on for so long.. i was just reading the posts and thought i may as well put the info up there for everyone to see but dude go for it.. you will learn heaps... and have a good time especailly when your driving it mine span up very easily in third with the standard 12 inch tyers on the back.. and had no problem wrapping ringys... and as i am sure jordan will comment i am a fairly conservative driver.. i am sure it could have done alot more i had the whole running car for sale for like 4.g.. just funny how it was for sale for sooo long ... and now there all this talk of people wanting to do it!!! you could have had a whole running car and put all my gear in there and used the shell as parts or wrecked it or somthing.. but oh well.... guess people weren't hungry for power back then... thats another thing you'll never get your money back on these as people are hesident about buying cars that can't be insurred and are basically coffin's on wheels but power to weight you blow heaps of cars... i took out my mates sr20 turbo 180sx no dramas at all.. but a hint of advice is do it once and well.. not dodgey you want it to step up to the punishment of the drag strip and skids.. build it well... and then you will save yourself down the track!! just my 2 cents worth sorry for the really long post cheers good luck with it man henry :y:

trans was modded slightly jordy.. :wink:

nat My old little cruiser loooks PIMP man good work man, i never got around to putting this little beauty up for everyone to see.. you are finishing what i started, and probably better than i would have as well due to all your contacts in the mechanical side of things ;) its looking nice man.. best little cruiser after i put in that 5 speed... :wub: good work man... well catch up soon scotty will love seeing this..... he'll feel like me right now and thats regret of selling it ahhaha :jamie: P.S i have first dibs on it when you go to sell it still :D :n: