styler

you will need ta22 mounts like ke30king said, from rarespares.com.au or americanautorubber.com.au or possibly repco.com.au the engine can bolt in but it will be too far back and on a slight tilt. yeah look at jonnys site for how to modify it correctly. and for the clutch, its most common to use a ta22 manual pedal box and use the clutch pedal section on the corolla pedal box, weld on i would imagine. or as above modify the corolla pedal box - havent seen that one before!

irokin's on the money... c budge, dude you crack me up! :P "can i efi a 3t?" thread - NFI.... anyway think about this post: its a hydraulic clutch system as opposed to a cable clutch system. this means that it is a fluid system and not a mechanical system. to move fluid with force you need a cylinder system - master and slave. and a connecting line from one to the other obviously. now the master is a small bore long stroke, this means that when force is applied it moves a lot of distance with an small amount of force. the slave on the other hand is a big bore short stroke - just the opposite, it moves a small distance with a lot of force. this allows a small force to be applied over a long distance at the master end to create a large force over a small distance on the slave end. so you can see how the hydraulic system works now. master and slave work together as a matched set, distances and forces, as well as the fittings and mounting points and geometry. so your slave cylinder has a matching master cylinder which has been said in this thread. some people who know a lot about cars will change master or slave cylinders to their advantage but you need to know what you are doing. and older cars often share common components like master or slave cylinders too, for what its worth. but you just need the correct clutch master cylinder and it will work fine.

3t with t50 i imagine?, i have never heard of a t55? read the 3tgte post, the blocks are the same so most of the same conversion techniques apply. its a start...

well you can efi or carb basically any petrol motor, its just a fuel mixture delivery system. diesel is another story though. I'm sure there are some exceptions as always but generally it holds true. 3t naturally aspirated series of motors are all carb as far as i know 13t, 3t, 3tc. now if you were to fit a later model block with the newer models efi system eg - 2tg series of motors then it most likely would be a bolt on fit. however i don't think 3t series came with efi except for the 3tgte which is turbo and i imagine unsuitable for naturally aspirated induction. also you would be paying $500 just for the harness, plus more for manifolds anyway, thats if you don't need custom manifolds which cost a lot more. then i doubt the computer would run it very well anyway if at all. but on a positive note the 3t motor to most people is a boat anchor, until you stumble across the crazy Puerto Ricans and there insane 3tc turbo converted turbo 600hp drag cars. and there are many well priced parts avaliable for the motor as well. but back down to earth even an aftermarket computer, manifolds, wiring, injectors and tuning will set you back a few grand as you can't just bolt on a later model efi system - ie all of the above all OEM and tuned etc... and picked up second hand for 400 bucks. someone may know another efi system from another engine that can be easily converted but i have never heard of one. now the 3t is poor is stock form as it is 1.8L pushrod 8 valve crossflow engine, but as a converted turbo motor, it is a screamer if done right with 8 to 30 grand cash. crossflow is a good feature by the way! as opposed to non crossflow (google it) on another note it is a reasonable performance increase for most small cars as they are light and come out with small engines from factory ie ke corolla's. just don't expect to be pulling 12 second passes with it. one other option is to builda 3tg hybrid using a 2tg twincam head on the 3tc block ( NOTE - this requires an ENTIRE 2tg long motor minus the bottom block, crank and pistons. AND blocking of oil holes by turning bearings around) OR another method with the same results is : fit the 3t crank AND pistons into a LATER - ie 2tgeu block which is the same as the 3tc block. now the 2tg series of motors comes in efi - the 2tgeu and if you use the 2tgteu block it is the same as the 3t block, so just fit the 3t crank and 3t pistons. you may be able to fit a 2tgeu efi system to a complete 3t motor but whether it will work or not, is the question... and that means the manifolds will bolt on etc etc which means it all fits, BUT the computer may not be able to RUN the motor as it has a different head flow and cam setup/profile and ignition setup etc etc.

the disc brake models don't run a booster, whoever is doing the mod certification may think the ke20/25 disc models ran boosters but they don't as far as i know. only ke30 onward corollas run boosters.

