MrMasternes

New problem. Ignition only occours when the starter is engaged... Any ideas @Banjo ?

I've thinking of doing a carby upgrade for my 3K engine after I realised how crap the Aisan carburettor really is. I've been thinking of doing a 32/36 DGV upgrade but in the end for a carby + adapter plate it would end up costing over 700 Australian buckaroos. I made my spreadsheets and added up all the taxes and the shipping costs and it seemed like a reasonable deal for brand new stuff. But then I came across this guy that was selling these twin Weber DCOE 45's for about 600 and then I thought what if I added another 300 for a manifold and I would get a pair of twin DCOE 45mm's. Has anyone done this upgrade. Since I live in Norway I'm worried about the clearances from the brakebooster in my engine bay. Does anyone know how tight it will be in a KE30 engine bay? And how would you link up these carbies? :)

Since I live in the cold winter land up north I can confirm that this is the case with older cars! My rolla always spit a little bit when I start her up in the morning! :)

The coil seems to fire when it's not supposed to. I think that's why it jumps on the tacho. Yeah it did happen as soon as I changed the breaker points. I also changed it with the dizzy on the engine. I just lifted up the cap. The points look exactly like the old ones. I did not see any protective coating... do you need to brush the surface with sandpaper or something? I've checked with a multimeter that it is conductive when the point is closed and it breaks the circuit when it's open. The timing is fine as far as I can tell. I've checked with a timing light. My only concern is that the timing might be advancing too much when the rpm goes up. I live pretty much at ocean altitude haha so that is no concern :) At first I removed all the leads and then removed the cap but after a while I realized it's just easier to remove the cap while the lead is still on and then move it to the side. While thinking about it I did get an electric shock going near one of the wires when the engine was running. I might have to check the HT wires conductivity. I'll order some right away. These are probably the original 40 year old wires that came with the car. I cannot check for a light show at night since we still have midnight sun for another couple of weeks. I'll have to wait over a month until it gets dark outside haha. Thanks banjo I'll keep on looking.

It was when I first got the car almost a year ago :) I haven't gotten around messing with it since it has been my daily since my other car needs repairs. Also I've finnished my studies and started working so I have some money again! It's still the same 3K-H engine that came with the car originally. This problem only occoured after I changed the breaker points on my corolla.

Norsk tråd! Post din bilpark her :) Her e min 1979 KE30 som holder til i Lakselv :)

Hello. Once again I come to this forum to seek your wisdom! I've tried asking around but no one have any idea what the heck is going on. My car did not pass the inspections. The HC value was off the scale it read a value over 2000 when the limit is 400. As I understand HC is hydrocarbons and this means the car is running a little rich which I can already tell by the backfiring sometimes. I've taken the carburetor apart and replaced all the gaskets and given it a thorough clean. I could already feel it running better than before. I think it was leaking a little bit. I also ordered some ignition parts like: A new coil, distributor cap and rotor and new breaker points. They did not have any condensers so I have to source that elsewhere. Unluckily the distributor cap and rotor did not fit. I changed the breaker points on my corolla and set it up to the factory spec. A gap of 0.4 - 0.5 mm when it is at the top. Then I checked it with a dwell angle and got it pretty on point. I also checked the timing with a timing light. But after I changed the breaker points I noticed it was running very rough. It was coughing and spitting fuel out the exhaust. It's like the timing was way off. Then I noticed on my tacho that it was jumping all over the place. I have no idea why it does this. Is the high voltage jumping and shorting somewhere since it's always triggering the tacho? I've uploaded a video to youtube to demonstrate what happends.

Thank's for the awnser but the problem magically fixed itself..... The speed was showing the double amount and the odometer was counting km twice as fast, wierd issues....

Hello. I just noticed today that my KE30 is showing an unusually high speed on the speedo. Infact it's about double of what the GPS on my phone shows. Anyone come across this issue? The reduction for the cable must have skipped a gear, if it's possible at all? It still counts how far the car has driven. Anyone got any ideas? :D

I'm removing the diff off my old rolla. Anyone have the torque specifications for the diff, driveshaft, brakes and leafsprings?

