flamingheads

Price drop $6700 KE70 swaps also welcome

The time has come to sell. I'm going to be moving house soon and won't have a garage to house this baby in. The car is a 1992 NA Mazda MX5 with 196,000 kms She has: Bilstien suspension. Very stiff. Those Germans know their suspension Autotechnica steering wheel Aftermarket gear knob White 15" mag wheels with good tires Hood is in good condition with glass rear window Electric windows Remote central locking Immobiliser Power steering Air-con (needs a regas) The car was professionally resprayed with metallic flecked paint a couple of years ago. It looks great in the sun. The paint is perfect except for some tiny stone chips on the bumper and an unfortunate ding in the rear guard. There are also some little patches of rust showing inside the doors. Things that have been done recently / will be done before car is sold: Engine tune Wheel alignment Wheel balance Oil change There only bad point is an on and off rattle in the exhaust. I'm told it's the muffler needing to be replaced. Theis is the first and most fun of the MX5s, with very cool 80's style popup headlights. It handles great, is great fun to drive and looks awesome. The price is $7200 I'm not in a hurry to sell but I am a little negotiable on the price The car will be sold with a safety certificate and rego till April If you're interested PM me on here or give me a call on 0403241788 any time, I'm on holidays at the moment. I won't be responding to SMS's so either call or PM me. I'm in St Lucia, Brisbane I'm also after a clean KE70 and a good 5k engine to put in it so if you've got either one of those I might be interested in a swap. Thanks for having a look.

I'll get it started from my hazy memory of this stuff. KE70 & AE71 diffs are not the same. I'm not sure on the ratios. I believe the AE71 diff will bolt on without any mods but a quick measure will confirm this for you. Next, pretty sure tailshafts are different and not compatible so you'll need the AE71 shaft. Not sure how the struts will go. I think they're compatible but don't take my word. I know the info's all out there somewhere. Hopefully someone will come along and correct my mistakes. Good luck with it

I've got an ebay reclinable bucket seat as my drivers seat I'd highly reccomend. Got the cheap and easy way.

It lookds sweet. Sounds like we need to have a sunshine coast cruise to check out other rollas around.

Also some 5K sumps are too low for 4K engine mounts, which is what happened with my 5K conversion. I added a couple of washers between the body and the engine mount and that was enough that it stopped rubbing on the crossmember though. Compared to my 4K with a cam it's got more power but the webber isn't running properly and I need to do something about it. $300 engine + $200 of refresher parts = not worth it.

I had a T18 starter on my rwd 4AC. Not that it's the same for you but I'm pretty sure there are a few options. EDIT ae86driving club used to have a list with this stuff. Check them out.

Check out the FAQ/wiki for more info. Basically do up a 4K if you don't want to spend too much & are ok with not too much power. Get a 4AG if you can afford it and/or feel like you need more power than a 4K can reasonably give. I don't think 4AF motors are really worth it.

Do you take off the clip so it disconnects to that arm? I've done it ages ago and it wasn't hard, just fiddley. I don't really remember how it was done though.

A car like that is only worth something to a pretty hardcore enthusiast and I don't imagine there are too many of them around. It's a real case of only being worth what someone will pay. I would decide if I I was ever going to get around to restoring it and if not I'd take what he's offering. You don't want it sitting untouched in your yard in 6 months wishing you could find someone to buy it.

You could always post it up for $10,000 or so and see what kind of offers you got. Or you might be able to get a better deal if you traded it for something?

I think a beginners guide would be good for the new people to this forum/any forum/corollas. Just put all the basic information someone new to corollas needs and that gets asked every 2 weeks like corolla models, engines, engine specs, whatever, then a link to the FAQ from there. All the info is on here but it can be hard to find, especially for new people.

Yeah I thought that was you. There are two *E7*s up here that look pretty loved but I haven't seen them on here yet.