"corolla ute - max load 150kg" lol

dude......... its a lot of work even if you know a substantial amount about cars, its not just a weekend job with a friend helping out to put in 2 neons and a gearknob. thats what you are making this 3tgte conversion sound like. however in all your eagerness in sure i can educate you as i was long time planning a 3tgte into a ke25 and have spent a while getting all the gear and working the conversion out. a 3tgte into an old rolla is great as you do the most beneficial conversion, the capacity/weight category engine conversion. the max size turbo engine you can fit into one of these cars doing this method (which also requires safety upgrades such as brakes etc) is about a 1900cc engine according to the weights list of toyota corollas in the book. now hardly any turbo engines are 1900cc and so the closest engine you can fit is the 1.8 3tgte or 1.8 ca18det. the 3tgte is almost a bolt in fit which is great but it fits better if mounted properly. the gearbox can be a t50 which will bolt in or a w55 which came with most 3tgte's. the 3tgte is easier to put in compared to the ca18det. however..... that sounds all sweet and the information you are looking for is below, these are the factors you have to consider that everyone has been trying to tell you! 1st the car - good choice of car:) 2nd your 1st car turbo rocket - bad choice 3rd 3tgte - expensive, expensive parts $150!!! for a dizzy rotor!!! pistons are cast, will hold 12psi with std ecu will hold 14psi well tuned need forged for 15psi+ ecu is ancient in technology, but some people have made it work well or replace with delco, tuning is expensive for delco though ct26 turbo from 7mgte supra is easily adapted to fit exhaust manifold is a bad design only custom avaliable as far as i know - about $400 - $800 unless a 3tc one is avaliable its bolt in with t series engine mounts, under average fit. bolt in with crossmember mounts cut and moved slightly - good fit. gearbox t50 wont last too long unless babied gearbox w55 will last much better, a bellhousing for a 3tgte goes for a few hundred bucks. a gearbox and housing is rare and goes for more as you can imagine. diff wont last unless you granny around town. stronger diffs used are the following : r31 diff/ falcon borg warner diff/ toyota g series (hilux is a g series) / toyota f series/ toyota t series / alfa/ volvo/ fiat 124... expect $800 - $3000 to convert it. with that much power you need a BIG brake upgrade and its a legal requirement, BIG brake = big rotors, big calipers, lines, mounting plates... = big $$ custom exhaust few hundred $, custom dump pipe too. may use original ecu, which purchased seperately if you only bought the long motor, is about $500 second hand aftermarket ecu + wiring + sensors = $1500 to get someone to wire it up = $600 to get someone to tune it = $500 - $2000 oversize forged pistons $900 delivered, $400 fitted gaskets - hell expensive motor manual for it = non - existant, except in japanese, but it is very similar to the 2tg so the 2tg manual can be used for quite a lot of the specs needed. its a twin spark which it more hassle than its worth, damn twin spark nonsense!!! it does share a select few common parts with the t series motors so some menial parts may be cheap. custom driveshaft or mod the original one body work - rust cut / weld new metal, panelbeat, paint $1000 - $10000 new wheels/tyres?, seats front?, retrim rears?, new carpet?, steering wheel? etc hydraulic clutch, master, slave, pedal box custom mod to suit = $300 mod plate / engineer approved= $400? I'm not sure on mod plate costs now who is doing all this work? that is my question. you if you are technically minded = 6 months part time/casual workshop = $3000 at least just for labour you would need a lot of knowledge, mechanical skills and tools to do as much as you could of the above not to mention patience and to double the original price you thought the project was gonna cost (it always turns out to cost double lol). and then pay workshops to do stuff you can't, balance components and bore the block etc... so now you may understand why you need to think about this conversion more on another note .......young driver, 1st car turbo beast, never ever ever get insurance, wild turbo rolla on the road! thats just a recipe for disaster! a much better idea: step 1 get a awesome ke30, look around a lot, pay a few hundred more for a spectacular one rather than $300 for a dented rust bucket that isnt worth anything. to fix a few dents and cut rust will cost way more than paying a few hundred extra step 2 cut out rust, beat, paint, get mechanicals A1. step 3 suspension, wheels, carpet, seats. step 3 2tg step 4 work the 2tg or do a turbo conversion

i have used washing up liquid, washing powder, cleaning detergent etc but nothing works like PROTECTA PINK GRIT!! has grains that rub off grease, cuts through grime and has moisturising stuff that keeps the hands supple lol...