The pictures are down. Do you still have them?

I'm trying to hunt down a timing chain kit, with spockets tensioner and chains. Can anyone guide me to a good website for this?

Start a kickstarter! :P I'd back it

What parts are a almost a must to change on any 3K when taking apart? :) I'm gonna order piston rings but should I get the block honed or is the piston rings enough for a cheap rebuild?

I just gotta show you this guys. I've changed the engine coolant and threw in a new thermostat because the old one was busted. It was constantly wide open, which will be a problem during winter. I also thought it would be a good idea to change the transmission fluid because It probably haven't been changed in 10 years. And that was my best choice on this car yet. What came out was horrifying. Light milky like fluid. You can barely call it oil by how thin it was. I still have nightmares about that sight and smell. I also installed a set of 4" speakers and covered the 6x4 boxes I made for the rear shelf. Anyways I've ordered a complete gasket kit for the engine and it looks like I need one for the transmission also now. I also bought new rear license plate lights because the old ones were rusted holes in.

Hey Thanks man, I must have missed this one on finn. I'll see how far the budget holds Maybe even that 1.6l from that carina :P

I'm getting suprisingly good compression, Getting around 9.8 bar (142psi) in average. I still want to take the engine apart just to get rid of my high oil usage and have the engine ready for a new cam and carb. Any ideas for a good cam and carb for a street driven but not daily driven rolla?

I'd like to do as much as possible myself I've checked prices with a couple engine builders in Norway and they charge around 1000-1200$ for just a small 4 cylinder, honed, valvework and cecking the crank. And that is excluding that I have to ship the parts. Then they will charge 75$/h hourly for everything else like cleaning and moving hte parts

Thanks again Banjo for clarifying things for me again. I thought you just took things apart and see how much wear it would have. Anyways where would I go to find new bearings and piston rings? Is ebay and other chinese websites really the best option here?

I've recently purchased a gasket kit for my 3K-H engine, originally I only wanted to replace the valve stem seals but then I thought why not go ahead and replace all the seals in the engine. While I have the engine apart why not replace the bearings. My question, what website(s) would one go to to find oversized bearings and piston rings? I've seen a lot of talk about them but where do people get tem?

Thanks for the response guys! So there are no places that sell parts for these? Bummer. I will continue my hunt for someone in Norway that can repair it! I'm going to see what the problem might be with the old one.

Thanks Banjo, I'm gonna start with the valve stem seals and see how that works out. If not I'm thinking it's time for the engine to come out as you said. New rings and gaskets everywhere, I'll see how my budget turns out, I went back studying so I'll see how much I can afford. Luckly I have access to a shop where I can work.

Hello I have a KE30 with a highlux brakebooster (I think). Previous owners used a sledge hammer and punched in the suspension wall to make it fit, very nasty install. Luckly it came with the original brake booster and I would like to rebuild it as they are hard to find. I'm hoping someone on this forum can guide me how! :)

Awesome! Just bought a 2 door KE30 79' myself! Welcome to the forums! I got service parts (filters and plugs) from my local Toyota dealer, a good place to start!

Ok so I haven't posted in about 3 weeks, I haven't gotten around doing much with the car yet. I've been busy starting studying again. I'm working on fixing up the drivers seat. The frame to the back was busted and one of the horizontal bars holding the back together had broken off, so I took out the seat and took off the cover for the seat. Welded the frame up and I'm going to fix the cracked leather on the side. While seats are out I've cleaned the carpet. The carpet was pretty nasty but no mold. Black oil looking spots everywhere. I've installed a tacto underneat the heater, done a oil change, new air and oil filters and new spark plugs. Also I've removed the old crappy pink window tint on the rear side windows! My rolla is pretty happy now! I'm going to change out the gearbox oil soon and install speakers in the front, 4" holes are allready cut out and wires are run so it'll be a easy job!