Since my last post I took out the dash and put the tacho in place properly where the clock used to be and a shift light where it used to say Toyota. The engine seems fine but doesn't rev past 5k revs under load. Anyway I went to lakeside to watch last weekend then on the evening run with AE86DC. Halfway along my gearbox started rattling, which reminded me I forgot to top up the gearbox oil. Luckily I had a spare box out of an earlier rolla but the shifter position was about 10 cm further forward so I swapped the back halves of the boxs over and they seemed to match up fine. Then I raged while putting it back together and decided to put some pics up.

Try searching other forums for sale threads to see what other people are getting for their looms. I'm sure I've seen them for sale somewhere. I couldn't find any on here though. But at a very rough guess I would think $200 - $300

What about having the filler inside the boot? It wouldn't be as cool but it would probably be the easiest way.

What are you replacing it with? Can you just screw it into whatever's going there instead? Have a look at this. I know it's not the same engine or drive but that's the kind of thing I would imagine doing.

How much does he want for it? How much do you want to pay for it? What condition is it in? Any mods, rego or rwc? $500 - $2000 depending on conditon and how much he wants to keep it and how much you want it?

Shhh. When you get your license you don't know the difference between FWD and RWD and you want massive power. Back then I would've gone for a AE82 4AGE hatch with some bling on it.

NSW Vehicle and passenger conditions for P1 and P2 licence holders: "Engine performance modifications that require an engineers' certificate (are prohibited)" That means no 4AG in a corolla if you want to be legal. Most other engine mods should be ok though. Early 80's common Australian corollas are KE70, AE71 or AE82. There's heaps of info around on all but basically all you need to know is -> AE71: RWD 4AC with 87hp Slanty front only Not many bits around to make your engine faster Easier to do 4AG engine swap (4AGE = 120/130hp, 4AGE 20valve = 160hp, 4AGZE = 165hp) KE70: RWD 4KC with 60hp Most are square front, later ones were slanty Lots of bits around to make your engine faster Easy to do 5KC engine swap (70hp?) AE82: FWD 4AC with 87hp OR 4AGE with 120HP Hatchback, liftback or sedan Lots of bits around to make your engine faster Personally I'd say AE71 if you don't want to mod your engine or plan to put a 4AG engine in later. OR KE70 if you want to mod your engine and / or like the square front. OR AE82 if you want power, don't mind FWD and like the hatch or liftback. Please correct any of my mistakes.

Ok fuel pump makes sense. If I get one off ebay is there anything I should look for in a pump? What psi do I need? Would something like this be ok?

The engine is a totally standard 5K with a downdraught weber and electronic ignition so no cam to play up. I found that the one vacume hose going to the carb was blocked and have fixed the problem. If that doesn't fix it I have a spare coil I'll try. I'm just making my tacho fit properly into my dash which is taking ages, then I'll take it out and see if I can work anything out.

I googled engine coffee table and there are lots of cool examples. I think a V8 would be cool but you could never move it so I'd probably go a 4 cylinder. That and it'd probably be way cheaper.

It's got electronic ignition so no points. I can put my foot down and it's fine up to a certain revs, then suddenly it cuts out and I have to back off. Maybe when I back off it closes the second choke then it gets the right mixture of fuel air again? The guy I bought the engine off was running the mechanical fuel pump so I thought it should have been fine. I added a fuel return line he had blocked off so maybe thats affecting it somehow? A dyno run would be nice but I'm very low on cash at the moment so it's not really an option for me. Thanks for the ideas so far. Some more things I thought could be wrong: What should change at high revs? Should it get more fuel or is there a vacume advance with electronic ignition that should advance the timing or something? Should there be a second jet of fuel when the throttle is opened more I could look at by taking off the air filter?

I've finally got my 5K running, done the timing, tuned it and it seems to be running totally fine but at 2 points in the revs it totally stops getting power so I get jerked forward in my seat. If I back off a bit I can keep accelleration I can rev higher then it does it again and I have to back off more. It's got a weber, I don't know what the specs are but the previous owner had it on the motor and said he rejetted it and everything and it runs fine at anything but hard accelleration. Also the sump is only just touching the crossmember, which makes the whole car vibrate and rattle. Is this normal? Should I try putting the 4K sump on instead?