Rust, the favourite find of the auto enthusiast :P just doing the chassis of my ke25 and i have found some here and there much to my amusement lol... anyway any diy/mechanical person probably has come across their fair share of it and I'm interested to know how people get rid of it. depending how severe it is, seems rust can be sanded, chemical converted, blasted, ground down to bare metal, needle scalled, chemically removed, electro bath removal, cut out and rewelded. if it can't be cut out and rewelded such as a component or area that would be difficult to replace, and isnt very severe, then what does everyone recommend out of the other methods?

lol... if i wanted it right first time i would have bought an atom! The Atom Car well i know all about diffs from t series to h190 to f series to h series to dana to fiat 124 to mazda b1600.... (gotta do a writeup) but it costs a fair bit as these things do.... i have had a white ke30 2dr with 2L 3tg worked hybrid (about 150hp), and never busted the diff! not even locked! previous owners have gone through 8 diffs in a few years! so my theory is you can push a car but don't thrash it and stress out all the driveline components - burnouts, donuts, dumping clutch etc and the diff will last a while. i have had plenty of smoke from take off spin but never "wound it up to 8000rpm and dumped it". usually the torque will break the diff and not so much from the power of a motor. i mean i really gave this thing a workout at times, racing about... on the raceway of course... and it ran a high 15 easily on 185's lol. prolly a few of the westside guys have seen it as it had many owners this side of the city. so i want a borg for the moment until project is running and funds are up again for a diff conversion.

hmmm this is what I'm looking for! may have to email the guy ke30 with ke70 diff centre

been looking around and can't seem to find out if some ke20's come out with the borg diff? because i was going to change to a 120y diff like pauls 3tgte red rocket, ie a 6inch borg warner that pretty much bolts in. but if i can get one from a ke20 it will be 100% bolt in... thats until i have to upgrade, damn you 3tgte!

someone must know about the ke borg warners! will the 6.38 inch centre out a ke70 borg warner fit a 6.0 inch ke55/ke35 borg warner? :D

banjo diff (live axle assembly) - ke20, ke25, ke30 front loading, easy changing, width of housing varies between models 1320mm ke20/25 , 1370mm ke30 diff centre 5.7, 6 inch interchangable centres borg warner diff (live axle assembly) - ke35, ke55, ke70 rear loading, harder to change, length varies between models ??? mm ke35, ???mm ke55, ???mm ke70, mount types vary (coil, leaf) diff centre 6, 6.38inch now the question! can the borg warner centre out a ke70 - 6.38inch fit into a ke35 / ke55 housing?

delete please, moved to general discussion

weighbridge is the most accurate as even two cars of the same model will vary slightly because of extras, engine, tyres or whatever... but no matter what the weighbridge says there is an offical weight which is the heaviest version of the model ie the auto version (if applicable) and those weights are in the qld light vehicles modification book. this weight determines what motor you may put in according to the engine capacity / vehicle weight rule you can also do a recognised swap but these are usually a small increase in capacity and require only minor other upgrades to comply (if upgrades are applicable) i'll post up the weights sometime...

you could do them seperately and put the flares and skirts on afterwards, that way there is no chance of cracking paint but there will be lines and you also have to get the joins really neat. i have also seen people do them seperately, no neat joins required and then put a rubber strip in between that tapers out flush to each panel in either black or colour to match (they may have painted the rubber?). or you can try fill it, bog may work, acrylic gap filler may be more flexible and is paintable.

i have played with quite a few t series motors, the k motors i keep stock for daily driving. what i would recommend for naturally aspirated would be the hybrid, ie a 3tg: a 2tg with twin sidedrafts, 3t crank, elec dizzy, early head for bigger cams and if you like bore it out. most heads have the large valves and circular (non kidney) combustion chamber, only the later models don't as far as i can remember. for forced induction the 3tgte would be the go with forgies, aftermarket management, overbore and a ct26 single entry turbo from a old 3L supra with an intercooler. if you stick with the k series you can make a tidy little motor that will pull hard in a rolla, and have good fuel economy. it will make decent power but not great due to the design: pushrod, wedge combustion chamber 2 valve non crossflow head and small capacity. these motors are cheap and plentiful and easy to modify though. and pretty indestructable too!

