flamingheads

There was a pretty comprehensive guide of what will swap over on ae86driving club. Unless it was on the old forum and got deleted. But spend more time searching there than I did or ask if you can't find it and you should get a good list. From memory though there was very little interiour that swapped from the *E7*'s.

There's a strong chance that I would. I'll get back to you by the weekend. If I forget give me a PM.

4AC for the cheap engine conversion. Otherwise start saving your pennies for a 4AG. There's a lot of information around about both so have a search and see what's right for you.

And after having a look at it again Evans first suggestion of the spacer would have worked as well and could give a bit more tension on the clutch if I want it later. Facepalm.

So everything has been going slowly and pretty much everytime something got fixed there would be some other problem to fix. When the engine went in it wouldn't start so it got towed to the mechanics. He said two pushrods had fallen out of place, probably from me taking the cam out. So $195 later I picked it up to drive home and the clutch didn't work. I drove it home without the clutch and on the way noticed everything was vibrating a lot. At home we couldn't figure out what was wrong with the clutch so I pulled off the gearbox and clutch, measured everything, it all seemed fine and realised that the clip at the top of the clutch cable needed to go outside the firewall instead of inside. So everything went back together and I had clutch. After a bit of looking around under the car I realised that for some reason the sump was just touching the crossmember so I loosened the engine mount bolts, jacked up the engine, tightened the mounts and vibration gone. Now it seems to be running rich and has two big flat spots so tomorrow I'll borrow a timing light, check the timing and hopefully figure out how to tune the webber, if it needs that. Also going to the electronic iginition the tacho seems to be working properly and I'll have to take out the instrument cluster and switch the tacho back to 4, where I assume the revs will be right. And here are some celebratory pictures to spice things up: Can you see the where the $950 or so has gone into swapping in the 5k? Yeah me either...

So after pulling off the gearbox and clutch, measuring everything and lots of time thinking realised it was like what blzbub suggested, the clutch cable clip had gone inside the firewall instead of outside. Problem solved. Thanks for the suggestions anyway. Turns out it was just my stupidness.

Only back and forth. When I pulled the box off everything seemed to be in its place.

They all seem to be the same but my only idea at the moment is to put all the original stuff baack on and see if that works. Unless there's some difference between the 5k and 4k and they need different clutches or something?

I could move the clutch fork all the way backwards and forwards with my pinky. I don't think it was putting any pressure on the pressure plate at all. I remember pulling the cable off and needing a lever to pull the clutch fork enough to get the cable off.

I don't think it could be the clutch cable though because the clutch arm doesn't seem to put any pressure on the pressure plate when you move it back and forwards. Also it's the same cable and gearbox and only the engine has been swapped.

I recently did and engine swap but the clutch arm was loose and could be moved in and out with very little pressure like the thrust bearing wasn't hitting the pressure plate or something. The clutch cable was moving but not putting any pressure on the arm either. I thought I must have put something back together wrong so I pulled out the gearbox. The car is a KE70 I recently swapped the 4K for the 5K. It's got the original K50, a new pressure and clutch plate, which seem to be a different design but the same measurements as the original. Also a new thrust bearing and a spare flywheel I had. The thrust bearing seems to be properly in place and being moved by the arm, the clutch seemed to be all properly aligned. Is there anything else that could have changed or that I could have done wrong? Thanks in advance.

Trev, my thoughts are something like if someone is into 4WDing and they're telling me about how great their car is at 4WDing then I say, well my cars faster than yours they will say something like I don't care. My car does what I want it to do and I'm happy any compromises it has. Same as if you say your bike is faster but I say my car is safer and more practical, I'm sure you'd say you don't care. I think the saying "it's like comparing apples with oranges" applys here. Plus it's whatever you're in at the time. You can't say, well I'm in my crappy daily now but if I was in my uber fast and impractical track car I'd whip you into the ground.

You can't compare cars to bikes.

My defence is always the twistys, which is what I like the rolla for. I had a friend with a saab saying how his car could beat mine in any race. I took him for a drive on the twisties and he poo'd himself.

I picked up the engine mount, eventually got everything connected, filled up oil, started filling up the water and the water pump seems to be leaking badly. AAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGHHHHHH!!!!

I just did a google, clicked on the most likely looking links and found this and this. Also any decent parts store should be able to tell you what plugs you need.

Sorry I was thinking of this. I knew it was something about heads with big something on here somewhere. Next time I'll check first.

Fair enough. But people do get done for having no back seat if the car isnt mod plated for it so it's something I'd want to be sure of.

Yeah getting the new engine mount tomorrow. I should really get two but I can't make myself pay another $50 for something I might not need. But engine is all in and just need to connect up the webber and hopefully she'll be starting tomorrow.

Engine swap is happening slowly. Mostly because of my laziness. But I love being able to go to the local parts shop and them having what I need on the shelf for cheap. So different to trying to buy parts for a '73 celica. Anyway I got the 4k out and decided I needed a new clutch. Got that and replaced some gaskets and seals on the 5K. All the new bits are on the 5K, got it hanging over the engine bay and noticed one of the engine mount rubbers is cracked. So I'm waiting a call back about engine mount pricing. edit: $50 new. Pick it up tomorrow or look for a second hand on? Decisions...

1) Knowledge Base/FAQ 2) Search 3) Google 4) ??? 5) Profit?

Before the flaming begins read this.

Yeah I'd talk to department of trasport about it first. But if it was me and I had a choice I'd see how much I used the back doors first. If you take the handles off and want to get in there every second day you'll be hating yourself for shaving them.

I had some of that but it couldn't do around the raised bits and I was feeling lazy. I guess I could've used wet and dry paper for the fiddly bits but I was feeling lazy. The cut and polish did a pretty good job of taking the worst of the scratches out though.

Things have gotten in the way of good old fashioned mechanics lately so here are some shiny bits. I used a wire brush on drill to do the hard bit of the polishing then finished up with cut and polish then some mag cleaner. And a shinyd and unshinyd inlet manifold -> I've got the 5k together and hopefully it'll be going in tomorrow. See how things go.