philbey

You shouldn't necessarily need long hex nuts, I had TRX rims and a cross bar wheel brace fitted in the counterbore no worries.

A couple of the boilermakers at work reckon the WIA gear is good. The Kemppi though - those things are the ducks nuts, if you have 1500 bucks to spend!! Cool. (ticketed structural welder doing work with a kempi 10 running gasless! Crazy)

Yeh I know, I'm keen to build an A Model like that, roof insert and all! I've got the first bit - the chassis!!

Just give it a shot. Read taz's thread, slap one together, when you put a rod through the block, either put another one in and do it again or have a 4k/5k on standby to drop that in instead!

Haha, man I thought exploding HB was a thing of my Dads generation, I've never had a problem. Haven't done a Ginger beer though. If you only ran 1/3 a tsp then you must have bottled before fermentation was complete. I dunno how cold it gets in Perth, but if you are getting down to mid-low teens, then you'll most likely need more than 9 days fermentation. Cold Wort temperature will really slow the brew process right down. I've left beer in the fermenter for 6 weeks with no issues. Once the process has begun, you can leave it for ages. If you're not sure, get a hydrometer and you can measure alcohol content to determine if its good. Also, for colder weather, get a Lager yeast instead of an Ale yeast, it will run at lower temps much better. Most kit yeasts are a hybrid or ale yeast. I'm about to brew up a nice tasty Lager for the summer - full malt baby here we come! Also - those bundy bottles are pretty thin, try chase up some really old thick Longnecks. Only other Exploding Beer experience i've heard of was when my mate's mum told him heat would sterilise the bottles - pity it messed up the temper of the glass too! BOOM! haha.

Yeh alkaline/caustic substances will eat Aluminium (shouldn't call it Alloy - Steel is an alloy too!) I'm not sure what the gasket remover was, It must be aluminium compatible because of the number of aluminium blocks/heads out there. Do a test patch with whatever stripper you use, it'll be fine!

damn, that sucks not having the linkages facing each other, make it just that shade more difficult to balance....

there's an adaptor plate on Ebay to suit at the moment for 30 bucks. look for Gem Parts australia, they always sell them.

Whack a removable roof insert in like a model a rod~! READ ME

No kidding, I think you'll find thats a fairly serious offence to point guns at people and threaten them. Seriously, make an anonymous phone call to the cops, be staright up about it all and see what they say. That sort of hardcore vigilante action is just not on. A dude I knew ages ago had his car rammed by 2 vigilantes in 4wd's because they were mistaken for some regular bong fiends that park there. That was down in Mitcham.

Gasket Remover. Usually used to get crusty head gasket of heads and blocks, but I used it with great sucess to get a stack of oil and grime off a rocker cover the other day.

You'll need a roadworthy certificate from a Vicroads Authorised inspector. It'll cost you ~40 bucks for the inspection, then they'll give you a list of items to rectify. If there are rust holes I believe they usually demand it's repaired. cut it bog it and spray it with a bad colour match. You used to be able to get through some roadworthy guys if you tell them you've bought the car (not selling it). Get chatty with them, you might be right, but dodgy roadies have been harder to come by in recent years. tp.

Painted the block last night. Looks pretty good. I went with a Dark ford blue, there wasn't a great selection at the shop and the ford blue looks pretty good. I'll get some pics once I get the topcoat on (Damn cold weather, not ideal for painting!) I'm thinking of painting the rocker cover same colour as well - I'm going to paint one and polish the other and make my decision. Compression ratio still looks dastardly high (ie - 13:1). I'll be on the phone to the engine builders tomorrow to see what they say. Mahle pistons I noticed too. Same as my porsche's pistons haha.

you might not rev the shit out of it but bet's on that you'll be dropping skids everywhere! Thats what'll stress your bolts haha. The reason people change out the flywheel bolts is often because they will plastically deform when you torque them up (designed that way). I dunno if a K series bolt would be in that basket though, torque setting probably isnt that high....? I'll have a read.

If you've seen them in car mags recently, they're almost certainly a clear coated job with a flattener. Even the traditional rod scene is uses this method a lot, as opposed to the authenticity of an actual primer paint job.

Loupee, those high comp pistons you got, are they about 3.1 mm circular dish instead of the 8mm D shaped dish? I just scored a set, and the dish on them is significantly smaller than the D shaped ones.... I'm concerned about my comp ratio being too high haha! PS - tough KE, are those wantanabe's 4x110? Tom

Should be able to get a good runner for 500 bucks or less. I've paid 100 each for the 2 that I own, they were in pieces though. Tom.

Do you want matte, or do you want a satin finish - there's a difference. All the cars you see with good "matte" finishes are a regular base coat, then you add a flattener to the clear coat. all the bad, $50 buck enamel "flat" jobs are just bad painting.

I beg to differ! Click!

sick of it already? I haven't read the sale thread....yet.

It'll hold value much better if you keep it fairly stock as well. Some pics I took before you bought it:

Trav whats cracking. I been meaning to tell you to get some pics up on this site. Drop a 4K in at least. There's a couple around, I can hook you up with, let me get the feelers out. The reason no one saw it advertised it never got advertised. Bloke at work was telling me about it, I told him to call me if he ever wanted to sell it. His mum owned it from new, so trav is a legit 2nd owner. It is in top nick, I nearly bought it for that reason, but hooked Trav up with it. It had a new topcoat (same colour) put on it 15 years ago, and apart from one small ding, minor pitting on the chrome, and the fact that someone pilfered the SE badges of the quarters, the body is unreal. Front seats are a bit torn and the dash is cracked and thats about it. Don't butcher it man. And remember who gets first dibs on it when you get bored of it haha. Tom.

Great colour. Judging by the close angle shot, you spent good coin on getting this baby straight as! Just needs that height adjusted!

Try one of these guys.... Clicky

Don't question the dwarf-man, he has a valid point. Spelling and grammar is on a rapid decline on this site and it's good to see the standards being upheld. As for the history of your car, where did you buy it, who from, and do you know if the previous owner was a member of the forum? Post a link to your gallery if you want people to take a look otherwise you'll get no response.