i reckon 15's are the biggest practical wheel for a old rolla, comfort, tyre costs and peformance are a few aspects i can think of... long live the hotwires!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

lol 23 diffs! i also think you could upgrade, i mean like an hour labour every diff change plus oil and towing the car home every time, especially if you were on your way somewhere... i have had mechanical problems driving around and its :jamie: so damn annoying :paw:

as has been mentioned, its a case of having a full chassis which allows a bigger capacity, thats why small lightweight utes are used, they have a full chassis and are allowed the bigger motors. some older mazda's have been given some rotary engine swap approvals due to them being mazda's and an easy conversion, even though the same car would not qualify under the weight/capacity rule. if you can get it engineered it can be done, but it costs a lot, ie like jamie said by submitting an indepently constructed vehicle. i would never drive an illegal vehicle, from crashing into a bmw to killing people in accidents... not being covered is pretty stupid.

i did full research into gauges a while back... autospeed also did a 3 part series on gauge testing which i found useful. i found there were 4 types: 1 - cheap / copy / bling bling 2 - oem / standard / plain 3 - more aftermarket 4 - dorifto / super precise / racing Types: 1 - cheap / copy / bling bling ones might work ok, but i doubt it. and the fitting kits were crap, often only mechanical type gauge too. the faces on the gauges were too intense with colours and funky fonts, so were hard to read. fake gauges are the worst though, having crap accuracy of course. some cheap bling bling "type r" gauges are so poorly made you will roll around in tears checking out the construction. often not full faced or full range either. 2 - oem / standard / plain ones were the best overall, they had mechanical or electrical options, easy to read with option of white / silver / black face, fonts were well sized, needle was good, most were full faced and full range if possible / practicle. the kits were quality too. from tests it was found they were pretty accurate or very accurate. also they came in series, ie sports series of 30 matching gauges so your picked gauges would form a set. you can also buy spare fitting kits seperately quite cheaply and adapting fittings for your car. one other note was in some gauges the illumination light could be changed with coloured bulb covers or replaced easily if it blows. 3 - more aftermarket ones were between oem/ standard/ plain and dorifto / super precise / racing gauges. they could be of either quality and either price, autometer were one of the better brands. 4 - dorifto / super precise / racing gauges were full on quality and most were really accurate but prices are insane, even for spare fitting kits or adapters. and the gauges sometimes arent part of a series either. some were water filled and had ultra responsive electric control modules with data recording etc etc... Brands: 1 - cheap / copy / bling bling: avoid ebay, type r, chromed plastic, super-, ultra-, or mega- this or that, even some autoshops sell rebadged crap. 2 - oem / standard / plain: the best of the lot vdo make loads of oem gauges so they are accurate and well priced, note you often have to buy a fitting kit seperately. most look very oem which may not appeal to everyone. loads of types avaliable and accessories. speco have more of a sporty range with fittting kits included, good quality and spare parts too. speco have a 2 inch range too and come up with new products every now and again. pricol/dipricol are also oem and much the same as vdo, i have seen around for sale in a few places, pricol is the standard gauge, dipricol does more specialized ones. pricol have one big distributor is oz i think. only the more plain gauges i think. 3 - more aftermarket: autometer is almost a standard, so many people swear by them, they make a lot of gauges and they are definately are quality but a little pricey, meant to be pretty accurate. autogauge is a devision of autometer and make more budget priced gauges, seem the be pretty reasonable as far as i can tell. splitfire seems to get bad reviews and they are expensive so can't say much for them. 4 - doroifto / super precise / racing: count your limbs, thats how many you can buy =) - apexi, blitz, hks etc i settled on a basic speco range for one of my cars and my other car had basic autometer gauges when i bought it.

go the volleys! don't be knocking them! =)

man you guys are messy! i use latex gloves and let the stripper do all the work, then scrape it off and put more on if needed. lol can't say i have had it in the crack of my toes though! yeah dropsheet is a great idea :D

yeah I'm getting a gun from trade tools impact wrench